02 passat 1.8T no start

04_sti · Dec 17, 2014

Hi. This is my sisters car and she has said its been taking 7-8 secs to turn over but always starts and runs ok but last night, she parked it for about and hour and tried to restart and nothing. I came over and did and auto scan and found similar codes thats its had before and had no trouble starting with. Auto scan below. I checked the fuses and felt the fuel pump relay is working fine. I can smell gas in the engine bay.

Code:

VCDS Version: Release 14.10.0
Data version: 20141022

Wednesday,17,December,2014,16:10:52:24016

Chassis Type: 3B (3B - VW Passat B5 (1997 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 35 36 37 46 47 55 56 57 58 75 76 77
         
 
VIN: WVWPD63B72P443498   Mileage: 249870km-155262miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06B-906-018-AWM.clb
   Part No SW: 4B0 906 018 CM    HW: 8E0 909 018 
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0004  
   Coding: 0016551
   Shop #: WSC 00028 000 00000
   VCID: 6ED3E0267ACAD5518D7-5122

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 927 156 AH
   Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 0810  
   Coding: 0001104
   Shop #: WSC 06411 444 85736
   VCID: 6CD7EA2E4CD62741A33-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8E0-614-111-ASR.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 614 111 
   Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT   D00  
   Coding: 00021
   Shop #: WSC 00028  
   VCID: 53A551D2A1A898B9829-5122

1 Fault Found:
00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45) 
            35-00 -  - 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 909 605 C
   Component: 09 AIRBAG VW61 04   0001  
   Coding: 12345
   Shop #: WSC 00028  
   VCID: 2447C20EB4862F012B3-5104

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 3B0-920-xx5-17.lbl
   Part No: 3B0 920 927 B
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V08  
   Coding: 07235
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 2447C20EB4862F012B3-5104
   WVWPD63B72P443498     VWZ7Z0B5173907

1 Fault Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 
            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
   Part No: 6N0 909 901 
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001  
   Coding: 00006
   Shop #: WSC 00028  
   VCID: 70EFFE5E30FEC3A19FB-5104

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
   Component: 08 Komfortgerát HLO 0001  
   Coding: 00258
   Shop #: WSC 00028  
   VCID: 377D0542151054999E1-4AE4

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801
   Component: 08 Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802
   Component: 08 Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811
   Component: 08 Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812
   Component: 08 Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0004  

1 Fault Found:
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 
            80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 3B7 035 180 
   Component:    Radio NP2        0055  
   Coding: 00401
   Shop #: WSC 00028  
   VCID: 5DB1B7EAD76C5EC924D-5104

1 Fault Found:
00880 - Connection to Speaker Rear Left 
            36-00 - Open Circuit

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:14)--------------------------

Can anyone shed some light. I have no idea what to check. VCDS wont let me do an output test because it apparntly needs to run first. I dont know where to check. I made sure it had enough battery- i hooked it up to my car. It had fuel. I just recently replaced one coil because it was running rough which was about 3 weeks ago. Any ideas please. Thanks

04_sti · Dec 17, 2014

4 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 002 - Incorrect Flow Detected - MIL ON
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System
P1479 - 008 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1
P0420 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold - Intermittent
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 008 - Internal Resistance too High - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

Those are the engine codes. My bad

Uwe · Dec 17, 2014

04_sti said:
Hi. This is my sisters car and she has said its been taking 7-8 secs to turn over

What does this mean? 7-8 seconds of cranking before it fires, or 7-8 seconds of holding the key in the start position before it will even crank (turn over)?

04_sti said:
but always starts and runs ok but last night, she parked it for about and hour and tried to restart and nothing.

Nothing? Does it crank (turn over) but not fire? Or does it refuse to crank?

-Uwe-

04_sti · Dec 17, 2014

Uwe, she said its been taking 7-8 seconds before it would fire/ start up. Meaning holding the key in the start position until it would start. It cranks/turns over right now but will not start. I checked while cranking and its showing 160rpm while cranking. Battery voltage looks ok.

Edit: after 10 seconds or so the oil pump warning light comes on and says stop low oil pressure. Its low on oil but still showing up on the dipstick

Uwe · Dec 17, 2014

Well, none of the faults listed in post #2 strike me as likely to point at a cause for a no-start. That means you have to check the basics; fuel, air, compression, and spark. Remember, VCDS can only tell you what the car knows, and it's not at all unusual for an ECU not to know why an engine won't start.

-Uwe-

04_sti · Dec 17, 2014

Very true. Is there anyway of telling the computer to send fuel to injectors 1-4 through VCDS while out of the intake? The maf is reading 2.7-2.8g/s while cranking. I was able to just get an output test to run and when it got to injector 1, it locked up and said no response from controller. Could that indicate a bad fuel pump? I hear the relay click but im not positive i can hear the pump kick on. I dont have a multimeter with me, i forgot to bring it but it seems like that could be a possible issue.

Edit: does a fuel pump thats dying cause a hard start on most start ups?

jyoung8607 · Dec 17, 2014

04_sti said:
Very true. Is there anyway of telling the computer to send fuel to injectors 1-4 through VCDS while out of the intake? The maf is reading 2.7-2.8g/s while cranking. I was able to just get an output test to run and when it got to injector 1, it locked up and said no response from controller.

Output test is the right thing. Be aware there are certain output tests, injector tests among them, that the ECU will only be willing to run once per ignition cycle.

04_sti said:
Edit: does a fuel pump thats dying cause a hard start on most start ups?

