2006 A3 can't program remotes

[danix]

Tried again. Removed batteries trying each one at a time.
Checked battery voltage again - each had 3.02v. New batteries have 3.3v so I used those. Same results.

 

[danix]

Went to a VW/Audi event yesterday where I observed a guy doing coding on a car for someone who was having an issue doing it himself. His friend remarked "if this guy can't fix it, no one can". Sure enough, about 10 mins later, he had indeed solved the problem for the other guy. I introduced myself, explained the key mismatch situation and he said "have you taken it into the shop?" I told him no, not yet. He said that he's an ex-dealer tech (or something) and that only the dealer can fix stuff like this, something about a token exchange that isn't implemented in VCDS or other aftermarket tools.
I'm sure Uwe will have an opinion about that (oh, he was also using a tool called OBD-eleven and said that it's more advanced than VCDS although the latest beta makes them about even). Anyway, just reporting, not trying to be incendiary

Meanwhile, I ordered a spare key and will try pairing that. And if all else fails, guess I'll have to try the dealer.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Went to a VW/Audi event yesterday where I observed a guy doing coding on a car for someone who was having an issue doing it himself. His friend remarked "if this guy can't fix it, no one can". Sure enough, about 10 mins later, he had indeed solved the problem for the other guy. I introduced myself, explained the key mismatch situation and he said "have you taken it into the shop?" I told him no, not yet. He said that he's an ex-dealer tech (or something) and that only the dealer can fix stuff like this, something about a token exchange that isn't implemented in VCDS or other aftermarket tools.
I'm sure Uwe will have an opinion about that (oh, he was also using a tool called OBD-eleven and said that it's more advanced than VCDS although the latest beta makes them about even). Anyway, just reporting, not trying to be incendiary

Meanwhile, I ordered a spare key and will try pairing that. And if all else fails, guess I'll have to try the dealer.

I would say that no matter the tool and this includes the genuine VAS tools, they are all susceptible to bugs or requiring to be debugged for errors.
Nothing is perfect and many different tools exploit bugs within existing controllers too.
Post # 33
I wouldn't say it's more advanced because it can do a task that another can't, either way really it's about comfort levels with the user for functionality & what the goal the user is seeking routinely.

I think I can say that confidently being I have owned or have used the tools that are out there just to see.........I'm sick and that sickness is "Toolaholich" syndrome.

 

[Uwe]

Went to a VW/Audi event yesterday where I observed a guy doing coding on a car for someone who was having an issue doing it himself. His friend remarked "if this guy can't fix it, no one can". Sure enough, about 10 mins later, he had indeed solved the problem for the other guy. I introduced myself, explained the key mismatch situation and he said "have you taken it into the shop?" I told him no, not yet. He said that he's an ex-dealer tech (or something) and that only the dealer can fix stuff like this, something about a token exchange that isn't implemented in VCDS or other aftermarket tools.

A "token exchange" for matching remotes on a 2006 8P A3? Sorry, but I don't think so.

-Uwe-

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

I think this calls for an interface picture fun at some point in the bar of interface quality, a true compare and contrast of shit..... in my mind quickly comes, "a reset button" of another competitor & which couldn't be initiated due to their horse shit tamper proof epoxy work.



I will have to open up the thing to see on Monday.....

 

[danix]

So, quick update. Used key from eBay arrived.
Set group 0 to 0, reset. Set remotes to 1. New remote works instantly.
Set group 0 to 0, reset. Set remotes to 3. New remote works instantly, old ones do not. All flash the turn signal lights on pairing but only the new one works.

So... the controller is obviously working. There's no token exchange. Something wrong with the old remotes as Marin and Dana suggested.

So, if I keep this remote, I'll need to physically move the key over to the new remote, then I'm not sure about the immobilizer - is it part of the key itself or in the remote? I suspect the latter which means I'll need to get the SKC from the cluster right?

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

What is the likelihood that the remotes are being seen and rejected because the controller hasn't been defaulted completely or is a bug ........in my experience pretty high.
I bet if you take those remotes and try to pair them to another car, they will indeed marry and that would prove my theory and the fact I have already verified it in the past which is what led me back to the process of defaulting the controller.

