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Thread: 2005 mk4 jetta tdi 5-spd 09A Transmission issue

  1. #91
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    I apologize if it seems like I am belittling you. This is not my intent!
    It is just I would like to see if you could get a quick cheap fix...without dumping pointless money in the garbage can.
    That's is why I love this tool and this forum.

    The forum is a funny place.....and sometimes yeah I can be known to be a wiseass.
    Even more so when I feel someone is not listening.
    I can easily be taken out of context by my poor writing skills, and the fact I am eager here to help,...... and your pissed off because of the actual problem etc.

    The point I am trying to make and will continue, is that the repair manual is not to be substituted for Google searches and shared documents or comments in a forum.
    It might be for some that understand certain things and have a grasp......and sometimes the answers are quick and shear repetition.



    The information I posted is in the factory repair manual for your specific car.......... not on the VCDS manual.

    It's in section :: Automatic Transmission ( On Board Diagnostic ) sub group ( Diagnosis and testing ) Subject ( Basic Settings Initiating )

    Yesterday I had to do a starter in a 03 Golf 1.8T 09A auto.

    Hence I disconnected the battery and then did my job....... reconnected and did basics for TV in 0x01-04-060/063 and reset the ADP in 0x02........ readiness in the bay x2 DCY and then a road test loop. Every car I do this no just sending it out the door.

    Automatics are a soar subject for me.
    History already indicates that there are people taking huge amounts of money from people for noids and clutch plates, with a half ass inspection/re-USE......... then charging more money then the dam unit cost from the OEM. Only to what blow up in short time frame once the new discs wear a little lowering the PSI and starting the contamination process all over again?

    I realize your time is limited.....you must realize that I care or I wouldn't write this or answer the questions I do.

    Thickening agent = Motor oil Mobile1 0w40 European blend with ATF up to 50/50.

    Some cars I ran 100% 0w20 and 0w30............
    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 02-20-2015 at 03:36 PM.

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  3. #92
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    I have also had good luck with this straight but the car had to warm-up on cold days.
    No reason you couldn't cut it with this and ATF for testing the condition.

    http://www.samsclub.com/sams/certifi....ip?navAction=

  4. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    I apologize if it seems like I am belittling you. This is not my intent!
    It is just I would like to see if you could get a quick cheap fix...without dumping pointless money in the garbage can.
    That's is why I love this tool and this forum.

    The forum is a funny place.....and sometimes yeah I can be known to be a wiseass.
    Even more so when I feel someone is not listening.
    I can easily be taken out of context by my poor writing skills, and the fact I am egger here to help,...... and your pissed off because of the actual problem etc.

    The point I am trying to make and will continue, is that the repair manual is not to be substituted for Google searches and shared documents or comments in a forum.
    It might be for some that understand certain things and have a grasp......and sometimes the answers are quick and shear repetition.



    The information I posted is in the factory repair manual for your specific car.......... not on the VCDS manual.

    It's in section :: Automatic Transmission ( On Board Diagnostic ) sub group ( Diagnosis and testing ) Subject ( Basic Settings Initiating )

    Yesterday I had to do a starter in a 03 Golf 1.8T 09A auto.

    Hence I disconnected the battery and then did my job....... reconnected and did basics for TV in 0x01-04-060/063 and reset the ADP in 0x02........ readiness in the bay x2 DCY and then a road test loop. Every car I do this no just sending it out the door.

    Automatics are a soar subject for me.
    History already indicates that there are people taking huge amounts of money from people for noids and clutch plates, with a half ass inspection/re-USE......... then charging more money then the dam unit cost from the OEM. Only to what blow up in short time frame once the new discs wear a little lowering the PSI and starting the contamination process all over again?

    I realize your time is limited.....you must realize that I care or I wouldn't write this or answer the questions I do.

    Thickening agent = Motor oil Mobile1 0w40 European blend with ATF up to 50/50.

    Some cars I ran 100% 0w20 and 0w30............
    Thank you, and as in my reply to Andy, TONE is nearly impossible to detect in written words. Don't think for a second I am not listening, and absorbing all I can, and appreciating your time, because I am. Just getting the car to the point it would fail regularly enough to even diagnose has been a monumental task and the last 48 hours have been insane, but hey, if you ever find yourself with a locomotive you cant figure out, give me a call. My thoughts are to reset adaptations, verify wiring at trans as well as tcm, and either add a varnish remover to the trans to possibly free up a sticking solenoid, or thicken the fluid to increase PSI. My son is getting the manual now and if I can, perhaps i can measure pressure of K3 if I have the tooling to do so.

