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Thread: 2004 Audi A8 Air Suspension help please

  1. #11
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    Air suspension Touareg owners in the snow belt also run into this issue. Some are able to buy a few more seasons by r&ring the fitting. But it is probably electrolytic corrosion on the aluminum threads of the strut. Perhaps clean up threads and JB Weld or try a helicoil? The socket is T 0158/1. Audi will just sell you a new strut.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lgibson View Post
    Air suspension Touareg owners in the snow belt also run into this issue. Some are able to buy a few more seasons by r&ring the fitting. But it is probably electrolytic corrosion on the aluminum threads of the strut. Perhaps clean up threads and JB Weld or try a helicoil? The socket is T 0158/1. Audi will just sell you a new strut.
    Thanks for the info I took the red line out and made sure it wasn't leaking, it wasn't. I ended up buying some JB weld and applied it around the area. As I tried to test it the motor turns on but doesn't life the front end at all now. It did before but it would just drop down, now it doesn't move up at all on both ends. I tried to do an adaption in 34 and it won't pass ch1 without a error. There are no new DTCs so nothing more to post but any ideas? I'm thinking maybe the motor needs a rebuild so I ordered a new piston ring and seal. Any thoughts?

  3. #13
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    Have you tried this?

    I would jack the car up to support it at a normal ride height and try charging the front axle.


    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...eding-Charging

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by delboy View Post
    Have you tried this?

    I would jack the car up to support it at a normal ride height and try charging the front axle.


    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...eding-Charging
    Delboy thanks for teaching me something new!!
    So I bleed the system as stated, I then tried to fill and it kept saying ABORTED instead of done. I did try this without it being jacked up because it's hard to jack it up as low as it is. I will try again though, other thing is how much should I let it charge to? Looks like if i run it again the pressure goes up more. This procedure lifted the back up fine just not the front. Thanks for the help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonSlaya View Post
    Delboy thanks for teaching me something new!!
    So I bleed the system as stated, I then tried to fill and it kept saying ABORTED instead of done. I did try this without it being jacked up because it's hard to jack it up as low as it is. I will try again though, other thing is how much should I let it charge to? Looks like if i run it again the pressure goes up more. This procedure lifted the back up fine just not the front. Thanks for the help.
    Front axle pressure max is 9.5 bar and 6.5 bar on rear axle. the process activates as you know once you click the button but it times out after 60secs, if you need more just do it again.

    Obviously if you have a leak or some other issue you may never get it up, don't keep trying because you may overheat the compressor, just try up to the max pressure as witnessed in block 4

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    Ok so I jacked the car up to around normal drive height. I did all steps provided above and I got passed the aborted part. I can get a max of 4.88 bars for pressure in the front axel. So of corse I'm thinking maybe the compressor is to weak to lift it?? I was thinking that but of corse the back lifts perfectly so that shouldn't be the problem right??? I'm lost on why it won't lift when it used to.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonSlaya View Post
    Ok so I jacked the car up to around normal drive height. I did all steps provided above and I got passed the aborted part. I can get a max of 4.88 bars for pressure in the front axel. So of corse I'm thinking maybe the compressor is to weak to lift it?? I was thinking that but of corse the back lifts perfectly so that shouldn't be the problem right??? I'm lost on why it won't lift when it used to.
    The fact that the rear axel has a max pressure of 6.5 tells me that it requires less to lift the weight of the rear which makes sense as the cars are front heavy.

    Let the compressor have a break for a while and if the temp is sensible run the accumulator charging test, that will only charge the accumulator and not the struts, when I ran the test on mine I quit at 15.5 bar the max of the system is 16 bar so at the very least you would like to see 9.5 bar doing that test. if its less then you will need to rebuild the compressor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by delboy View Post
    The fact that the rear axel has a max pressure of 6.5 tells me that it requires less to lift the weight of the rear which makes sense as the cars are front heavy.

    Let the compressor have a break for a while and if the temp is sensible run the accumulator charging test, that will only charge the accumulator and not the struts, when I ran the test on mine I quit at 15.5 bar the max of the system is 16 bar so at the very least you would like to see 9.5 bar doing that test. if its less then you will need to rebuild the compressor.
    This might help but here is a video i posted on YouTube. I did it with the car running, but also with the car off and battery charger connected. Here is the link to the video.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KHmh5Lf2QD8

    Let me know if I'm missing something, thanks so much.

  10. #19
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    Compressor maybe weak or manifold could be dirty.........or slight leak.

    Taking the distribution switch manifold off to clean and lite lube helps a lot.

    Inspect with soapy water to check for leaks or foaming class cleaner.



    FYI for compressors that are dead or weak and to expensive for some.

    You can modify with the "all metal" air pump from harbor freight, and retrofit it in with temp sensor and your own air filter.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...esult/?q=96068
    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 11-17-2015 at 07:05 PM.
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  11. #20
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    The accumulator test shows your comp is at least capable of 9 bar and you can't get more than 4.88 in the front axle so you do indeed to start tracing why, the valve block is up in the rear part of the drivers side wheel arch near the bulkhead, check the lines there with foaming leak check like Jack says and also the struts, if nothing obvious the you need to isolate the struts individually to try and eliminate the bad from the good.

    This thread is great info and cheap to do
    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...ew-method-here

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