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Thread: DPF just cleaned - how to reset things with VCDS

  1. #11
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    OP as long as the DPF is not cracked or blocked it will be most likely fine if just cleaned properly.

    The main cause of failure are internal fires by excessive ash and soot + not properly remediated when trying to do force regen.

    Sebastian is indeed correct on the MAF, not so much with DPF speculation. It is not recommended to do force regeneration procedures for the risk of damage and costs.
    Spend some time doing extra cleaning and thorough inspections usually pays in long run.


    I have cut many DPF's open on band saw and to verify cleaning process quality or for where they crack & depending on what is used and how performed.

    Reverse back flush works extremely well in car.
    I install a block plate by separating the turbo from DPF and then fill the DPF with cleaner to emulsify.
    Then I back flush the exhaust with high psi air and distilled water. I catch everything out the OXS port or EGT ports and hook up adapter hoses to collect remediated material to bucket for proper disposal .

    I am the ultimate scavenger & will get blood from a stone as long as I know what I'm doing comports with qualified repair or better.

    I have seen all to often where someone installs a new DPF to only same problem in short timeline if failed to do properly.

    After a good flush I install a bore camera and take a look.
    Be sure the ports for air PSI sensors are not plugged, because this can throw off particulate levels as indicated in ECU causing false codes.

    Always consider what caused a condition and is your diagnosis the cause or the result.

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  3. #12
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    Hi Jack,

    Thanks for your comments, I have done some research, and feel as you do, that a properly cleaned DPF should go on to serve you many more miles.

    I am wary at this stage of doing a forced regen, am waiting for a normal regen to occur, I really need to reset the DPF values after cleaning, and make an allowance for the miles driven since cleaning (only a few 100 miles).

    I understand the ECU makes a number of calculations based on mileage, driving pattern, and other factors - since last normal regen, I know it recently had a forced regen at the dealers.

    Is there anyway in VCDS to see approximately when the next regen is due ??

    Seems lots use a chemical, with pressured back flushing to clean ... others bake the DPF at over 1000 deg. - to get rid of the ash, I have also found someone who uses Ultrasonic bath treatment, with flushing - which seems quite interesting, and i would have thought the best approach.

    Removing and refitting the DPF from the crafter is not too difficult.

    Large commercial vehicles seem to be made for removing and flushing through the DPF, only with water and compressed air, its like regular maintenance.
    Maybe there is a physical difference in the make-up of a large commercial DPF that allows that to happen, we know these do many 100,'s of 1000's of miles.
    I see there are lots of different types, cordierite, silicon, ceramic etc, is one more expendable than the other.

  4. #13
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Default ECU with recode or re-flash and yeah I like ultrasonic cleaning but It's unneeded.
    Magical chemicals and water and permitting a bubbler of low psi like a washing machine and go have a coffee and read some news article in paper or net.
    People should apply the KISS Method and not over think.
    It's just soot!

    Clean all of it and every sensor.
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  6. #14
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    Clean all of it and every sensor.

    I was quite careful not to clean the ends of any of the sensors, should they have had a clean, and what do you recommend should have been used to clean them, white spirit and a toothbrush, or something more aggressive like carbi cleaner ? they looked as you would expect them to - but no unusual amount of build up.

  7. #15
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Everything no?















    WHY WOULD ANYONE FORGET THE TIPS OF SENSORS TOO?
    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 06-24-2019 at 09:11 AM.
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  9. #16
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    I always believed the tips of Lambda sensors and the like were quite sensitive, so you recommend heat and oven cleaner ... not sure where the distilled water comes in, to wash everything off with ?

    I guess Oven Cleaner can be used on heavily coked up basic parts such as the inlet manifold, I understand it scarifies the surface of aluminium - which when the part is put back on it just coats in carbon all the quicker, not sure that is a huge issue though, saying that I used it on the EGR valve, that had half turned into a lump of coal. I also used it on the inlet manifold and EGR cooler.

    I think on and around the DPF there were 3 or 4 sensors, pressure differential, Lambda and I think some temperature sensors ... it makes perfect sense to clean the sensors - but with oven cleaner ???