It could be a marginal fuel pump, or a sign you're losing residual fuel pressure after shutdown. There is a check valve that should hold fuel pressure up. On some platforms, and I think that year Passat is among them, the check valve is built into the fuel pump, so you end up replacing it either way. Some people retrofit a check valve in the line if the pump is still good. That said, after several seconds of cranking you should have had enough fuel pump run-time to overcome any lack of residual pressure.

04_sti said:
I can smell gas in the engine bay.

Another way to lose residual fuel pressure is to have a leak in the fuel lines under the hood. That's also a good way to set the car on fire. I'd look into that.

Jason

DrPeter · Dec 17, 2014

Hello,

Very true. Is there anyway of telling the computer to send fuel to injectors 1-4 through VCDS while out of the intake? The maf is reading 2.7-2.8g/s while cranking. I was able to just get an output test to run and when it got to injector 1, it locked up and said no response from controller. Could that indicate a bad fuel pump? I hear the relay click but im not positive i can hear the pump kick on. I dont have a multimeter with me, i forgot to bring it but it seems like that could be a possible issue.

If you want to 'See' if the injectors are functioning while they still are installed, follow these steps:

1) Connect a fuel gauge to the fuel rail, start and run the engine for 5 seconds, key off (if it is a no start, crank for 10 seconds).
2) Key on, engine off, verify fuel pressure is 3-4 bar.
3) Disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel pump, under the cover in the trunk area. (This prevents the pressure for continuing to build as the injectors bleed the pressure down when activated)
4) With VCDS, select Engine, then Output Tests - 03.
5) Activate one injector at a time for 30 seconds, measure fuel pressure loss.
6) Repeat steps 1 to 6 until each injector has been tested.

- An even amount of fuel pressure loss is expected.. If one injector is failing, there maybe little or no change in fuel pressure.

or

1) Start and run the engine for 5 seconds, key off (if it is a no start, crank for 10 seconds).
2) Connect a [Noid Light] (Injector test light) to one injector.
3) With VCDS, select Engine, then Output Tests - 03.
4) Activate one injector at a time for 30 seconds, measure fuel pressure loss.
5) Repeat steps 1 to 6 until each injector has been tested.

hope this helps,

drpeter

pss.. please refer to the workshop manual before attempting any of the above tests, please read and observe any and all safety warnings, be safe .. live long

Jack@European_Parts · Dec 17, 2014

Smell dipstick for fuel entering the crankcase from a hung injector relieving the PSI while sitting.

Do a compression check and see if one of the cylinders is weak........check that one for injector issue.

Unplug MAF, IAT, and ECT to see if starts easier individually and clearing them.
Verify base belt timing and that G28 isn't contaminated from being over filled with oil or fuel dilution........kind of like a candle wick at the actual electrical connector........ inspect for oil.
Unplug both ( OXS ) Oxygen sensors for possible shorts which could be sporadic from damaged heaters, since you mention the prior code for resistance faulty.

Check for broken boots and torn or collapsed vacuum lines causing a gross leak. ( especially right angle hose by intake going to brake booster T )

Zenerdiode · Dec 17, 2014

As we see more and more on this forum, reference to the Workshop Manual for your specific vehicle is becoming a must. When I had my old A4 B5 - AEB engine, Output Tests on fuel injector solenoids would start the fuel pump, but do nothing until you pressed the accelerator (gas) pedal. Then you got five of the tiniest clicks on the solenoid; it would barely deflect the meter, but if you had the injector out it was just enough time to see the injection pattern.

Different cars different software though.

04_sti · Dec 26, 2014

Ok so just to bring this thread to a close, i replaced the fuel pump after verifying that the fuse was good, the relay was clicking on and staying on while trying to start the engine, and that i was getting power to the plug at the pump. I also couldnt hear the pump prime when putting the key to on. So i went ahead and ordered the pump from ECS. Also worth mentioning, i couldnt get the Mahle pump installed with their plastic holder for the pump, so i had to switch out the new holder for the original which said VDO on the side. Something to think about when buying a new one for anyone else that encounters this problem. Thanks for all the help. I also installed a new fuel filter. I think that pump finally quit after my sister ran the car low on gas for the umpteenth time. Again thanks for the help.

james

Lgibson · Dec 27, 2014

What about the fuel smell under the hood?

04_sti · Dec 27, 2014

Not sure. I didnt smell anything unusual after starting and running the engine for a few times. I was quite surprised how quickly the car primed itself after i installled the pump. I loosened and reconnected the hose in the engine bay from the fuel rail and it was baren dry when the OE pump was still in. So i dont know where the smell was originating from. Ill investigate it next time she comes up and i do an oil change. I cleaned the engine bay thoroughly when i did a complete overhaul on the car 1.5 years (summer 2012) so its easy to find drips and leaks. But it still looks pretty clean though so ill have to do a smoke test or something on the vacuum lines and see if i can find something. To be honest though, i really just want her to run this car into the ground for as long as possible. So any minor problems that arise on it, im not going to worry about unless its absolteyu necessary. Too much money has been thrown into this car because it wasnt taken care of properly in the early years of its life. So now its nickel and dimeing my mom and her now. And im left to deal with it. I have my own car and my moms to take care of too!!

02 passat 1.8T no start

04_sti

Verified VCDS User

04_sti

Verified VCDS User

Uwe

Benevolent Dictator

04_sti

Verified VCDS User

Uwe

Benevolent Dictator

04_sti

Verified VCDS User

jyoung8607

FoRT

DrPeter

Ross-Tech Employee

Jack@European_Parts

Gone But Not Forgotten

Zenerdiode

Verified VCDS User

04_sti

Verified VCDS User

Lgibson

Verified VCDS User

04_sti

Verified VCDS User