Me thinks the ECM is toast!

Jack@European_Parts · Feb 17, 2020

I put a key case in box already with old one, German chocolate, front and rear OXS all genuine, MAF, new ECU in genuine box and updated with cluster.

You figure it out you guys are on honor guard system.

Will have tracking number activity tomorrow.

Jack@European_Parts · Feb 18, 2020

SHIPPED!

PM sent with tracking...........

ETA Thursday

bruceleroy · Feb 19, 2020

Jack@European_Parts said:
SHIPPED!

PM sent with tracking...........

ETA Thursday

PM received. Will update over the weekend when we put it all back together.

Over and out!

Jack@European_Parts · Feb 21, 2020

To update the post, we received an awesome package from Jack@European_Parts. New ECM was installed. Although the old ECM needed work, the fuse was not blowing because of the ECM, but for another reason. As suggested, the president and post OXS were replaced. Corrosion was noted when pulling the connectors apart.

It may have operated but it wasn't in operation properly and why I did what I did.
Hot spot was indeed found.
Everything working okay now?

Final auto-scan Tube's?

bruceleroy · Feb 22, 2020

Received awesome package from Jack@European_Parts.
ECM was replaced as we discovered the fuse kept blowing and when we pulled it, the ECM is for a MK4 Jette VR6. Although it worked, it was not the proper one. Thanks Jack.

To fix the blowing fuse issue, we replaced pre and post OXS. When we pulled the pre, we noticed corrosion present. Connector was dry and no intrusion detected. A bit curious since the connector is sealed and covered. Might consider drilling holes in cover that protects connectors to ensure no water is retained.

We ohm's the pre OXS and found the following readings. Across pins 3 and 4, we read 3.3 ohms. This was present at same value on both old and new. Only other readings we found were across pins 2 and 6. Old OXS read 112.4 ohms, while new read 122.2 ohms. This is an indication of wear.

On post OXS found only reading across pins 1 and 2. Found 9 ohms on both old and new. Will start it up and drive it around to set readiness and report issues.

bruceleroy · Feb 23, 2020

ECM installed.

She's alive!!!! Reset codes. Taking it out this morning to get readiness set again, and see what other faults still exist.

Known faults not caused by ECM, after run fan, running way too long (10 minutes). Suspect F129/G65. Already replaced temp sensor in thermostat housing, new fan control module and radiator temp sensor. No refrigerant in HVAC lines. This is next project.

Will post results. If you have suggestions about what to monitor in adv measure blocks when driving (son is driving,while I monitor) gladly accept for my education.

Jack@European_Parts · Feb 23, 2020

Is fan module receiving a signal from radiator fan switch or only the ECT to turn on and is secondary electronic water pump functional?

Is main water pump functional and not spinning on shaft for impeller being inefficient?

Maybe thermostat is stuck and causing coolant only to return within block and never opening or enough to permit coolant flow to radiator, hence forcing fans on by ECT in water neck only and using fans to cool engine by air circulation in bay and for extended periods?

bruceleroy · Feb 24, 2020

Jack@European_Parts said:
Is fan module receiving a signal from radiator fan switch

Yes. Validated signal and continuity check.

Jack@European_Parts said:
is secondary electronic water pump functional?

Don't think so. I think this may be culprit plus saw leak from body.

Jack@European_Parts said:
Is main water pump functional and not spinning on shaft for impeller being inefficient?

Have not checked. If memory serves, can validate flow through coolant overflow.

Jack@European_Parts said:
Maybe thermostat is stuck and causing coolant only to return within block and never opening or enough to permit coolant flow to radiator, hence forcing fans on by ECT in water neck only and using fans to cool engine by air circulation in bay and for extended periods?

Suspect the above first. Recently replaced thermostat housing with new thermostat in last 6 months, but understand failure can come right out of the box.

I'll put this in General repair section no VCDS.

Onto latest nd greatest. Stepped though readiness and had a bit of trouble maintaining 1350-1450 rpm at first, but steadied the leg and foot and everything was good except secondary air injection and B1S1, although it passed both OXS tests in readiness.

Do have a new secondary air pump. Will investigate more. Watched the B1S1 fault go away when we test drove it. Then it came back.

Still have communication issues with ECM.

Code:

Monday,24,February,2020,18:39:37:46074
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20190930 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


Mileage: 295560km-183652mi   Repair Order: Liam Post ECM Post Test drive



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
          76
 
   Mileage: 295560km-183652miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 021-906-018-AFP.lbl
   Part No: 021 906 018 R
   Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1  G   6762  
   Coding: 00031
   Shop #: WSC 03738  
   VCID: 1D31F90D970234A7AC-5140

1 Fault Found:
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1 
            P0134 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 1000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 907 379 D
   Component: ASR FRONT MK60      0103  
   Coding: 0021505
   Shop #: WSC 00001 785 00200
   VCID: 2B5527D589B6CA1722-515E