In any event I am glad you made some progress.....

Did you verify the remotes you are trying to marry are the correct part # for the ones that didn't work from the beginning .....just as a quality check?

 

[danix]

Did you verify the remotes you are trying to marry are the correct part # for the ones that didn't work from the beginning .....just as a quality check?

Of course. The remotes that won't marry are the original ones from the car (I bought it from the original owner). The replacement remote is a two year newer remote but same FCC ID (NBG 009272 T).

Did some reading, seems like the easiest may be to pop open the old remote, move the actual key and immobilizer chip over to the replacement remote.

 

[Dana]

Right, make sure to do the brain transplant over a towel or carpet (not a concrete shop floor) and if all goes well I'd get another identical used remote and make the 2nd key fully functional. If the transplant is a total flop I guess you'll still have one key so it can be driven to the dealer (not towed!) and a brand new remote and key can be matched if absolutely nece$$ary.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Just consider the fact that it is not so likely that two remotes fail at the same time.........

You could always trade your remotes with someone that doesn't have working ones in same position & due to the controller fails resets of the eeprom & to see if it helps both of you with now new identifiers for each module.

The reason I believe I am right...........

Had a car come in some years ago with a similar complaint which resulted in me changing the controller according to the RTFB but I only had one remote flip key since was a dealer used car from auction and key wouldn't marry with ignition valet.

Later on I bought a signal identifier tool to verify remote and other RF broadcasts.........said it was fine and signal strength was good....WTF!

Some controllers won't reset due to bug, so I made an eeprom image of the new controller, even a default by scanner wouldn't help, loaded bad one with virgin image to the other module and bingo was back in business....with the same shitty old remote.

The point is the antennas are not at fault because they marry to other modules........ when cars came in I tested this theory on at least 3.


NostraJackAss Has Spoken!

 

[Jetta 97]

So, quick update. Used key from eBay arrived.
Set group 0 to 0, reset. Set remotes to 1. New remote works instantly.
Set group 0 to 0, reset. Set remotes to 3. New remote works instantly, old ones do not. All flash the turn signal lights on pairing but only the new one works.

So... the controller is obviously working. There's no token exchange. Something wrong with the old remotes as Marin and Dana suggested.

So, if I keep this remote, I'll need to physically move the key over to the new remote, then I'm not sure about the immobilizer - is it part of the key itself or in the remote? I suspect the latter which means I'll need to get the SKC from the cluster right?

When I sadi something I said form my experience , I do not do bla, bla talk.
But still Jack will not admit I was right , of course that is our Jack

When you open key , if is old remote shell in good condition then you can just transfer remote circuit board form new key , this way immobilizer will be OK.
You will need very small torx screwdriver like one they use form Iphone screen kit.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

When I sadi something I said form my experience , I do not do bla, bla talk.
But still Jack will not admit I was right , of course that is our Jack

When you open key , if is old remote shell in good condition then you can just transfer remote circuit board form new key , this way immobilizer will be OK.
You will need very small torx screwdriver like one they use form Iphone screen kit.

Marin this isn't about admitting if you are right or if I am......it is about shared experiences and which I am absolutely grateful for with your presence.

For the record I have and will again acknowledge your procedure as "your solution" or that Dana also concurs with that solution.

What I am saying here and I am not sorry on this one if I come across like an asshole because I am indeed an asshole , there are reasons it happens and to point out the actual problem with alternate solutions so others have an understanding.

Marin you are often quick to jump the gun on saying something can't be done when it can!

I apologize you don't know WTF you are doing sometimes..........

 

[danix]

This morning, I took apart the old key. Transferred the immobilizer "pill" and key into the new remote, reinstalling the new board I had already paired.
Key works fine.
For giggles, I again reset keys to 0, and tried pairing my other key. Nothing.
I'm going to order another used key and do the same, maybe get a third for a spare and then have it cut.
The engineer in me is really dying to know WHY the old board won't pair, but this is the path of least resistance and will cost me less than an hour of VAS5051 at the local dealer.
Thanks for all the feedback!