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Thread: Audi Q7 2014 S-Line; how to disable all lights and minimize power consumption

  1. #11
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetrolDave View Post
    It's quite possible to design a battery with tiny capacity but huge CCA
    Or vice-versa. In fact, it's a trade-off the in the design of almost any battery.

    And of course a test for one characteristic tells us little or nothing about the another one. One can have an old battery that still tests OK for CCA but has lost much of its capacity.

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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    Are you guys saying that the “Battery Aging” as reported by the Q7 should not be relied upon when determining whether to replace the battery or not? Would not this be a value that the Audi dealership would use to recommend whether to replace the battery or not?

    In my case it is not practical to use the best method (charge it fully then discharge it while measuring amp hours). So what is the next best method?

    Do we mean that is is better to just use actual age and if it is more then 5 years, then replace the battery irrespective of what “Battery Aging” value is being reported?

  4. #13
    Verified VCDS User PetrolDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andremi View Post
    Are you guys saying that the “Battery Aging” as reported by the Q7 should not be relied upon when determining whether to replace the battery or not? Would not this be a value that the Audi dealership would use to recommend whether to replace the battery or not?

    In my case it is not practical to use the best method (charge it fully then discharge it while measuring amp hours). So what is the next best method?

    Do we mean that is is better to just use actual age and if it is more then 5 years, then replace the battery irrespective of what “Battery Aging” value is being reported?
    IMHO "Battery Aging" cannot be relied upon as an accurate indication of battery condition (ability to start and hold charge), any dealership that used only this parameter is not a dealership that I would take my car to!

    Actual age isn't a good guide either, battery condition is subject to how it's been used/abused, temperatures it's been subject to, etc.

    I prefer to rely upon old fashioned methods - does the battery hold charge and/or does the battery have trouble starting the car on cold mornings as a guide when to change the battery.

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  6. #14
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetrolDave View Post
    Actual age isn't a good guide either, battery condition is subject to how it's been used/abused, temperatures it's been subject to, etc.
    Yup, and lead-acid batteries hate to be deep-cycled, especially those that are primarily designed as "starter" batteries. Worse is if you let them sit for any length of time in a deeply discharged state.

    That said, a typical car battery "should" last 5-8 years, but there are always exceptions. I've seen batteries go bad in 2-3 years that have no apparent excuse for it (never abused), and others that have been abused last 7-8 years anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by PetrolDave View Post
    I prefer to rely upon old fashioned methods - does the battery hold charge and/or does the battery have trouble starting the car on cold mornings as a guide when to change the battery.
    Yeah, and in the OP's use case, does the battery still have the Ah capacity to do what he needs it to do when he's camping?

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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  8. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetrolDave View Post
    CCA = ability to provide lots of peak current
    Capacity = ability to store lots of energy

    It's quite possible to design a battery with tiny capacity but huge CCA
    Any Lithium-Ion starter battery designed for use in vehicles will fit that description.
    Current:
    2018 Tiguan AD Highline 2.0 BiTDI 240hp > Stage 1+ 328hp
    2016 Polo 6C Highline 1.0 TSI 105hp

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    Thanks guys. I will keep my current battery for now. It does not show any problems during normal use. During camping use I do not think I am using the car in a way it was design for. So no matter how much stored capacity it would have I would eventually depleted it. Ideally the car could just hibernate by persisting all its settings into nvram and I could simply disconnect the battery and reconnect when needed. I will put the car into transport mode and will monitor battery use more carefully next time (or let the car run idle for an hour once a day).

    The Interstate battery I got has a higher CCA and lower aH then the OEM one ([850,80] vs [520,110]), so I am returning it. When the time is to replace the battery, I will go with OEM, or “lifetime autonation” which is also sold by the dealer and has the same specs, but offers lifetime warranty.

  11. #17
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Maybe you should also consider a solar battery charger? There's a zillion of them out there, this is just an example:
    https://www.amazon.com//dp/B0722XB3VQ/

    Note that the lighter plug may no work on your car; I'm guessing the power outlets are switched power? VW/Audi used to have some that had an OBD-II plug. Not sure how much juice they made though.

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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    Hmm, solar is very interesting, I was not aware such thing existed but feels like it would work great for my case. I think the lighter plug should work on Q7 — when I lock the car I can see that the phone is still charging from that plug (as an experiment). So I gather solar panel should be able to trickle charge the battery.

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