  10. #17
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Isn't the distilled water to rinse a solvent?

    Wouldn't you burn a senor tip & cherry red for 2 minutes min, with a propane torch & to remove impurities since burns clean?


    Huh........ what! where?
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
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    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  11. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian View Post
    Cleaning a DPF with this mileage is in my opinion not worth it in the long run - especially if the car did a lot of short distance/city drive cycles. However, now that you've done that, you should be able to reset the ash mass to about 10% of it's original value and perform a forced/service regeneration after that. As Uwe already indicated, the MAF issue needs to be resolved first. For once it may be the root cause for your troubles and second it will likely block DPF related diagnostic procedures like the reset or a regeneration. When replacing the DPF at any later date, make sure to get the proper one. Early Crafter models had DPF Generation 2 from factory, but may have had it replaced with Generation 3 accompanied with a software/firmware update. Based on the data you posted, the software/firmware currently used requires a DPF3. Mixing the newer software with an older DPF and vice versa will also result in poor regeneration results and lacking emissions, as well as a failing DPF.

    As far as the software/firmware levels go, there is an update to 074-906-032-AN @ 5170 available which changes the emission classification from EURO IV to EU 4 (see TPI 2021119 for details), though from regeneration wise it won't do you much good I believe. Aside from that, there is a special short distance software/firmware available (see TPI 2018140 for details) if you truly need that. I am surprised that the dealers never applied that, due to the mentioned issues.
    I have done some trips in the vehicle, city and motorway driving, and the MAF error has not returned, can I assume it was a spurious error ?

    If it was, can I move onto resetting the Values for the cleaned DPF, and get the specific instructions and steps for doing so - I have looked online but find nothing specific for this vehicle.

    "you should be able to reset the ash mass to about 10% of it's original value "

    Without needing to get past any security (which I believe I need to do to make changes) I can read:

    91-LT3 Engine, Long Adaptation: 'Carbon Mass (ECM/DPF Replacement)':

    Channel 12 reads:
    56: Particle Filter Carbon Mass
    Stored Value: 5636

    Do I want to input '563' then enter that as a 'New Value', and press save ?

    "and perform a forced/service regeneration after that."
    It has been suggested to not do this, but if I do, should I replace the oil when done >?

    I am right to think VW have not programmed in a procedure to reset the values- for a 'cleaned' DPF, as they do not want owners doing so ? - I am quite happy to have mine cleaned as and when.

    Thanks.

  12. #19
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    Can anyone answer my above question, ie resetting the ECU for a cleaned DPF, is there a specific procedure I can follow for my vehicle (2008 VW Crafter 2.5 TDI R5).

    I want to avoid guessing and doing more harm than good.

    Thanks.

  13. #20
    Ross-Tech Employee Dana's Avatar
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    Hello Robert,

    We received your email and based on the label file instructions:

    Carbon Mass (ECM/DPF Replacement)
    Engine Speed,(G28)
    Particle Filter,Carbon Mass
    Consumption since,Regeneration
    Distance since,Regeneration

    Carbon Mass (ECM/DPF Replacement)
    After replacing either the Engine Control Module (ECM) or the Diesel
    Particle Filter (DPF) the Oil Ash Volume needs to be adjusted to allow
    proper Monitoring and Calculation of the Regeneration.

    After Replacing the Diesel Particle Filter (DPF) save "0" as new Value.

    After Replacing the Engine Control Module (ECM) the Carbon Mass Value has to be transferred
    from the OLD/ORIGINAL Engine Control Module (ECM). If the OLD/ORIGINAL Value is not available
    the new Value has to be calculated based on the average Consumption which can be found in the
    Instrument Cluster (otherwise assume a value of 7 l/100 km).

    Carbon Mass = Mileage (km) * Consumption (liter/100 km) * Ash Coefficient (0.0046 g / liter)
    .. you could certainly crunch the actual numbers and enter a reasonable value but I think entering 563 [Test] > [Save] would be far better than entering 0 as if it was new (since it was not replaced).

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