ACC Retrofit Working (module good), but Not Working (no ACC)

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My bad - changed byte 26 to "50".
 
   #22  

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Found the excel file I made for the swap.

For Golf this is not 100% as it's missing electronic parking brake pins. Our Leon is 2013 and it did not have EPB yet at that time :)
I've shared the file through Google drive :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDG9Ot0kM6RrnV2tTAYadhldjyvOLZzW/view?usp=sharing

This looks great, downtime! Thank you very much for compiling this.

Just to be sure I understand the process: Both ABS modules make use of 20 pins; the harness that is in my car only has 38 pins (to match the 38 pins on my stock ABS module), whereas my new ABS module has 46 pins - correct?

So, what needs to happen is that I need to move the wire on my 38-pin harness and to the position that corresponds to proper position for the 48-pin module.

So, for example: My car will be sending 12V/7.5A on wire SB17 down pin 2. But I have to move that to position 31 to match up with my new ABS module

...unless I'm misunderstanding, and in addition to the actual ABS module itself, i need the whole connector that slides into/onto the ABS (?).
 
   #23  

downtime

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Yes. ESPMK100 uses 38pin connector, IPB uses 46pin.

In addition to make things difficult, the actual pins that go into the connector are also different. So you need to replace the pins as well.
 
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   #24  

darkchina811

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the 46pin connector part number is 8V0 998 623, and the sealing pin for unpopulated positions will be 5Q0 971 904 (you can also use silicone sealant...).
 
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I used silicone sealant. Works wonders ��
 
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   #26  

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So, do you pop the pin out of the old housing? Or do you simply not bother and instead, just cut the wire and add the repair wire onto that end?

How did you guys join the repair wire to existing wiring? Solder? Twist-and-shrink-wrap? Butt connectors like these?
http://www.4130-products.com/index.html
 
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No butt connectors. They won’t work for longer period.

Do not cut the ABS connector wire. Dismantle the connector and cut the wires inside the connector. This leaves you enough slack on the wire to make sure the length is good for the new connector as well.

I soldered the new wires with correct connectors and used heat shrinks to make the connections water tight. Another option is to use these : https://www.electriduct.com/Heat-Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Terminators.html

Those are really good as they make fully waterproof connection.
 
   #28  

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No butt connectors. They won’t work for longer period.
The correct butt connectors are fine. The key is that they must seal the crimp against moisture, which the ones two posts up do when properly applied with a heat gun.

Solder is a "better" connection electrically, but the problem with solder is that it flows into the stranded wire and makes it brittle right at the joint. Thus it becomes critical that a soldered connection has good mechanical support. Soldered connections are generally not approved of as a repair by automotive OEMs, and an aviation inspector would have a heart attack if he found wiring repairs or modifications that were soldered.

-Uwe-
 
   #29  

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For the kids following along at home, the connector (that plugs in to the new ABS module) part number quoted above has been superseded by the following part number:
4M0 998 046.
 
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   #30  

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The correct butt connectors are fine. The key is that they must seal the crimp against moisture, which the ones two posts up do when properly applied with a heat gun.
-Uwe-
Is the proper crimp connector the red one - size 20-22AWG?
 
   #31  

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Alright - I've got all of the parts assembled: repair wires, ABS connector, ABS housing.
(With a TDI, I also discovered that I have to remove the front exhaust pipe to get better access to the ABS module - at least I think that's the reasoning (?))
(Edit: Indeed - with the TDI's DPF basically blocking the path of the ABS module forward and up, there's no way it's coming out the top; going to have to remove the ABS module from below.)


Anyway, just before I jump into things, please let me know if this is the proper order of operations and any clarifications to the steps necessary.
1. Get to the ABS module - looks like I don't have to remove anything apart from the exhaust pipe (according to repair manual).
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal
3. Disconnect / unplug ABS connector
4. Disconnect brake lines
5. Remove ABS module
6. Install new ABS module; reattach brake lines
7. Cut the wiring on ABS connector - how long should I leave that? Cut close to connector? The repair wires will provide a LOT of extra wire length
8. Attach repair wires to existing wiring
9. Feed repair wires into appropriate slots of new ABS connector
10. Connect new connector to new ABS module
11. Pump brake bleeder up to 29psi and bleed brake system
(my "new-to-me" unit did not come with plugs in it, so I'm assuming there's plenty of air in the ABS unit; is there an ABS bleed procedure in VCDS for these cars, same as there is for the Mk4 cars?)
12. Button everything back up, code the ABS and other modules, and....hope for the best. :D

What am I overlooking? Any tips on how to best accomplish the re-wiring (that's the things that has me the most trepidatious).
 
