Troubleshooting P1340 Camshaft Position Error

[JohnZ]

New member here. I own two different 2001 B5.5 Passat, one a 1.8t sedan, and the other a v6 4Motion wagon. Our v6 threw a timing belt about 20k miles after being serviced by the dealership where it was purchased. The car sat in the garage for two years until I finally had the time to pull the engine apart. I took the heads to a local shop who replaced all 30 valves, valve guides, a bunch of the lifters and did a 3 angle valve job. I got the engine put back together a couple of weeks ago and have a temp operators permit which expires at the end of the month.

The engine is throwing a continual MIL for the camshaft position sensor and a small evap leak. I have replaced all coolant and vacuum lines on the engine, the M80(?) purge valve, all belts, full timing belt kit including all pulleys and tensioners plus a new water pump, and replaced all of the "O" rings on the water pipes, tranny cooling lines going into the radiator etc. Basically just about everything possible to replace while putting the new heads on.

I just purchased a VCDS cable this week and received the package today. I have ran a full AutoScan for a baseline, cleared all codes due to about a dozen errors apparently related to the battery voltage going too low when the battery died sitting in the garage for a couple of years, then ran the vehicle through the readiness program to test all of the engine / emissions systems.

Here is a full AutoScan from this vehicle...

Seeing that the Camshaft position sensor is out of whack, I ran measuring blocks 91, 92, and 93 to see what the camshaft positions sensors are doing. I am not sure how to post a screenshot of the Measuring Blocks, so I am typing up the results here ...

Group 091
Engine Speed: 680 /min
Engine Load: 17.3%
Cam Adj Intake Status: Off
Cam Adj Intake B1 (act): -1.0 deg KW

Group 092
Engine Speed: 680 /min
Engine Load: 17.3%
Cam Adj Intake Status: Off
Cam Adj Intake B2 (act): -1.0 deg KW

Group 093
Engine Speed: 680 /min
Engine Load: 17.3%
Phase Pos Bank 1 Intake: -25.0 deg KW
Phase Pos Bank 2 Intake: 1.0 deg KW

Friday,18,April,2014,20:34:44:58444
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212

VIN: WVWYH63B92E156880   License Plate: BLACK
Mileage: 229990km-142909mi   Repair Order: AfterReadiness

Chassis Type: 3B (3B - VW Passat B5 (1997 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 35 36 37 46 47 55 56 57 58 75 76 77
         
 
VIN: WVWYH63B92E156880   Mileage: 229990km/142909miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 078-907-551-ATQ.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 907 551 CG
   Component: 2.8L V6/5V      G   0001  
   Coding: 07251
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: 6AD5C902169BA54E253-5178
   WVWYH63B92E156880     VWZ7Z0A4034572
2 Faults Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 
            P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
16826 - EVAP Emission Control Sys 
            P0442 - 35-00 - Small Leak
Readiness: 0000 0100
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 927 156 AD
   Component: AG5 01V 2.8l5V  USA 3939  
   Coding: 00102
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: 68D1B30A0897975E337-5178
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8E0-614-111-EDS.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 614 111 A
   Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 QUATTRO D10  
   Shop #: BB 24334  
   VCID: 1C39DFDA8C4F8BFE67F-515A
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 3Bx-907-044.lbl
   Part No: 3B1 907 044 J
   Component: CLIMATRONIC B5GP    0003  
   Coding: 17200
   Shop #: WSC 00124  
   VCID: 2851F30AC817575EF37-5178
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 6Q0 909 605 C
   Component: 09 AIRBAG VW6  04   0004  
   Coding: 12345
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: 3773207615A9C8A66AD-513C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 1J0-907-487-A.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 907 487 A
   Component: Lenkradelektronik   0003  
   Coding: 00118
   Shop #: WSC 53141  
   VCID: 2F631816EDF9006632D-520C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 3B0-920-xx5-17.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 920 926 B
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V01  
   Coding: 07235
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: 234BE426B131B406A65-513C
   WVWYH63B92E156880     VWZ7Z0A4034572
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
   Part No: 6N0 909 901 
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
   Coding: 00004
   Shop #: WSC 05314  
   VCID: F0E15B6AB047DF9EEB7-513C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr        Labels: 3B1-959-760.lbl
   Part No: 3B1 959 760 E
   Component: Sitzverstellung     0301  
   Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
   VCID: 2F631816BDF9006632D-513C
1 Fault Found:
01008 - Note; Emergency OFF Switch is Active! 
            000 - - - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
   Component: 0Q Komfortgerát HLO 0003  
   Coding: 00258
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: 3773207615A9C8A66AD-4B18
   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C0959801
   Component: 0Q Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0003  
   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C0959802A
   Component: 0Q Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002  
   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811
   Component: 0Q Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0002  
   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812
   Component: 0Q Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0002  
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 3B7 035 180 
   Component:    Radio NP2        0005  
   Coding: 04031
   Shop #: WSC 05311  
   VCID: DDBF12DE57D542F6501-513C
No fault code found.
End   ---------------------------------------------------------------------

