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Thread: Misfire after aborted scan, ECU comm problems, 2005 S4 Cabriolet b6 8H BHF 4.2 V8

  1. #51
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    Re the BHF engine – yes, Jack, I can see that…we did buy this car eyes wide open, knowing that the engine would have to come out some day. Tell me about the non synthetic oil comment, is it because of sludge? I use Mobil1 0w40 currently, I am open to suggestion.

    The bank one exhaust cam is 15 degrees different, behind the other three cams. Coincidentally, the sprocket has 25 teeth…one tooth is 14.4 degrees.

    I used Snap-On MT 324 leakdown tester with 110 PSI source 9-18-2016. Engine was cold, as it is torn apart right now. All cylinders were within 8% - #1 10%, #5 5%, #4 10%, #8 10%, #6 13%, #3 8%, #7 10%, #2 8%.

    I noticed that some cylinders held at 20-30% leakage for a few seconds, then dropped for final reading – is that normal? I zeroed the tester between each cylinder. It appeared to have at least 3-4% deadband, so I zeroed it in the same regulator direction each time.

    Next up – drop the oil pan to look for sludge (and tensioner pieces) and to check the strainer per ivagp’s suggestions. The crank is locked in place for cam adjustment. When the engine is back together, I have an oil pressure test kit ready.

    I am also refinishing the valve covers – there was big time corrosion. When I media blasted, what was black became deep ruts. It appeared to have a zinc chromate, yellow / green primer, strange choice. Is that factory?

    Thanks All.

  2. #52
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    zinc chromate, yellow / green primer, strange choice. Is that factory?
    Was the prior owner an A&P or in aviation/military?

    Not OEM.......

    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?2224-Oil
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Was the prior owner an A&P or in aviation/military?
    Unknown to me. The car had a few owners.
    Interesting oil thread. Yes, the oil gets very, very hot - the entire area underhood seems to be far hotter than most cars.

    By the way, does anyone know of a self study manual for the BHF 4.2 liter engine? And how to get one?

    Thanks, all.

  4. #54
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  5. #55
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    well, Houston, a problem...the OEM exhaust cam bolt I ordered from ECS was 125mm long...and has visible runout. The one that came out of the cam was 100 mm long. The ECS bolt does not wind in far enough. The good news is that I think the procedure will work with the right part. Still researching part numbers tonight, off to the dealer tomorrow.
    Last edited by RichS; 09-19-2016 at 11:04 PM. Reason: I made a mistake.

  6. #56
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    Greatly appreciated Jack - is there a self study manual that is specific to the MPI, BHF engine? Or is the FSI engine as close as we get?

  7. #57
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    Search around ............
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    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  8. #58
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    And in conclusion - the car went back together well, and runs better than ever. The difference in power and smoothness is significant. No sludge present that I can find. No chain rattle, hot or cold. I also had to replace the center radiator, PRG valve, and repair various vacuum leaks. Currently, there are no engine error codes or misfires at all.

    I still have to reprogram a new passenger seat controller, and figure out why the passenger side window does not always drop automatically on door opening - but hey, the car runs well. Lots of interior trim to fix as well.

    Thanks to all that commented. Your comments pushed me to figure out what was really going on here, and gave me the courage to pull it all apart. I took almost all of your suggestions.

    After owner research, I may yet pull the engine. Regardless, I am watching carefully for any sign of chain rattle or misfire, and stepping up my oil change frequency. It appears someone has already removed the engine valley plate, perhaps for check valves, so I am researching that. We anticipate enjoying this car a long time. I won't fear taking the engine out thanks to this experience and your collective insight. Next up - oil pressure test, at some point timing chain tensioner service and perhaps valve stem seals if not heads.

    Regards,
    Rich

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  10. #59
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    I realize now I mistakenly did not post the summary update! I apologize, I thought I did.

    The biggest problem was that after sitting for a few weeks, I started the car, and since the cam chain tensioners were not pressurized...one intake cam skipped one tooth, resulting in a 14 degree change in the cam setting. Examination with a camera inside the cylinders of the RH bank showed that the intake valves kissed the top of the pistons, removing carbon but not incurring damage! (It passed a leakdown test). I replaced the cam bolt and re-timed the cam, and all was well. If you make a special tool, this can be done - in my 8H 2005 BHF series audi cabriolet - without removing the engine. You have to lock the crankshaft with a special tool, but you can make the cam alignment tools. Since the repair, there have been 20,000 trouble free miles. I did have to tighten up the intake manifold, repair the variable intake mechanism, and a few other details, so almost every comment was valid - thank you all. Yes, Uwe, Jack, very wonky indeed. Credit also; my Audi dealer, who sends a mechanic out to read my Ross-tech scans at no charge...Phil from Des Moines Audi finally shook his head sadly and said, "It's time you looked inside the engine...valves...". For a 40 valve engine, these words invoke fear.
    Last edited by RichS; 09-21-2019 at 08:25 PM.

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