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  6. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by roth View Post
    You see, and now we have 2 things to deal with, your trans and your attitude.

    My friend, I think you should feel humble, grateful and maybe then you will feel blessed.

    Humble, because you need something and can offer nothing in return.

    Grateful, because there are people out there that for whatever reason enjoy figuring this stuff out.

    Blessed, you might fell if you actually manage to fix your problem.

    ...and don't even start about VCDS support being included, etc. Support is for using the tool not for diagnosing transmissions.

    Regards, Andy
    There is no attitude from me, and ive stated thanks over and over for the help. I've asked a lot of questions and received a lot of answers that i am grateful for. It's been 2 days since I dove into this problem head first so for sure there is frustration. While at work I only have the internet and am using that time to gain information. I'll admit, i assumed RTFM to mean "read the f-----g manual" instead of read the factory manual. My mistake and my apologies. "TONE" is very difficult to detect in writing, so please take that into consideration. I know there is no magic answer and this follows my line of work quite closely, but I've read everything from clean a solenoid to replace the entire transmission (which is expected, I get that). I'm trying to find the most methodical way to properly diagnose this with a lot of conflicting information (not just from here). Also, never once have i said a word about VCDS support, we chose to post the problem on this forum in the hopes of avoiding all the drama you see on most other forums.

  7. #95
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    To do that..........The two most important documents in the repair manual are toward the end of the tree as ( TEST TABLE )

    One for block values in scanner............a great read you need.
    One for electrical tests for all connections to/from the TCU and guts of trans.

    2 stroke diesel/electric choo choos ?


    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 02-20-2015 at 03:12 PM.

  8. #96
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    Yes, 2 stroke EMD locos. I design, rewire, diagnose, and sometimes scream at their electrical systems. They haven't got much attention from me though in the past 2 days though so I'm a little behind.

  9. #97
    Verified VCDS User roth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Locoelectrician View Post
    There is no attitude from me, and ive stated thanks over and over for the help. I've asked a lot of questions and received a lot of answers that i am grateful for. It's been 2 days since I dove into this problem head first so for sure there is frustration. While at work I only have the internet and am using that time to gain information. I'll admit, i assumed RTFM to mean "read the f-----g manual" instead of read the factory manual. My mistake and my apologies. "TONE" is very difficult to detect in writing, so please take that into consideration. I know there is no magic answer and this follows my line of work quite closely, but I've read everything from clean a solenoid to replace the entire transmission (which is expected, I get that). I'm trying to find the most methodical way to properly diagnose this with a lot of conflicting information (not just from here). Also, never once have i said a word about VCDS support, we chose to post the problem on this forum in the hopes of avoiding all the drama you see on most other forums.
    OK, don't sweat it.

    You can try Jack's suggestion just if only to get it out of the system. There is also this stuff here:

    http://lucasoil.com/products/transmi...ansmission-fix

    Some swear by it. I have no opinion on it.

    Let us know how it goes.

    BR, Andy

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  11. #98
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    You will also note that the additive is permitted to be mixed and topped off with regular engine oil and or ATF..............

  12. #99
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    Ok, so hear me out for a moment and then I'll move forward with whatever you guys feel is best. Had 4 back to back "slips" yesterday and the temp never moved at all, which tells me that instead of slipping, it didn't engage (so no excess friction), which would lead me to believe stuck solenoid or stuck something. You seem convinced it's k3 slipping though (which I can't argue against). Going to check harness, attempt to reset adaptations and....... Does my theory hold any water and I would be better first adding a varnish removing product? Or is it firmly believed k3 is actually slipping and my best bet is thickening the fluid?

  13. #100
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Well based on the logs and real life experience...........History of your Information tells me the clutch unit was not changed and a half ass rebuild was done.
    Establishing the PSI needed is the only cheap effective path and best advice before running a solvent through.

    I asked this before without being answered.

    Does this only happen hot and does it drive flawless cold?
    Reason I ask is fluids are harder to switch via noid cold and thick........ verse hot and wet!.........makes sense right?
    Compare and contrast WIN!

    Old V8 engine has very slight rod knock cold/hot little more but raps more audible cold and used 5W 30 oil from the day it was new...... and is just loose run out......change to 10W 30 and the noise is gone.

    Cushion for rods pushing...........
    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 02-20-2015 at 04:44 PM.

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