As I understand it, the Phase Position for Bank 1 Intake: should not be at -25.0 deg KW, it should be within 4 degrees of Bank 2, and ideally at zero degrees, or as close as possible. When I installed the timing belt, I used a locking tool on the camshafts prior to torqueing down the camshaft bolts. I did not have a locking tool for the crankshaft, but put the dampener on and made certain it was dead on to the timing mark before and after pulling the pin on the tensioner. I manually turned the crank over to verify nothing was binding, aligned the timing marks on the crank dampener then put the camshaft locking tool back on to make certain all was still aligned. At this point, the drivers side was just a little bit off where the pins on the locking tool took a little bit of effort to go back in the holes, but it was so close that I did not see any need to realign everything since the tool did go back in.

At this point, the engine runs pretty good. There is a slightly rough idle as I do need to get some new plugs and wires, and am burning off a two year old tank of gas still. The car drives decent but does not pull as well as my 1.8t does at higher RPM (which has a K04 turbo on it but no chip yet).

So, where do I look to troubleshoot the Bank 1 Intake being off by 25 degrees? Would this indicate a bad cam tensioner? Would this indicate the Intake Cam being a full tooth or two off on the drive chain? I am nearly 100% certain that the timing belt is dead on. It certainly is not 2+ teeth off sync which is what it would take to go 25 degrees out of sync I would expect about 10 degrees error for each tooth the belt was off. The shop which rebuilt the heads had put paint markings on the chains and gears and I verified that those were aligned when I put the heads on the engine.

Honestly, at 25 degrees error, I am a bit afraid to drive this vehicle, but it has driven just fine for about 300 miles since I put it back together again.

Thank you very much everyone in advance for all of your assistance.

JohnZ

 

[JohnZ]

In case anyone asks about the Evap error code, I have replaced the gas cap with a new one purchased from the local VW dealer and the rubber "O" ring around the fuel pump as I could smell gas fumes when I checked to see if the locking ring was on tight. But the Evap code keeps returning. I suspect that I will need to drop the tank as I can still smell gas fumes from around the fuel pump area under the rear seat in order to locate that vapor leak.

I also replaced the drivers side camshaft position sensor as that is what was indicated to be replaced by the error the car was throwing and the dealer happily sold me a new sensor. Now I have VCDS and have joined the forum, so hopefully will not be at the mercy of the local dealers parts and service departments.

Comment about the timing belt getting thrown at 20k miles. We had a 24 month warranty. The belt broke at 26 months. The dealer would not do anything, my wife says that we are "DONE" with having other shops "Damage" er repair our vehicles and that it is worth it for me to do the work instead. Anyway, when disassembling the timing belt area, it was apparent that they had NOT replaced the idler pulley and apparently dropped the pulley which put a dent in the edge of the pulley which exactly matched the distance the timing belt shredded with the fraying section getting under the belt throwing the belt several teeth on both sides destroying all 30 valves.

