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Thread: At my Witt's End

  1. #1
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    At my Witt's End

    I was hoping someone could chime in, and give me some direction of hope. I've had nothing but European cars, so I usually know my way around them pretty good. But this 1 has me completely stumped. Long story short - I bought this 2011 Tiguan 2.0T TSI 4 motion Not running, already knew timing chain failure. So I had head checked 1st. Pressure and straight / level. So far through my journey with this I've put in New - 8 intake & 8 exhaust valves with new seals. Every gasket. Pulled oil pan to clean and reseal. Replaced all 3 chains, guides & tensioners. Water pump, thermostat (twice), belt & drive pulley. Intake. Cam & Crank sensors. Oil cooler. Waste gate control valve N75 which I broke. VVT valve & Magnet. Oil separator. And your normal routine maintenance.
    Now to the problem, I'm having - sort of overheating issues, you can say. Idling in garage, as if you were bleeding out air of cooling system with heater on. It all functions as supposed to. Gets up to temperature, radiator gets hot after thermostat opens, then fans kick on. And so on, I let it run 4 fan cycles and thought all was good. Until I drove it. After a few miles, on take off from a stop sign I heard the chains rattling. So I went straight home and checked it out. Radiator was cold & fans running. Checked temps with VCDS and clearly thermostat should of been open, 218F coolant, 82F outlet temp and oil temperature was at 256F.
    From my experimenting, It all operates normal if you run the heater, within 5 minutes of shutting heater off, the coolant level rises in jug, no bubbling - fans kick on - radiator is cold, but according to my VCDS readouts thermostat should be open.

  2. #2
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    Remove the 2 bolts for the water pump belt cover and move it back a tad, enought to see the water pump belt. Start the car and see if the water pump belt is turning. Sounds like one of the balance shafts seized and the sprocket broke off. Personally, seen it more on the intake side balance shaft, but happens to both. Really sounds you'll find your problem there....unfortunately

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  4. #3
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    Balance shafts did lock up on me earlier in this journey of mine. Along with water pump & thermostat it does have new balance shafts. New water pump belt. New drive sprocket. Then when I changed oil cooler last week, which coolant side was restricted, I triple checked everything as I was putting it back together. My initial thought was drive sprocket came loose, but it was still tight.

  5. #4
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    Just a update, Did a combustion leak test. No problems there. Drained radiator and refilled system with a air lift re-filler. Still same results.

    Paying more attention to temps and times, Experimented yesterday morning, started car and let idle with heater off. I let coolant get up to 215F, fans are running, radiator is cold and outlet temp was 68F. Car still running, I turned heater fan on (1) not on high, within 6 minuets coolant temp started dropping as expected from pulling heat, outlet temp started rising and as expected radiator was getting hot. After running for about 15 minuets after turning heater on my temps will level out at coolant 204F, outlet will start off at 176F then drop to 104F

  6. #5
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    Good that the balance shafts are new, but just to be sure did you recheck it? Just to verify the water pump belt is spinning. New parts fail too, and if crud clogged them last time, hopefully it didnt happen again. Point being, you replaced well everything, you should not have heard chain noise for any reason. Also just thought of this, have you checked the aux water pump? those have been known to overheat and melt and melt the 2 pin connector also. Maybe check the plug, ohm the pump? output test? See what you find there

  7. #6
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    Just a little update. Been very busy.
    I made a rookie mistake, and thought I had figured it out. But it just made it stranger. When I flushed it, the block was full of water and I added 50/50 mix. I drained it, just by pulling lower hose and refilled with straight concentrate.
    Started it in garage and with heater on to bleed system, it was all good. Still running turned heater off and temperatures stayed the same. Then I got cleaned up and took it for a ride down freeway, got off at exit, go to take off and heard chain noise again. Pulled over and got laptop hooked up. Just to find temps back up again. So I sat there with heater on and temps came back down and thermostat opened. With laptop still on, got back on freeway and watched temps, Thermostat was not opening again, whether heater was on or off. Got home sitting in garage, car still running, heater off, revving up to about 1100 rpm, thermostat opened.
    So now thermostat will open and close normal whether heater is on or off sitting. But if you drive it, it will not open.
    I will be putting on a China complete water pump housing. It wasn't what it was listed as, but seller refunded my money and told me to keep it. They tried passing it off for another brand. If this happens to solve the issue, I'll be ordering a better quality assembly.

  8. #7
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Have you checked all orifice's for obstructions physically?
    FYI : Did you know liquid Teflon for gas and water pipe helps aid in sealing at flanges and pump to aid o-ring seat?

    Have you bled the system with a mighty vac?

    Is coolant flow returning to expansion tank & is tank sealed tight with o-ring verified?
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