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Thread: 2012 NMS Passat SEL VR6 Premium Climatronic issues

  1. #11
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    Hello again everybody. Not much to update you with -- no measurements on the ground wire I'm interested in. I need to understand better where the ground actually passes through before I measure its resistance. It appears from the WD that it's a common ground shared with some AC components in a different diagram, and I'm still trying to find time to scrutinize so I understand where that is. I don't want to fry something.

    But in my last visit, I did take another autoscan, which produced NO codes whatsoever. This after the car was being driven consistently. Heat issue still present as before. Interesting.

    I then measured the battery with my voltmeter, and got the following results:

    Car off: 11.79 volts
    Cranking: 9.8 volts
    Running: 13.79 volts

    I see from my very first autoscan it reported 11.6/11.4. My later autoscan, a couple weeks later, reported 11.8/11.8.

    Is this a healthy battery? I wonder if a reboot would help, regardless.

    But I'm beginning to think the whole thing is really just a clogged heater core. Meaning the system has enough muck in it from the prior neglected coolant, that it promptly clogged up the new core as soon as I installed it. Despite my best efforts to flush the system.

    One of these weekends it'll be time for its 10K mile service, and I will do another coolant flush then, and maybe we'll find out.

  2. #12
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    That doesn't sound like a healthy battery to me. Have you tried charging it?

    However, I doubt that a weak battery is causing the problems you cited when you started this thread.

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  3. #13
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Are the heater hoses hot in and out with temp gun if measured?

    Can you manipulate blend doors manually to make heat?

    Are you sure cooling system is without air bound issue?

    Have you checked the flow of core with a garden hose or attempted a reverse hook up to flush?

    Post a complete auto-scan please.

    Any battery sitting 15 minutes after being fully charged and less than 12.5 volts static is junk!
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  4. #14
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    Thanks for the additional feedback.

    Couple challenges to answering your thoughts Jack:

    1. No heat gun in my possession. But my earlier fingertip test of the metal pipes under the dash registered that they're both hot. The core could be partially plugged or air bound, as you point out, so maybe coolant passes through the pipes like we'd expect, but not the whole core.

    2. I haven't removed the lower dash to look at the blend door activation to confirm movement, or manipulate them manually. Running the calibration steps seems to make all the right noises, and completes satisfactorily according to the VCDS. I'll check that next time too.

    3. Air bound is certainly possible. As with heat gun, I'm not equipped to do a vacuum fill of the system, so I'd have to pay someone to do a flush and vacuum fill for me to find out. Can a Mighty Vac get the job done? I assume not.

    Maybe there's an air leak in one of the hose unions too, admitting air?

    4. I have to do a timing chain/guide job later this summer, and I'll be including a complete cooling system check including pressure test. And a definite reverse flush with garden hose.

    5. I have no autoscan to offer for the latest go-round -- I keep transferring back and forth between my Mac and PC, and don't have the PC handy in my Lockdown Shanty here in Brooklyn (car's in Connecticut, safe from the zombies). But the general concept is, no trouble codes from HVAC.

    6. Good to know on the battery. I'll plan to replace the battery as soon as I can. I'm aware of the coding requirements.

    I am still expecting the core to be clogged. You should have seen the calcium crap that came out of the heater pipes when I was handling that repair.

    Thanks for the patience at my bass-ackwards approach to this diagnosis...and the slow pace. I am definitely learning, and enjoying the process.

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