 

[Gary]

Seems like your workshop who built the heads up has timed the cams incorrectly. There should be marks on the chain that allows you to align the cams with notches on cams while your fitting the cams to the head.

In addition when you did the timing belt you NEED to use locking pin 3242 and the tool 3391 to align the two banks properly.. or your just guessing.

 

[vwtech]

Looks like it's out of time.

Did you use the timing tools? Cam locking bar and crank pin. Did you count the rollers on the cam adjusters.
Also hope you didn't cross the cam adjusters from one head to the other, they are different but don't look different.

I wouldn't worry about the EVAP code at this point do that later after it is timed right.

Good Luck

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

STOP! WARNING! STOP!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6n1OcztL7s

All good posts above guys and they should be adhered to with this in addition below.

OKAY! ONLY!
If you are sure cam belt correct......notch's with chain links are observed for sprockets....and you have accounted for the opposed bank for the leading notch being reversed for offset.

This engine had valves bend...... When this happens even if the cams are in time........ counting the 16 links with offset accounted for.

The cams have no key ways on gears or sprockets, with no way to identify if they moved on press fit for chain sprockets.

Since there is no repair information for this.....or a special tool made available to check........this is what you do.

Either compare to known good set of cams or mark the cam and cam sprockets with punch.
Press off and observe for the shear movement on the press fit..........it will show evidence if this is the case.

If they all press off showing a clean surface they are most likely okay.

Replace cams in question if this is over your skill level.
Do not run 094 series basics settings tests in VCDS with this timing error, or your will xylophone the valves again.

Forget the evap code until this is rectified, being cam timing will ultimately effect vacuum possibly inducing a ghost.

 

[JohnZ]

Checking in on my phone before getting started fir the day...

I'll try and respond to everyone...

I machined up an alignment bar with pins all aligned (within a few .001" anyway) with each other custom for this engine. My lathe is down (have not finished building it yet) so did not make a pin for the crank, but followed the procedure detailed above for alignment.

My obdii scan tool reports the error on bank 2 while vcds indicates the error is on bank 1. I will check the sprockets on both sides.

The shop rebuilding the heads had the cams installed, I just verified their paint marks they presumably put on there prior to disassembly were all aligned, trusting that they did it right. I did not think that they may have been off prior to taking the heads in.

I am probably pretty lucky as I think that I have already run the block 94 alignment procedure, but I will certainly avoid that till I get the cams all figured out. I'll be spending the day out in the garage working on the engine and will report back what I find...

How do I post pictures?

Thank you everyone.

 

[Uwe]

How to post pictures

-Uwe-

 

[Jef]

From our wiki site:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928

With 1 exception, every time this fault code has come up, it has been due to a "mechanical deficiency", to which, most of the time the story goes like yours, the top end was rebuilt and now it has that code.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

The above illustration's are all visually incorrect, and so is the repair manual with the exception of the early manuals will show the offset.

This means for example:
The exhaust cam would be a half tooth before the TDC 12 o'clock position and then counting forward the 16 links to the intake cam, which will reflect the 12 o'clock TDC position....... on center.
This is done to compensate for when oil PSI is not yet achieved, engine not running static....... bringing the cam to 12 when in operation under hydrostatics.

The same problem occurs when setup of the VR6 and V6 engines when I get the call on racing cams installations.

None of the engines are setup at 12 o'clock position for both and when this is set this way........ it causes over advanced codes, correlation, and G40 series faults.

It should be noted that in a v6 the first code you will get is for G40 and you wont get a code for the second bank in many cases until the ecu has qualified the first bank.

Oil PSI can also cause correlation or over advanced issues.......even though all timing is correct. This happens from particulates which contaminated the control pressure bypass or the sump being blocked.

I will send a photo to you guys to post for the wiki if you like.
I get this call all the time for over a decade.