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   #32  

downtime

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Pretty much like that. One thing I would do differently as I did. Point 7. I would not cut the wire completely. I would do it again so that dismantle the connector and cut and reattach one by one. Makes it much easier to follow what you’re doing.

Also you need to replace one 20Amp fuse to 40Amp fuse in the fusebox.

Edit :

Fuse SB1 needs to be upgraded to 40A. It is now 20A with ESP MK100.
 
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   #33  

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Thanks for the tip on the fuse.

Pulling back the tape and looking at the wiring, looks like I'm missing a couple (?!).
Here's what I've been able to discern:


1 - Stays same (DO NOT CUT)

4-5: Out of picture (green & black) - FR wheel sensor
6-7 (blue/red & grey/red): RL wheel sensor
8-9 (brown & black): FL wheel sensor
10-11 (blue and grey): RR wheel sensor

42 - (orange/blue): CAN-H
43 - (orange/brown): CAN-L

14 (big brown) DO NOT CUT: Ground
Also, tap this and run to #46 for another ground

30(?) (Big red/white) DO NOT CUT: SB21
31 (Red/black): SB17

35 (Violet/black): BCM T73a

From your pinout, it looks like my car does not have G294 - as I do not have brown, black, blue wires for Brake Servo (is that the electronic parking brake perhaps?)
 
   #34  

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From your pinout, it looks like my car does not have G294 - as I do not have brown, black, blue wires for Brake Servo (is that the electronic parking brake perhaps?)
Nope, I don't have electronic parking brake either.

I would suggest that you buy 1 hour rights to VW Erwin and download schematics for your car. NAR models might have some differences in the wiring colors.

Edit :

Ahaa, you have a diesel. I have gasoline. I think diesels have different way to check if the car has stopped or not. Gasoline uses brake servo info and if I remember correctly diesels use vacuum pump or something like that.
 
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Damn - I had downloaded EVERYTHING I could find from erWin when I first bought the car, but can't find the wiring diagrams. :(

So - downloaded that now. From what I can see, I'm missing a "G476" wire - but that's a clutch position sensor...and given that I have a DSG, that would be expected. :D

Question on the additional big ground wire (T46/14 + T46/46): Did you just run an additional 4mm wire and then splice them together? Where? Does it matter?
 
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Damn - I had downloaded EVERYTHING I could find from erWin when I first bought the car, but can't find the wiring diagrams. :(

So - downloaded that now. From what I can see, I'm missing a "G476" wire - but that's a clutch position sensor...and given that I have a DSG, that would be expected. :D

Question on the additional big ground wire (T46/14 + T46/46): Did you just run an additional 4mm wire and then splice them together? Where? Does it matter?
Good! Now you are fully armed and ready to take battle with the abs :)

And to your question. Yes I just added another thicker brown wire and I did the splice inside ABS connector just to keep the wires as short as possible.

My installation has lasted for 2 years in extreme Finnish conditions :)

Trust me, the change is not that bad, the coding in my case was the nightmare. But eventually got around with that as well :)
 
   #37  

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Well, you weren't working on a TDI - which has a DPF perfectly situated so that getting at the ABS module is maddeningly difficult. Put it this way: It took three different tools and close to 10minutes for me to be able to get the connector disconnected. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

So yeah - this is going to be fun. :banghead:

But I've got three more days of cool, clear weather, so why not? :D
 
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Well, you weren't working on a TDI - which has a DPF perfectly situated so that getting at the ABS module is maddeningly difficult. Put it this way: It took three different tools and close to 10minutes for me to be able to get the connector disconnected. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

So yeah - this is going to be fun. :banghead:

But I've got three more days of cool, clear weather, so why not? :D
You're right, I didn't :) There are some things that make it a tad more difficult. But still, swapping the unit won't be any harder when you get to it. But working with the connector will be fun for sure in such a tight place :)
 
   #39  

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Just to wrap this up and put a bow on it, I got it all working...(at about 11:45pm the other night...with no other cars out on the roads to show up on my instrument cluster :mad:)


I owe much MUCH thanks to downtime - I was able to get the coding at least somewhat there, but without his help, I'm sure I'd still fighting my way through getting rid of errors.

Lots of details on the process in a thread I created over at TDIclub.

Much thanks to everyone here who helped out on this - such a great community!
 
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