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Thread: Oil

  1. #11
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    jetta 97 your quote,Also diesel engines does not get fuel in oil at all. have you done any labs on a engine with dpf. also vw only allows 5% bio, because bio evaporates at a much hotter temp. and vw is worried about dilution. for Ohio they allow 11% bio because of state laws.

  2. #12
    Professional User Jetta ,97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bar&kevs View Post
    jetta 97 your quote,Also diesel engines does not get fuel in oil at all. have you done any labs on a engine with dpf. also vw only allows 5% bio, because bio evaporates at a much hotter temp. and vw is worried about dilution. for Ohio they allow 11% bio because of state laws.
    Post #3 is car with DPF.
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  3. #13
    Professional User Jetta ,97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bar&kevs View Post
    Every gear is shift around 3500-4000 with gas pedal to floor. is that the way you drive or drove a diesel engine ?
    That is the way I drove and I drive new diesel engines, and never had problem with Carbon or anything else.
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  4. #14
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    if you where my customer and we went on a drive. I would tell you don't worry about carbon my son, worry about the gear box. that is a sure way to destroy any drivetrain, brakes, suspension etc. etc. its your dollars blow it any way you want. after 3000rpm most diesel are out of steam any way. imo this is no way to treat a car. I have read your posts on a lot of other posts and appreciate you trying to help on the forum. not trying to make enemies. I just don't want people to think they can drive pedal to the metal without consequences

  5. #15
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    Smile

    i have an audi 2.0tdi dpf bkd engine with 150k miles ,ive only put 20k or so to it the previous owner did most of them on the motorway, so which type of oil is recommended and at what interval? i normally change oil and filter 7/8k miles 5/30 synthetic low ash
    i do around 150mile around town every week and once every 2 weeks a good motorway run...never had any dpf issues yet but always a concern
    my normal driving i change gears around 2200/2500 revs but that contradicts the display from the car computer when to change gear,
    when i drive in this manor my car is not economical at all average around 30mpg,
    if i drive according to the car display (gear up}at around 1700 revs which is too many quick gear changes hard to keep up with, the mpg goes up slightly,
    I'm rather confused as to how to drive my car properly to achieve best mpg, and correct type oil to use so no dpf issues.. or am i better off with an automatic which has its own dsg problems, or better still go back to petrol.....
    and by the way i just drive normally in a mellow fashion no hurry to get anywhere fast
    Last edited by raf0468; 03-01-2015 at 05:40 PM.

  6. #16
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    I don't know which engine you have but if you have a dpf I think you should be using 5-30 504/507 spec oil which is low ash.I have an older alh engine. the oil spec on mine is 502/505.i also use total 504/507. if you don't put 10k miles in 12 months imo change your oil at least every 12 months. the sweet spot to keep the rpms is near the top of torque curve. to avoid dpf problems avoid idling for long periods. usually when its in regen mode a good 45 mile highway trip shoul complete the cycle. I don't have any experience with dsg trans .but I do know in case of failure they cost an arm and a leg.

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  8. #17
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bar&kevs View Post
    if you where my customer and we went on a drive. I would tell you don't worry about carbon my son, worry about the gear box.
    I doubt he means he keeps the pedal to the metal during the actual shift.
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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  10. #18
    Professional User Jetta ,97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bar&kevs View Post
    if you where my customer and we went on a drive. I would tell you don't worry about carbon my son, worry about the gear box. that is a sure way to destroy any drivetrain, brakes, suspension etc. etc. its your dollars blow it any way you want. after 3000rpm most diesel are out of steam any way. imo this is no way to treat a car. I have read your posts on a lot of other posts and appreciate you trying to help on the forum. not trying to make enemies. I just don't want people to think they can drive pedal to the metal without consequences
    I also had 99.5 and I drove that car for 70k the way I drive, It was tune car with good power , about 120Hp vs 90Hp stock. That car still running because I know the guy I sold it. He put about 20K and he drives kind of like me. That car still running perfect with out any problems with of drive train.
    I forgot to mention I do this when engine warm up, till then I shift about 2500 RPM. Of course you can not drive all time 3000-4000 rpm , it depend of road condition and etc. But in global I want to say I drive those car kind of aggressive , and this will reduce all kind of problems on those cars.
    Look at those 2.0 T FSI engines , every single one who was baby those cars had problem with carbon and injectors, and some cars was at 50k with this problem.
    I have customer that he has 120k on his car with APR stage 2 , he drives kind of like me , and no problem at all with carbon build in intake and injectors.
    So it is one way or other , but I guaranty you for drive train that is the last thing you have to worry for braking .


    One thing people does not understand that new generation of cars are not 1980 technology. It is High performance engines and they like to be push.
    Also Turbo engine means POWER, so it means PUSH IT , not baby it.
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  11. #19
    Verified VCDS User Rembrant's Avatar
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    Hey Folks

    Since you're talking about oil in Volkswagens here, I have an observation that leas me to a question on oils...

    I bought my 2009 Mk4 VW City Golf a used a couple years ago with about 40k miles on it.
    Car is a 2.0L gas, 5 spd.

    I changed the oil when I bought it and put in Castrol Edge 5w30...the full synthetic VW spec stuff.
    It burned that oil at what I considered to be a fast rate...like a full liter by 2500-3000 miles. (For me, that's too much)
    I switched up to the same Castrol Edge full synthetic in a 5w40 weight. I didn't really want to because of the cold starts here in the winter, but it helped.
    With the 5w40, I was getting more like 3500-4000 miles before I'd have to add oil.
    I should note, during this time, I was getting repeated DTC errors for the front/upper heated O2 sensor reading out of range (during cold starts).
    Anyway, I had the oil changed at an independent shop, and they put Mobil 1 "Euro Blend" 0w40 in the car.
    Then, my oil issues went away, almost completely. I could put 6000 miles on this oil before needing a liter, sometimes more.

    So, I've been running this 0w40 ever since, and coincidentally, my O2 sensor errors went away as well.

    So, for you VW experts, does this behavior sound normal for an old Mk4 2.0L gas engine?
    Obviously it was burning oil...and now it is not...or is burning much less.
    However, is the 0w40 a bad idea?...

    Thoughts?
    Late build 2006 White Jetta BRM 5spd. Mile eater.

  12. #20
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Sounds to me as though your engine likes that oil. Why would it be bad? That old 2.slow engine is low-tech enough not to require oil with esoteric, proprietary specs.

    How often do you change your oil?

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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