This below was that photo but it is also a poor example because it shows the cam at 12 and that is incorrect.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1.8...tro-anybody-show-replace-lifters.html;366;293

Then other photos will show it at 12 and 12 in manual which is also incorrect netting the over advanced code.

 

[JohnZ]

I hope that everyone has had a very enjoyable Easter Weekend with family and friends.

I put the front end of this vehicle in maintenance mode and pulled off the front end so that I could get to the timing belt. When first opening up the timing belt covers, there was some slack in the belt between the two camshaft pulleys. The engine had sat for about 48 hours, and once I started turning the crank with a long handled ratchet, all of the slack went away. I am not sure if that is normal or not, but no matter what I did, I could not get slack in the belt again. I was wondering if the engine happened to stop at just the right position that perhaps the pressure from the valve springs may slowly rotate the passenger side camshaft compressing the timing belt tensioner loosening up the belt ...??? Is that possible?

Anyway, I pulled off the valve covers, aligned the crank pulley to the TDC mark, was able to install my camshaft locking bar then took some pictures of both the drivers and passenger camshaft gears. Let's see if linking to photos I have posted on a public Facebook album will work ...

This first image is of the passenger side head which I believe had the camshaft gears slip which Jack has indicated I should look for. I have not pulled anything else apart on this engine yet as I was hoping that the experts would weigh in on this first.

This second image is of the Drivers Side head which appears to be in proper alignment. Both of the alignment marks on the camshaft are centered on the timing marks on the bearing cap.

Could someone with more experience with these engines take a look at these pictures and let me know if the notes I placed on them appear accurate.

I drew lines on the photo to indicate the actual alignment of the chain and the timing marks.

Please note the height of the camshaft tensioner on the passenger side head compared to the drivers side head. The passenger side tensioner is significantly higher than the drivers side head. I pulled the camshaft locking tool off and manually rotated the engine several times. Both tensioners would "POP" up and down at various rotational positions of the crank / camshaft assembly. At both the upper and lower travel positions of the camshaft tensioners, the passenger side head was extended approximately 3/8" higher than the corresponding position observed on the drivers side head. Is that normal? Do I need to replace this camshaft tensioner, or is there any way to adjust them?

Thank you very much everyone for all of your assistance. - JohnZ

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Both heads are set incorrect........and both should have the sprockets checked for movement on press fit of cam location.

No code for other side because you haven't corrected the code for the passenger side yet which is seen first in the diagnostics.

The height on the camshaft adjuster difference from passenger side you reference, is because the unit works in the opposite pushing direction of the other bank with the sprockets on front of engine.

NOTE
The passenger side of this ATQ/V6 bank will be the same as a 1.8T, when referencing the marks I site. They even use the same cam sprockets.
The drivers side will have the intake looking a half tooth retarded....... to count 16 links exact center of exhaust cam on mark.
The passenger side should be set a half tooth retarded on the exhaust side and then count 16 links on center to intake cam on mark.

 

[JohnZ]

I'll pick up that tensioner tool today and pull both sides. The shops were closed until today anyway. Do I need any special tool to pull the sprockets off the end of each cam? Or can I use a 3 tooth gear puller?

When I pull the sprockets, I will mark both the cam and sprocket. The timing mark or notch on the cam, for reference, is that physically on the sprocket or the camshaft? I'd hate to put two punch marks on the same physical part before pulling the two apart.

One additional thought. When setting the timing using the camshaft locking tool which locks both camshafts in relation with each other... Will that tool lock the position of the exhaust camshaft irregardless of the drive sprocket slipping or the position of the intake cam? In other words, no matter how much the sprockets have slipped, the exhaust can should be correct. All the sprockets do is make certain that the intake cam is in proper relationship to the exhaust?

Thank you.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Must be done in a press............ no gear puller.

A spring loaded center punch works best.
You must mark the sprockets and the cams when removed from the head.

There is a special tool for compression of the adjuster in head and should be used. Ref repair manual for tool # or Snap-On equipment solutions.

