2004 Audi A8 02 Sensors

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BostonSlaya

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Why did you kill the 034 test?

Do over...........all tests and don't rush.


Most tests require gas and brake except 070,071,077,037,041 but some depending on the ECU support take over with brake and gas pressed.
Some require a sweet spot RPM like OXS heaters @ 3500

01-04-108 ( Additional AUX brake booster pump ) NOTE: ( Engine not running and press brake until test commences holding..... then displays result of vacuum pump in 4th field )

These following tests while running!

01-04-071-ON ( LDP Test )

01-04-070-ON ( EVAP )

01-04-077-ON ( Secondary air test ) ( It is normal for this test to abort and may need to be done last on some controllers, however, always check DTC's after test )

01-04-028-ON ( Knock sensor test )

01-04-094/096-ON ( Vario cam timing test )

01-04-030-ON ( Heated OXS bin bits spec 111 front and 110 for rear )

01-04-034/035-ON ( Forward OXS test )

01-04-036-ON ( Rear OXS test )

01-04-037/038-ON ( Age test OXS )

01-04-041/042-ON ( Heater circuit resistance display )

01-04-043/044-ON ( Additional OXS test )

01-04-046-ON ( CAT test )
I'm So Sorry So do you want me to run all test's listed in this quote or just the ones I did in the last video? Thanks I will get this lol
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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I want you to clear DTC's .......do a TVA and then do all tests in caption.

In addition when done I want to see block 0x01-08-030, 031, 032, & 033

Video works for me.
 
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I want you to clear DTC's .......do a TVA and then do all tests in caption.

In addition when done I want to see block 0x01-08-030, 031, 032, & 033

Video works for me.

OK I did all test in your previous post, I'll post that video... What's TVA? and how to do all test in caption? Ill do test on 01-08-030,031,032, & 033 after your reply on TVA... Thanks so much for your dedication in helping me man...

Here is the new video kind of long, (that's Good right lol)
 
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Ok I posted a video of tests I'll do the other test you requested.. As for the TVA is there a video in wiki to do this? If not is it easy to find out how to do it correctly? I want to give you everything your requesting as accurate as possible.
Also did I do the tests right in that last video? I waited for each one to say test off?
 
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Dude 060...........
Sorry brother I watched the WIKI video and already finished the TVA before your reply... I'll make sure I do more work on my end in figuring stuff out before asking questions. So sorry I appreciate all your hard work and helping me through this while learning a lot from you...
Video as requested.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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I think it's possible you may have a slight vacuum leak in the booster or intake.
The MAF may also be weak or contaminated.

Fuel PSI and volume should be checked............

Firmware update may aid in correction, however, above tests are recommended first.
 
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So I assume I have other problems other then o2 sensors lol, Or these problems are the reason for the o2 sensors.
Vacuum leak sounds about right I guess! The car does shake very little now at idle. I'll figure out the best ways to check on vacuum leak first and go from there I guess..
I love this car but Audi is a completely different animal then anything I have ever worked on for sure! Listen I thank you again for everything and all your input you have provided! Any other guidance or help is always appreciated and I will try and figure this out and keep you posted.

What data did you read that helped you figure this to be one of the 3 options? I noticed the Cats are not getting to the recommended temp via VCDS pop ups.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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I don't think you need CATS yet or even OXS sensors.

What data did you read that helped you figure this to be one of the 3 options?

I tossed the diagnostic dice on the parts counter..........033 deviation.

Firmware update.........trace leak or correct fuel PSI/volume loss.

Verify fuel filter with regulation!
 
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BostonSlaya

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I don't think you need CATS yet or even OXS sensors.



I tossed the diagnostic dice on the parts counter..........033 deviation.

Firmware update.........trace leak or correct fuel PSI/volume loss.

Verify fuel filter with regulation!
Well it not being the cats sounds awesome! LOL
ILL replace the fuel filter first because I don't even know when it was done! Lol you think the best way to locate the vacuum leak is using propane or starter fluid? I did clamp down on my brake booster line and it still ran fine so I'm thinking it's not that. I do notice my RPMS are running low not to low though. The car drives 10 times better though when I just start it and drive without waiting for it to warm up. As for testing fuel PSI I lost lol. Thanks dude ��
 
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Use of a non flammable gas has always netted great results for me, because it creates a good dead miss!

I also use UV dye, a garbage bag, or saran wrap to see if I get an implode effect.

Then I also crimp lines to see changes for PCV or any line going to intake.
 
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Use of a non flammable gas has always netted great results for me, because it creates a good dead miss!

I also use UV dye, a garbage bag, or saran wrap to see if I get an implode effect.

Then I also crimp lines to see changes for PCV or any line going to intake.

OK, So I'm sitting here at the Audi dealer as we speak. I decided to bring it to Audi to look over the car and they indicated that there is no vacuum leak or fuel PSI problem I have two bad cats. They said that the engine had to be removed and it's going to cost me over $5,000 to do the job. I think this is crazy because when I brought the car in for the Timing belt change and they only came back with I needed new front pads soon and new tires I already replaced that. I feel like this is crazy that I got this Timing belt done 3 months ago and also got component protection cleared and they inspected the whole car and nothing was wrong with the car. 3 months later I have two cats blow out on me??? Sounds way to odd... Any insight on this would be appreciated. thanks
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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OK, So I'm sitting here at the Audi dealer as we speak. I decided to bring it to Audi to look over the car and they indicated that there is no vacuum leak or fuel PSI problem I have two bad cats. They said that the engine had to be removed and it's going to cost me over $5,000 to do the job. I think this is crazy because when I brought the car in for the Timing belt change and they only came back with I needed new front pads soon and new tires I already replaced that. I feel like this is crazy that I got this Timing belt done 3 months ago and also got component protection cleared and they inspected the whole car and nothing was wrong with the car. 3 months later I have two cats blow out on me??? Sounds way to odd... Any insight on this would be appreciated. thanks

VIN: WAUML44E74N017518 Mileage: 100450km-62416miles

Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-910-560-BFM.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 560 A HW: 4E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0070 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< FIRMWARE UPDATE!
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUX3Z0CD531019
Coding: 0007773
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 1F4DDD45CE847AC667-804A

2 Faults Found:
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1
P0420 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold - Intermittent
16814 - Catalyst System; Bank 2
P0430 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
Readiness: 0000 0000

Yank car out of dealer.........
Send me the controller for update.

Get estimate in written record not just a verbal.........!
 
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BostonSlaya

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VIN: WAUML44E74N017518 Mileage: 100450km-62416miles



Yank car out of dealer.........
Send me the controller for update.

Get estimate in written record not just a verbal.........!

OK, How much is this going to cost me to have you do the update? I will do this as soon as I can get some money. I just recently lost my job so I'm short on cash. I cannot wait until my house sells and I can move back to Boston lol.. Thanks
 
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