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Thread: 1999 Audi A6 2.8L - 17746 16684-7 doesn't make sense

  1. #11
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    dhoerl, Glad Jack pointed you in right direction.

    But in the future when determining the side of engine you are referring to. Put yourself in the driver seat! Not looking at the engine!

    "The car runs but really struggles at idle. The left side of the engine (passenger side) seems to be making more mechanical noise than the right (drivers) side."

    That is backwards. Driver side is left. Pass side is right.

    Just imagine yourself sitting in the driver seat when trying to explain what side of car you are referring to.
    Can save you a lot of trouble in the future. Really save you when ordering parts.

    Good Luck

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwtech View Post
    dhoerl, Glad Jack pointed you in right direction.

    But in the future when determining the side of engine you are referring to. Put yourself in the driver seat! Not looking at the engine!

    "The car runs but really struggles at idle. The left side of the engine (passenger side) seems to be making more mechanical noise than the right (drivers) side."

    That is backwards. Driver side is left. Pass side is right.

    Just imagine yourself sitting in the driver seat when trying to explain what side of car you are referring to.
    Can save you a lot of trouble in the future. Really save you when ordering parts.

    Good Luck
    Unless it is RHD!
    Regards HMC

  4. #13
    Verified VCDS User PetrolDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HMC View Post
    Unless it is RHD!
    But the principle of referring to the side of the vehicle as viewed from the drivers seat remains unchanged.

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  6. #14
    Verified VCDS User NZDubNurd's Avatar
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    Perhaps we should start using "Hubwise" and "Widdershins", so the LHD/RHD won't be an issue and everyone will clearly know what we mean?
    Allan
    The R32ran Thread
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    "Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can muffle the sound"

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  8. #15
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    I am just a coal cracker from PA.
    But maybe it's me?
    When in a right hand drive car is a left or right turn actually different?

    Didn't think so....

    Good Luck

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  10. #16
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    Nz, now I am lost, never heard of widdershin, probably wont change my life much if I knew
    LOL.

    LARIMORE

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  12. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwtech View Post
    I am just a coal cracker from PA.
    But maybe it's me?
    When in a right hand drive car is a left or right turn actually different?

    Didn't think so....

    Good Luck
    No, but "That is backwards. Driver side is left. Pass side is right." could be.
    Regards HMC

  13. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by HMC View Post
    No, but "That is backwards. Driver side is left. Pass side is right." could be.
    Regards HMC
    Here in the UK Drivers side is on the Right. And if a passenger sat directly behind the driver then we could say that the RIGHT of the car (When Stood Behind it Looking at it) Is the Drivers side and the passenger side and this would hold water.

    May I suggest it better to use the terminology LEFT or RIGHT in this forum as it is aimed at both RHD & LHD Countries.

    Back to this car.

    17746 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
    P1338 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus

    Being Anal now but that reads to me as the ECU is pushing out either a 5 or 12v bias voltage on the signal wire and the G40 is not pulling it to ground. The ECU will not be able to differentiate between a broken wire (OPEN) or Short To Plus because it is always at PLUS so possibly shorted. The ECU does know that it is NOT short to NEG. All this is in the ECU for Fault Detection and Reporting.

    Add the Misfires in this car and one hopefully would dig a bit deeper as a faulty Cam Sensor may do many bad things but wont cause the misfires on just one bank.

    So why the misleading Fault Code ?

    I would have expected something like:

    Definition of check engine code P0341:
    Generic (Common for all car manufacturers):
    Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 – range/performance problem

    Not a big deal as I have a Pico Scope with WPS to deal with this sort of thing non intrusively but the answer to this sort of conundrum is good knowledge and education for me.

  14. #19
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    tldr; Good news! The car is now back to its normal self!

    What I did:
    - put the car into the "service position", meaning, pulled the bumper cover off and pulled the front section out 4" so I could get at the crank
    - rotated the crank until it was at TDC and exhaust cam was showings mark aligned with the arrow on the head
    - installed the crank plug to hold the crank at TDC no matter what

    Observed that intake cam was off by one link!

    - attempted to get the cam chain tensioner (CCT) compressor tool installed, but could not as bottom had rotated and could not get it threaded
    - loosened the CCT
    - removed the intake cam sensor from front of engine
    - removed the exhaust bearing just below the CCT (to allows me to better rotate the CCT)
    - completely loosened the intake crank removing all bearing caps
    - tried to get the CCT and intake cam out but failed
    - loosened the exhaust cam bearings (per spec), removing the back 4 caps

    The exhaust cam rises a few inches now, and with that slop was finally able to remove the intake cam and CCT. Poked around and removed as much of the shredded shoes as I could find, which was probably only one shoe at best.

    Both shoes were gone, and the top surfaces scored by the chain. Chain bottom was smooth so did not replace it.
    Had bought replacement shoes on Amazon (2 day delivery!). Filed down the CCT mating surfaces until it was clear that the shoes would fit, then pressed in one side and used a rubber mallet to tap in the other side until it was clear proper mating.

    The #%^&%^&# metal seal that goes under the CCT never stays seated for me and always moves around when re-intalling. So this time I used a small amount of gasket sealer under it, put the CCT over it (with no chain), and lightly tightened it - left it an hour to cure. Finally, removed the CCT, and fiddled with the intake cam, chain, and CCT until I got the proper link spacing and was able to get the intake cam back in position (this takes a while!).

    - re-install the bearing caps on both cams, and lightly torque them down going back and forth using a small amount of torque on each cap until both were more or less seated
    - verified that I had 14 links between each cam (16 if you count the link above each timing marker), then torqued both cams to spec using the proper "start at inside and work to the outside" spec
    - removed the crank plug
    - rotated the crank two full turns to verify that all was well!

    Note: since all oil had leaked out of the CCT, the chain would move high then low when I was manually turning the crank. This bothered me, and I really wanted to crank the engine for a few seconds to get oil back into it before starting, but I couldn't find a way to disable starting. I sort of recall that you can remove one or more of the relays somewhere, but at this point I was tired and it was late Sunday, so I hoped for the best.

    - double checked every cam related bolt I had touched with the torque wrench, to insure I had in fact gotten to every bolt earlier (I had)
    - re-installed the valve cover and dabbing gasket sealer on the four corners both before and after installing the gasket
    - tongued the gasket down, and re-installed the intake cam timing sensor.

    Put everything else back, took car off jack stands, and started it. No codes! Drove it around the block at 25 MPH, no codes! No unusual noise, although it seemed the sounds from left and right valve cover slightly different. Drove another 5 miles or so to the local strip mall, then back. Opened hood with engine running, now the sounds from both valve covers over their respective CCTs is identical.

    NOTE: while installing the crank plug may seem overkill, I wasn't sure when I started whether I'd need to remove the timing chain to do this job. Also, I was not sure if it was possible for the exhaust cam to shift while loosing it. It probably isn't, and I was probably over cautious (and spent another 2 hours removing/installing the bumper cover), but before I cranked the engine I wanted to be 100% sure that the cams were properly installed. YMMV.

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  16. #20
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Sheldon View Post
    May I suggest it better to use the terminology LEFT or RIGHT in this forum as it is aimed at both RHD & LHD Countries.
    I realize this is something of a pedantic digression, but "left" and "right" aren't always the appropriate terminology. If you look at a list of VAG's fault code texts (which I've done at times until my eyes were bleeding), many are "left" and "right" but others are "driver side" and "passenger side". The reason for this is that some things actually do move with the position of the driver's seat depending on whether the car is a LHD or RHD layout. Things like airbags, front door control modules and so on...

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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