Hello,

Got everything reassembled today, did the adaptation using VCDS and took the car for a couple of test drives. Throttle response was noticeably better and the graph didn't have any of the odd dips present typical with the old throttle. I'll have the VW mechanic take a look at my work and check out the wiring to determine if there is evidence the wiring could be a contributing factor to this problem. Interestingly it looks like there is a bracket that hold two connectors to the bottom right side of the intake manifold via two screws? The connectors are seated in the bracket but the bracket is not connected to the intake. Does that bracket screw to the intake and if so is there a place to get replacement screws to attach? Maybe that's a question for the mechanic. Yet one more reason I'll never take my car to a dealer again.

I do have thoughts on a few things I've learned in this process that might make things easier for someone else doing this sort of work. A micro ratchet is a great tool for this job. I got a HBR5 from VIM as well as their low profile Torx bits and it made it much easier to reach screws crammed in tight spaces easier to reach. Only improvement I could think of is an articulating micro ratchet for some locations, e.g. rear screws on throttle body, but the micro ratchet with a short extension did the job. Another location the micro ratchet worked really well was to release the rear facing plastic tab on the U shaped engine air intake hose to release it from the bottom of the air filter housing.

The longest amount of time spent was removing the turbocharger intercooler pipe, but I'm confident that was in part due to the tech at the dealer mangling the upper hose clamp around the throttle body, it fought me for over an hour even with hose picks. Only once it was off and I looked up the image of what the hose clamp should actually look like did I realize the effort was not typical if the hose was installed and undamaged. All of the other screws and clamps came apart easily with a stubby ratcheting screwdriver and nut drivers.

Frankly if you have smaller hands/fingers removing the throttle body is going to be much easier. Enlisting the help of someone to uninstall and install the throttle body with those attributes is highly recommended. A medium sized lint free towel positioned to both block open pipes and catch any screws is a good idea. I had a cheap telescoping magnet just in case but I didn't need to use it.

Placing a small mirror on the towel will make aligning and installing the new throttle body gasket much easier. After fighting with the new more rigid turbocharger intercooler pipe I took a break and got some IPC P-80 Emulsion. I wiped it on the inside and edge of the silicone pipe only and in about 15 minutes the new pipe was installed, 14 of the minutes was really fighting the confined space I had to work with. Reinstalling the noise pipe took 5 seconds with the P-80, it's really remarkable stuff in my opinion.

I was curious what the old throttle body looked like inside so I unscrewed the Torx screws and used the Vamplier VT-002-6 (Engineer Japan rebranded tool for the NA market) to easily remove the shear screw. I was surprised to find the gears in pristine condition, not a hint of wear or broken teeth. The only thing that was a little odd was when I turned the small gear attached to the motor it consistently seemed to get harder to rotate in one area and made a whining sound, not sure if that is normal for the motor to do that or not.

Thank you for all of the assistance on the forum, I'm glad Ross Tech makes such an affordable and capable tool. While one can hope the UX of VCDS will improve over time to decrease support load even further I can say it's paid for itself many times over in a very short time in my case.