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Thread: 2014 Jetta SE CPRA automatic engine problem

  1. #1
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    2014 Jetta SE CPRA automatic engine problem

    First off thank you for reading this and any insight is appreciated. This is my good friends car and was trying to help them make a decision and if I could help fix in my spare time then all the better. The car is in really good shape other than the issues I will describe.

    Car has 130,000 miles on it. It started burning oil and definitely was driven for a bit low on oil. I was in the car during a trip and heard some noise from the engine I didn’t like checked the oil and it was about 2 quarts down from even registering on the dipstick. I think the PCV valve assembly is to blame for burning oil because it has some intense vacuum when I remove the oil fill cap while the engine is running.

    Took it to the dealer in Kingston NY and they told me there was no oil in the turbo and that they would need to do some more in depth diagnostics to determine the issue. They did not tell me anything really and gave me a $250 bill for looking it over. That didn’t sit well with me.

    The car runs and drives great there is no smoke out the back and the oil looks good. Under hard acceleration from a stop there is minimal smoke out of the tailpipe.

    In addition to that it also has an issue where it sounds like a diesel until I unplug the VVT magnet on the side of the timing cover. When I unplug this it stops the knock. Thinking either the magnet or the valve behind it responsible for valve timing is to blame. This engine also has a loud noise from the timing cover when it is started cold thinking the tensioner is taking a bit to gain oil pressure. I gather these engines had trouble with timing guides\tensioners.

    This is the exact noise and same result from unplugging the Magnet.





    Are these engine generally noisy I’m worried that a bearing inside may be bad and is what I am hearing on idle. I’m debating on whether I should get a junkyard or reman engine and swap it out. If I was to swap the motor would I need to recode the ECU for anything if I keep the original harness? Should I cut my losses and trade it in while it’s still running? I’m fearing it will have a catastrophic failure at highway speeds and I just want to make the right decision. I have been wrenching for a long time but I just like to ask some questions to people more experienced than me with the modern dubs.

    I’m able to get a used engine complete with turbo for about $1500 shipped with a 6 month no questions asked return policy. How difficult is the swap in these cars? Will I need to take the nose apart and come out the front or can I crane it out or drop it out the bottom with a lift table? Any insight is appreciated I’m not sure which direction I should go.

    I really appreciate anyone taking the time to read this.
    Last edited by CrispySonOfA; 03-14-2020 at 02:00 PM.

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  3. #2
    Ross-Tech Employee DrPeter's Avatar
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    Hello,

    I would check the timing chain tensioner. There is a plastic cover on the timing chain cover/case that can be removed to inspect the position of the adjuster.

    This is my 2.0L with 53,000 mile on it, it is okay, not great but not real bad either. It is at three rings or so, extended out to the right.




    There is a good video that the " Humble Mechanic" has put together to help with this procedure of inspecting the chain tensioner.


    How to Check 2.0T TSI Timing Chain Tensioner







    I believe the 1.8L is pretty much the same, it looks the same from the repair manual/parts manual. If you have the new style, like mine and you are past 5 or 6 rings with the tensioner extended, I think you may have a worn or stretched chain.

    I have not had one of these apart yet! But if I am not 100% correct here, hopefully others may know for sure.

    As always, use the Official Factory Repair Information when attempting to diagnose and repair these vehicle.

    Hope this helps,

    drpeter

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