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Thread: ACC Retrofit Working (module good), but Not Working (no ACC)

  1. #21
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    My bad - changed byte 26 to "50".

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by downtime View Post
    Found the excel file I made for the swap.

    For Golf this is not 100% as it's missing electronic parking brake pins. Our Leon is 2013 and it did not have EPB yet at that time
    I've shared the file through Google drive :
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDG...ew?usp=sharing

    This looks great, downtime! Thank you very much for compiling this.

    Just to be sure I understand the process: Both ABS modules make use of 20 pins; the harness that is in my car only has 38 pins (to match the 38 pins on my stock ABS module), whereas my new ABS module has 46 pins - correct?

    So, what needs to happen is that I need to move the wire on my 38-pin harness and to the position that corresponds to proper position for the 48-pin module.

    So, for example: My car will be sending 12V/7.5A on wire SB17 down pin 2. But I have to move that to position 31 to match up with my new ABS module

    ...unless I'm misunderstanding, and in addition to the actual ABS module itself, i need the whole connector that slides into/onto the ABS (?).

  3. #23
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    Yes. ESPMK100 uses 38pin connector, IPB uses 46pin.

    In addition to make things difficult, the actual pins that go into the connector are also different. So you need to replace the pins as well.

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  5. #24
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    the 46pin connector part number is 8V0 998 623, and the sealing pin for unpopulated positions will be 5Q0 971 904 (you can also use silicone sealant...).
    my Golf came out of the factory with 13 ECUs. now she has 19. and counting

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  7. #25
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    I used silicone sealant. Works wonders ��

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  9. #26
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    So, do you pop the pin out of the old housing? Or do you simply not bother and instead, just cut the wire and add the repair wire onto that end?

    How did you guys join the repair wire to existing wiring? Solder? Twist-and-shrink-wrap? Butt connectors like these?
    http://www.4130-products.com/index.html

  10. #27
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    No butt connectors. They won’t work for longer period.

    Do not cut the ABS connector wire. Dismantle the connector and cut the wires inside the connector. This leaves you enough slack on the wire to make sure the length is good for the new connector as well.

    I soldered the new wires with correct connectors and used heat shrinks to make the connections water tight. Another option is to use these : https://www.electriduct.com/Heat-Shr...rminators.html

    Those are really good as they make fully waterproof connection.

  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by downtime View Post
    No butt connectors. They won’t work for longer period.
    The correct butt connectors are fine. The key is that they must seal the crimp against moisture, which the ones two posts up do when properly applied with a heat gun.

    Solder is a "better" connection electrically, but the problem with solder is that it flows into the stranded wire and makes it brittle right at the joint. Thus it becomes critical that a soldered connection has good mechanical support. Soldered connections are generally not approved of as a repair by automotive OEMs, and an aviation inspector would have a heart attack if he found wiring repairs or modifications that were soldered.

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

  12. #29
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    For the kids following along at home, the connector (that plugs in to the new ABS module) part number quoted above has been superseded by the following part number:
    4M0 998 046.
    Last edited by Nuje; 09-26-2019 at 03:13 PM.

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  14. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uwe View Post
    The correct butt connectors are fine. The key is that they must seal the crimp against moisture, which the ones two posts up do when properly applied with a heat gun.
    -Uwe-
    Is the proper crimp connector the red one - size 20-22AWG?

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