Eurovan 2000

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gduncanson

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Code:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.4 Running on Windows XP x86
Data version: 20160216
www.Ross-Tech.com

Friday,25,March,2016,17:20:21:26691

Chassis Type: 7D - VW Transporter/Multivan (1996 > 2004)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 18 19 22 25 35 37 56
 
   Mileage: 208530km-129574miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 021-906-259-AES.lbl
   Part No: 021 906 259 P
   Component: MOTRONIC M5.9    AT V03  
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 224B9B9FAEA7B22E48-4AE8

11 Faults Found:
18021 - MIL Control Circuit 
            P1613 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00577 - Knock Sensor Regulation Cylinder 1 
            08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
00579 - Knock Sensor Regulation Cylinder 3 
            08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
00524 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61) 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
00581 - Knock Sensor Regulation Cylinder 5 
            08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
            P0300 - 35-00 - 
16685 - Cylinder 1 
            P0301 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
16690 - Cylinder 6 
            P0306 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
            P0300 - 35-00 - 
16685 - Cylinder 1 
            P0301 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
16690 - Cylinder 6 
            P0306 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01P-927-733.lbl
   Part No: 01P 927 733 BC
   Component: AG4 Getriebe 01P    4478  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 75E190C34FA975965D-095E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8E0-614-111-EDS.lbl
   Part No: 7D0 614 111 B
   Component: ABS/EDS 5.3         D00  
   Shop #: BB 24258  
   VCID: 1B35A67B89CD83E68B-5124

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 909 603 AJ
   Component: AIRBAG VW3 -        V04  
   Coding: 16714
   Shop #: WSC 02743  
   VCID: 71E9A4D33BC159B681-4B00

3 Faults Found:
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 
            32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131) 
            32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 7D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
   Part No: 7D0 920 901 E
   Component: T4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V01   
   Coding: 03261
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 25418083BF8945162D-5140

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 03:19)--------------------------

Here goes, I have two vw's at the moment with drive-ability issues. My ATQ passat snapped it's TB three weeks ago and I just got it back on the road with a used engine and the CEL came on during my road test. This post is about my wife's 2000 Eurovan which has been running like a champ until last Tuesday. My car was down and we were ride sharing when the CEL came on.

Less than two years ago (last Spring) I had to pass CT emissions and used the vag-com to troubleshoot all the SAIP and vacuum issues to get it through which it did after replacing the SAIP, the EGR valve, the issue ended up being the kombi valve itself which no amount of cleaning could get to move the plunger. I also replaced all the spark plugs at that time. All was good until last fall (4 months ago) when it developed a heater core leak, so I put in a new heater core and afterwards the airbag indicator came on, I double checked both airbags and they were attached so I closed it up and drove it. Fast forward four months to last Tuesday and we're driving on a secondary road and I felt the engine shudder followed briefly by a CEL, but it went away. About 30secs later we're at a stop light and the engine begins shuddering again and the CEL comes on steady. I turned around and headed home, basically limped the mile distance home because attempting to accelerate would cause the light to blink and it wasn't a violent shaking, just an uncomfortable shuddering like it was out of sync.

Hooked up my vag-com and it wasn't reading, getting "questionable" and "short to ground". I had lent this vag-com to a friend from work in the last two years so that he could "fix" his heavily modified A4. I suspect now, something happened it to then, since he said "it worked and then it didn't".

With no vag-com, I took the pass airbag out to check it's connection, I checked the connections under the trans hump and checked voltage at #4 & #7 per the aftermarket radio airbag warning light document, the voltage is 10.5v but I have yet to get a 1k resistor to verify it. I do have an aftermarket radio, but I installed it eight years ago. When I got my passat back together I tested the vag-com on it and got the same error-so yesterday I upgraded to the HEX+CAN unit.

Above is the first scan from the EV.

At the moment I have the radio out, the climtronic unit is detached as well (access to pass airbag).

I'm walking (literally) out to Good Friday services, I certainly don't expect any responses tonight, but I'll check later and again tomorrow and will hang on anything that's offered. Thanks...
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Looks like a bad coil pack ............beware of the China ones

We have them if needed in real Beru.......
 
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gduncanson

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I think you're right! I pulled the spark plug cable off #6 while it was running and got nothing; checked #2 the same way and got something through me to ground. :) Traced and cleaned all the airbag connections. Thinking these were actually residual from when I had the dash apart for the heater core repair. Cleared all the codes and ran the engine for about 2 minutes and the CEL came back and the codes were only three(3) cyl#1, cyl#6, and random misfires.