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 3Bx-907-044.lbl
   Part No: 3B1 907 044 C
   Component: CLIMATRONIC     C 0.7.0  
   Coding: 01000
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 2149C5FDAB7A104788-524C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
   Component: 07 AIRBAG VW6  0202 0004  
   Coding: 12343
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 3A7B129126EC639FA9-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 1J0-907-487-A.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 907 487 B
   Component: Lenkradelektronik   0001  
   Coding: 00008
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 306F30B9F090A9CF17-51D4

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 920 925 D
   Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V09   
   Coding: 07232
   Shop #: WSC 03738  
   VCID: 2A5B22D1D64CD31FD9-5140

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
   Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2950297         
   IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2950297       

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
   Part No: 6N0 909 901 
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
   Coding: 00006
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 70EFF0B93010E9CF57-515E

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
   Component: 62 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001  
   Coding: 00256
   Shop #: WSC 00001  
   VCID: 0603B6612294D77F9D-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
   Component: 62 Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
   Component: 62 Tõrsteuerger. BF0002B  

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:12)--------------------------

bruceleroy · Feb 24, 2020

Suspect there might be a contact issue with one pin.

Jack@European_Parts · Feb 24, 2020

Did you install new MAF sensor?

That should be cleaned already, ever etch connection or use Stabilant 22a after cleaning?

Jack@European_Parts · Mar 1, 2020

How you make out here.............REPORT OP?

bruceleroy · Mar 1, 2020

Replaced MAF today. Then went to junk yard for side mirrors for my 09' Jetta. Did not take car out today. Son drove this week and ECM fuse blew again. He says every time it has blown, he was coming to stop. He claims he was engine braking when it happened all three times.

We spent time troubleshooting his coolant fans that run from KOEOff til roughly ten minutes after pulling key. I have found auxilary water pump gets .87 v DC. Know this comes from J293 T14/1 and T14a/13. I assume this should be 12 vDC and is triggered by F18 Coolant Fan Control Thermal Switch. I this 12V DC coin off here? If so, this might be an issue. Even though it was brad new. I will test out tomorrow.

I will look at B1S1 as well, considering we have intermittent issues. I am concerned with connection. Getting Stabilant 22.

Was in Huntsville til last Friday and Saturday was honey do. Will dive back in tomorrow evening and give full report.

Jack@European_Parts · Mar 1, 2020

10-4

Since battery sits right above fan module did you check fan harness for battery acid ingress and grounds under battery box yet?

bruceleroy · Mar 2, 2020

bruceleroy · Mar 2, 2020

bruceleroy · Mar 2, 2020

You dig and you dig and follow advice and surely you can find the problem. For the ECM, the fuse blowing issue, here is what I found. The wiring harness above was exposed many months ago. I wrapped it with self adhesive tape( I hate electrical tape). It eventually wore against the starter B30+. The two wires exposed are brown(ground) and black/lilac going to t5 ignition coil pack. The back end of this connection is to.........fuse block 29 ECM, which keeps blowing.

Found the ECM issue. Thinking of covering the exposed wire with flex seal. I would spray it on a surface and then paint it on and let it dry. Hard to get some tape around the small wires in the bundle, then wrap the whole thing well with self adhesive tape. I this concludes the ECM portion, so we can close this one and I'll continue on with the fan issue in the other post. I suppose something must have effected what I have already replaced in the way of fan and fan control.

Jack@European_Parts · Mar 3, 2020

SPIRAL WRAP!

HMC · Mar 4, 2020

Hi Jack,
"SPIRAL WRAP! ". Yes but he still needs to seal the wires to stop the green death!
Bruce,
Could you cut the affected wires further along the harness where you have a bit more room to work and slide some adhesive heat shrink over the chaffed point and reconnect the cut point with heat shrink butt connectors?
Regards HMC

bruceleroy · Mar 4, 2020

HMC said:
Hi Jack,
"SPIRAL WRAP! ". Yes but he still needs to seal the wires to stop the green death!
Bruce,
Could you cut the affected wires further along the harness where you have a bit more room to work and slide some adhesive heat shrink over the chaffed point and reconnect the cut point with heat shrink butt connectors?
Regards HMC

HMC, thanks for question and suggestion. As an electronic technician, this is feasible, however you introduce other issues as two more failure points where you connect the butt connectors. I know it is harder to tell in the pictures especially as they are exploded, but the exposure is not that much. If flex seal isn't feasible then flexible sticky caulking should do the trick. I would prefer to keep the wire intact as is and limit any other potential issues. I think coat exposed wire (creating seal), wrap whole wire with self adhesive tape and wrap that with spiral wrap and make sure it is secured.

Instead of butt connectors, I like cutting wire, stripping back sleeve and resolder wire then shrink wrap ( you must put shrink wrap on before soldering). The solder bond is stronger than any crimp, especially when reinforced by heat shrink.

Jack@European_Parts · Mar 4, 2020

LOL

W-Crimp and then solder and heat shrink......

Then SPIRAL WRAP!

Me thinks the ECM is toast!

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