 

[JohnZ]

Hmmm. That is one tool I do not have. Any recommendations for a press that will not break the bank? Anything worth while found at harbour freight? There is one of those near by. Anything else I would probably need to order online.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Yup the freight is good.

Get some aluminum or brass stock, to not cause damage when seating.......

Be advised a good indication of a proper sprocket fit/undamaged is the hidden keyway shadow that will be displayed on the inside of press fit of sprocket......
If this was wiped from a shear......get new cams or find the proper center and retime while also verifying press fit acceptable still to hold with micrometer.
The cam has a provision for a key-way, however........ the sprocket was never cut with one......go figure.
Always about the dollars.

 

[JohnZ]

This thread is shaping up to become an excellent tech article.

I stopped by my local dealership parts department this morning as they are only a block away from the office and was told quite rudely that they do not sell any tools even if I had the part number. So, I need to order camshaft tensioner compression tool #3366. Looks like the snap-on tool is listed at $10.64 directly from Snap-On, and there are a bunch on eBay for $6. With owning two 2001 Passat's, a worthwhile tool to add to my toolbox. Since I need the tool before pulling the camshafts, it will be a few days before anything else is done on this engine.

Looking at the pictures of the sprockets you posted above, it does not look like the notch used for alignment is on the sprocket. Is that correct? If that is the case, then the sprocket could be mounted at any rotation as long as the relationship between the alignment mark and the closest tooth are in correct alignment, would you be O.K. I wonder if this is why the sprocket never had a key installed, that way the manufacturing robots could grab the sprocket aligning to the closest tooth before pressing onto the camshaft. Makes designing the robot a lot easier.

However, if the alignment mark is physically on the sprocket, then there would be one and only one possible rotationally correct position that you could install the sprocket onto the camshaft while maintaining proper timing.

Jack - Could you verify if the alignment mark or notch is physically on the camshaft or the sprocket?

Thank you very much - JohnZ

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Looking at the pictures of the sprockets you posted above, it does not look like the notch used for alignment is on the sprocket. Is that correct? If that is the case, then the sprocket could be mounted at any rotation as long as the relationship between the alignment mark and the closest tooth are in correct alignment, would you be O.K.

NO! and YES.....
The sprockets are held in a jig with a specific tool to offset the teeth of the sprocket....... in relation to the notch received by a bar in the press....... by the OEM, robot.....or poor Turk immigrant in the pit.
That would be a roll of the dice on the slack of chain and hydrostatics.
Not recommended.

Jack - Could you verify if the alignment mark or notch is physically on the camshaft or the sprocket?

The mark on the cam is the notch you observe when trying to align the arrows on cam caps. There is no mark on cam sprocket.
Its placement is important though along with press location it sits at.
I recommend you mark with punch on sprocket........dead nuts of notch cut in cam or two indexes at another location you can mark both to get a cross ref.

I should also note that this offset of the half tooth to count the 16 links forward on exhaust cam side....... that the repair manual negates ( cough ) the tensioner should be fully compressed down on top side with chain lose bottom side.

When the tensioner is engaged and no tool is inserted........ the half of a tooth will almost be a half of a half tooth visually.

See if no oil PSI was present....... this is why you get an over advanced code......... because the oil wouldn't push it back to its centerline to the retarded position/centerline when engine is rotated.

HOW ABOUT A LITTLE OF THIS!

 

[JohnZ]

Sorry for the long delay. Sometimes life happens and delays the best of intentions ... Anyway ...

I built a small hydraulic press, just the right size to press the gears off of the camshafts. Here are pictures of the two camshaft gears ...

This is the Intake camshaft timing gear. You can see a single, slightly faded shadow from where the keyway in the camshaft was. To me, it did not look like this gear slipped, plus you would need to have the keyway right in the middle of two teeth on the gear to position the 16th pin on the timing chain at the 12'o-clock position as shown in Jack's picture above.

