I second Uwe's suggestion. Measuring drop across fuses is a far better method than pulling fuses, especially on modern cars that take quite awhile to go to sleep and can "wake up" again when some fuses are pulled.
Doing an autoscan of every module is also never a bad idea, you may find that some draws are caused by data bus errors, either from a module sending junk info on the bus and keeping other modules awake or a short in a data bus wire somewhere. Sometimes the alternator itself causes a draw.
There are likely some fuses you haven't found yet either, but without knowing exactly which ones you've checked thus far, I've got no suggestions to give. But for sure give the autoscan a try, post results here, and try checking draws via drop test... just make sure you close the door and hood latch so those can be left open with the system thinking they're closed. Having either one recognized as being open will also result in a parasitic draw.
Speaking of, on some cars the hood switch also has the radio wired to the same thing. Sometimes radios ground out that circuit and make the system recognize the hood as being open, even though the radio is the cause. Measuring values in the convenience module will easily reveal this if the car doesn't have an indicator to tell you the hood is open.
I've had a couple cars with about a 90 mA draw before because it thought the hood was open, then once I tricked it into recognizing the hood as being closed, the draw went below 30 mA like it should....
