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Thread: Replacement engine recommendations

  1. #1
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    Replacement engine recommendations

    Hi guys and gals,
    Looking to get recommendations.
    I am thinking about replacing my 2000 VW Beetle 2.0 GLS engine.
    I have an AEG engine, I want to find out what is involved in getting a reconditioned crated engine.
    I need recommendations for suppliers that are reliable and honest so that I can get an idea of cost.
    The internet is full of companies touting their wares and I dont want to get ripped off.

    DJ

  2. #2
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Buy from dealer new crated engine or roll dice on cheap used low mile one from dump?

    Why did it fail, because it's rare this engine fails or is yours just clapped out?
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Buy from dealer new crated engine or roll dice on cheap used low mile one from dump?

    Why did it fail, because it's rare this engine fails or is yours just clapped out?
    115,000 miles. Burning oil.
    I get misfires and the spark plugs need taking out and cleaning all the time.
    I really have no idea what I am doing, I got told I need a rebuild, but because of the time the car will be off the road I feel that just getting the engine switched out would be a quicker process.
    I am not getting a junkyard engine. If I get the work done it has to have warranties and no issues.
    I have no access to any other vehicle, I cannot risk having sporadic breakdowns following the work.
    I need to get recommendations on WHAT dealer can sell the engine and the experiences they have with them.
    If anybody is in the Philadelphia area and knows of an honest (non dealer) VW specialist mechanic, who CAN use VCDS, please let me know.
    It may not be as serious as I am being told, and a person who is a VW specialist or enthusiast rather than a general mechanic may have a better idea.
    When we compression test its between 150 and 160 on all 4 cylinders, but spark plug on #3 gets fouled up very quickly and the check engine light comes on the car splutters and the exhaust smells foul.
    I don't have enough knowledge or capability to do the repairs or tests myself and live in a municipality, where carrying out anything other than emergency auto repairs on the street or private property accessible from the street is illegal and heavily enforced.
    I am getting really frustrated.
    I earn very little because I work part time so that I can dedicate my energy to my many foster children, and I need my car!
    It's not like I bought some old vehicle, I had it 19 years from new and used it in 3 different countries.
    I would rather fit a new engine than deal with unreliability.
    The only reason I feel that the engine needs replacing is because I am told that AEG engines are notorious for failing this way.
    Maybe some of you mechanically minded people can tell me better.
    DJ

  4. #4
    Verified VCDS User Zenerdiode's Avatar
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    I feel for you. It's such a shame you can't find a local, honest workshop that would put a bit of time in to diagnose your problem. It feels to me that about an hour of good diagnostic work would pin-point what's going on. From what you've already said; (dry?) compression looks good and balanced, so there's really only two other ways oil is getting in to Cyl. 3. Valve stem oil seals or the PCV valve. Ok, the oil control rings may be damaged; but unlikely if good oil and good service intervals have been met.

    Are you sure the contaminent is oil? Describe the deposit, please. (Wet, dry, colour etc.)

    Please also post an Auto-Scan.

  5. #5
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/192810677662

    Hey what's this link do above?

    Hey have you tried lowering the engine oil level and running a heavier oil?

    Did you take the breather line at intake boot from VC and send it to a catch can or bottom of air box yet or consider a Mann Hummel pro vent?
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  6. #6
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    OP please remove intake boot without cleaning anything and post a picture of flap at TV and inside the boot, is it saturated with oil?
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zenerdiode View Post
    I feel for you. It's such a shame you can't find a local, honest workshop that would put a bit of time in to diagnose your problem. It feels to me that about an hour of good diagnostic work would pin-point what's going on. From what you've already said; (dry?) compression looks good and balanced, so there's really only two other ways oil is getting in to Cyl. 3. Valve stem oil seals or the PCV valve. Ok, the oil control rings may be damaged; but unlikely if good oil and good service intervals have been met.

    Are you sure the contaminent is oil? Describe the deposit, please. (Wet, dry, colour etc.)

    Please also post an Auto-Scan.
    The coating on the spark plugs is black and oily. Its in all cylinders not just #3, that one just worse than the others.
    I get a sulfur kind of smell from the exhaust.
    Explain the process of renewing/replacing: Valve stem oil seals, PCV valve, oil control rings.
    I am unable to do a scan until daylight so I post tomorrow.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/192810677662

    Hey what's this link do above?

    Hey have you tried lowering the engine oil level and running a heavier oil?

    Did you take the breather line at intake boot from VC and send it to a catch can or bottom of air box yet or consider a Mann Hummel pro vent?
    I am not sure how to do that.
    I use Castrol SAE 10W-30, it burns cleanly - unlike synthetic oils that cause fouling of the spark plugs around 50 - 100 miles, it takes around 800 - 900 before I have to clean them.
    5 years ago it was 10,000 miles, 2 years ago 2,000 miles, and more recently down to under 1,000.
    You would have to explain to me what to take off and photograph.
    I dont know what I am looking at.

  9. #9
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    I am not sure how to do that.
    I use Castrol SAE 10W-30, it burns cleanly - unlike synthetic oils that cause fouling of the spark plugs around 50 - 100 miles, it takes around 800 - 900 before I have to clean them.
    5 years ago it was 10,000 miles, 2 years ago 2,000 miles, and more recently down to under 1,000.
    You would have to explain to me what to take off and photograph.
    I dont know what I am looking at
    RTFB



    When you remove the intake boot after MAF to TV & with throttle cable since AEG, what is the oil content?

    Photo the inside of throttle plate, intake boot and upper half of air box please, can you do that?

    If you remove the air box upper side is oil dripping on air filter and contained in MAF with residue?


    PICTURES!

    Dont you know how to drain oil and add straight weight oil at a lower level?

    How many quarts of oil to you install in your engine after dong an oil change?

    Do you run the extended size filter to increase capacity of sump total?

    Did you read this yet?

    https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/...ProVent_en.pdf

    Ever try these Nazi blends?

    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    RTFB



    When you remove the intake boot after MAF to TV & with throttle cable since AEG, what is the oil content?

    Photo the inside of throttle plate, intake boot and upper half of air box please, can you do that?

    If you remove the air box upper side is oil dripping on air filter and contained in MAF with residue?


    PICTURES!

    Dont you know how to drain oil and add straight weight oil at a lower level?

    How many quarts of oil to you install in your engine after dong an oil change?

    Do you run the extended size filter to increase capacity of sump total?

    Did you read this yet?

    https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/...ProVent_en.pdf

    Ever try these Nazi blends?

    I can't do any of that stuff myself.
    I don't have the tools or equipment to do my own maintenance, the mechanic shop puts in the oil and gives me some to top up with.
    The filter is the basic one that autozone sells.
    My job contract prohibits me from handling certain chemicals or doing rough work such as mechanics, building with cement, or using solvents and paints, anything that may cause my skin to harden, roughen, or appear dirty.
    So I am limited in what I can do on the car myself.
    I will take a look at the air filter for residue tomorrow.
    DJ

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