So, I believe that I will just press this gear back on aligning the marks put on the gear before I pressed if off the camshaft.

This is the exhaust camshaft. Notice that this gear has TWO shadows on the gear. There is a darker (Original?) shadow, plus a fainter shadow where the keyway was when pressing the gear off.

Let me know what you think of this thought process ...

This exhaust gear appears to have slipped a rotational distance close to 1/2 of the distance between two teeth on the gear. The computer says that the intake camshaft on this bank is 25 degrees retarded. There are 21 teeth on each gear. If the Exhaust gear has slipped 1/2 the distance of one gear, that would be about 8 or 9 degrees of rotational slipping - Far from the 25 degrees of error indicated by the computer. Now, if the intake camshaft was installed ONE tooth off by the shop that rebuilt the heads, that would be an additional 360 degrees divided by 21 teeth on the gear, or about 17 - 18 degrees of error. Add those two up and you get 25 - 27 degrees of error ... Right at the point that the computer says the intake camshaft on this bank is off.

NOTE: The shop that rebuilt the heads threw everything into a parts bath. So I am assuming that I can see the darker shadow only because the camshaft itself blocked the solvent from penetrating the space between the gear and the camshaft and it did not dissolve the gunk that you see as the "Shadow". The faint shadows on both gears I believe is where the keyway was when they went into the solvent bath.

This darker shadow which survived when the gear slipped gives me a good indication of where I need to re-install this gear. This would also position the tooth on the gear in the same relation to the keyway as shown in the image above ... Closer to the tooth instead of the valley between the two teeth - which gives the exhaust gear that 1/2 tooth offset for how you count the chain pins between the exhaust and intake gears when aligned properly.

Is it safe to press these two gears back onto the camshafts, adjusting the exhaust gear as indicated above. Once pressed back on, is there anything I should be looking for to make certain that everything is good to go before starting the engine up again for the first time?

Thank you everyone for your expertise and advice. - JohnZ

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

If the sprocket isn't with bent teeth and you change the chain........... probably will be fine.

It's like with anything right? You have to see it.....to believe it.

 

[JohnZ]

Alright. I am taking things one step at a time...

The original plan was to correct the timing on the passenger side head, put the engine back together and run through the tests in VCDS again to see what the timing position was at for BOTH the passenger and drivers side heads. If the drivers side head was within spec, I would call it a day and not look back. But your comment about "and you change the chain" makes me ask - why? If the timing gear had NOT slipped, I would just have driven the car after the heads had been rebuilt never knowing that the chain could be a problem. So, what is the reasoning behind changing the chain? If the gear had slipped or not, the forces should have been just about identical when bending all of the intake valves. So why would the chain not be replaced whenever the valves were bent due to a timing belt breaking? And if the drivers side camshaft timing is within spec according to a VCDS scan, would there be any major risk of NOT replacing the chain on the driver side head?

Looking for a "CHAIN" in for this engine, I come up with the following part number ...

Beck Arnley Timing Chain - Part Number - 024-1384

Interestingly enough, this same part number is called out for the 1.8L Turbo engine, so I assume that the same timing gears, chain and possibly tensioner are shared ???

However, there is a second chain in this engine Beck Arnley Oil Pump Chain - Part Number - 024-1483 - NOTE, this is not the correct chain, it does not have the same number of links in it and will not work.

I can order the timing chain and have it here in time to continue working on the engine by next weekend (estimated delivery by Wednesday)

Once again, thank you very much - JohnZ


Edit - I guess the real question is If I am needing to replace the CHAIN on the passenger head, should I be ordering two chains even though I have NOT pressed off the gears on the driver side cams yet? I was thinking that I was pulling the driver side cams only if once I resolved the timing on the passenger side that VCDS indicated that timing was OFF on the drivers side. But that since the passenger side was off by 25 degrees that the computer was not qualifying the driver side until the passenger side was correct. Or am I remembering things incorrectly?