I have a place in the next town that I usually buy from for convenience. They have a Hueco on sale for $146.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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If you can get Beru I would...........buy the coil only and save money not buying the power stage because it is removable to be reusable.

Hueco is now China.........
 
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gduncanson

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I appreciate that you're a supporter of this site and the only respondent to my OP. I will probably pick up the Hueco locally unless I can find a used oem coil pack for significantly less. I found a Beru from GAP and it's $198, a little steep for me. The chinese stuff is love/hate right, love the price/hate the risk of premature failure. The van is 15 yrs old, I don't need a CP to last another 15 yrs, yet I've read that the chinese cp's are the ones that get replaced annually too. :)

The 2000 eurovan is a 12v vr6, do you know if all the 12v vr6 coil packs are interchangeable? When I called junk yards on Friday I asked for a eurovan CP, maybe if I ask for a Golf CP they'll have them.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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VR6 coil packs with switch are not in most cases interchangeable.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Wanna try something and save some coins?

Take the coil out and separate it from power stage ........further remove the metal bridge.

Wash and clean coil with alcohol and dry with compressed air.

Bake in oven at 175 degrees F on cookie sheet and aluminum foil for 30 minutes then cool for 1 hour ambient.

After cooled take RTV silicone........... and coat the entire secondary side by connectors where cracks are and suspect leaks in back.

Let dry over night to cure.

Reassemble the coil and under cover where the 8MM nuts are for the power stage coat further with RTV ........let dry then install the unit go drive it.

Clean the wire end booty's and further Rub RTV on all the wire ends of the coil area externally and let them dry before assembly or plugging in.

Use a good contact cleaner and fine brush to clean the high tension connectors on the wires internally and coil outputs.
 
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gduncanson

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Interesting, I've read about the JB Weld fix for VR6 Coil Packs that were arcíng externally through cracks in the plastic shell. I figured my CP had failed internally in that, the coil that is shared between #1 & #6 is not firing. I'll try your suggestion tonight. I prefer repairing to replacing anyhow.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Worth a shot I think........

When getting down ghetto style ...........I have even sawed the units to segregate them internally, with a RTV cushion; and further grab good used coils and reinstall them in the housing if dead.

This is a waste spark system and dumb.........The power stage is required for the ECU though......specific tolerances for the switch.

You can take individual high tension early round coils, and make a six hole bracket to wire them direct to the power stage.
It is a hell of an enhancement, and the early round stuff is rugged which never fail.

Same can be done with early square block coils too.

I do this on race cars, and even DFI coils that are just too small.

You would be surprised what you can do with one mans garbage.........to crank up the dwell.
 
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gduncanson

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no change--put it all together this morning and same three codes: cyl#1, cyl#6, and random
 
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gduncanson

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Fingers crossed.........

No, it didn't work, cleared the codes and started the engine. it ran a little rough and in a few seconds the CEL came on, shut down and I could smell unburned fuel. same codes came back.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Before you change the coil.......... verify the power stage is actually switching via ECU.

Do this with an LED tester/noid at the terminals for each respective coil.
 
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gduncanson

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I've been trying to find a tester. I do have a test light but it's an old craftsman from carburetor days. So after work the last couple of days I've visited Autozone, harborfreight, advance auto, and sears hardware looking at test lights and some say "computer safe" and they're the typical probe type with clear screwdriver handle with either both neg- and pos+ or just a single lead. But they look and feel cheap. I'd just as soon buy a good tool and use it for a while.

Question--I realize there are youtube videos on how to make your own noid light or led tester. Can you recommend a decent test light? The one in the Bentley is the VAG 1527B which is superceded by the VAS 6839, which looks just like the Fluke T150. The description of the VAG 1527B is below.

"For locating faults in all vehicle electrical and electronic components. The use of an extremely low current (max. 1.5 mA) prevents any damage to the electronic components during the test. Conventional test lamps can cause damage to electronic components due to the high voltage required and therefore should no longer be used. "

What do you think of these I found which are in my budget?
Ideal Industries 61-092 Vol-Con Elite
Extech VT10 Multifunction
Klein Tools ET200
 
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gduncanson

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I bit the bullet and bought a coil pack from AutoZone. Supposedly made for them by Wells electronics in China. They offer no questions asked returns for 30 days and lifetime replacement to the original purchaser. So it fixed the issue, my wife says it drives noticeably smoother and peppier. I wish it wasn't Chinese, but if it fails every year, I should be able to get a new one. :) fingers crossed.

Thanks for your help.
 
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