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Thread: VW Passat 2008 TDI BKP engine

  1. #1
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    VW Passat 2008 TDI BKP engine

    Hello,

    I'm kind of hoping that somebody with VW experience can help me out with a crankshaft sensor and MRE ring. A long story short;

    Our boss diagnosed the crank sensor faulty because the Passat would not start once the engine warmed up. The crank sensor on this model is not easy to access and requires a long Allen key to reach it after the oil filter housing has been removed. I asked the boss, when the engine was cranking was the rev counter needle moving at all, he said yes, so I said forget the crank sensor and move on...

    Some weeks later the boss says to me, change the crank sensor it is faulty according to his scanner (Bosch KTS) latest platform. I have no problem with Bosch, just the man operating it!

    Anyway after removing the oil filter housing I had not got my long reach Allen keys at work, so I said wait until I return to work Thursday (two days later) and I'll bring the keys and remove the sensor. The boss did not wait and got one of the other lads to try and remove it, and in doing so made a hash of the Allen key head. After numerous attempts at trying to remove it Thursday I gave up, the head of the bolt was too far gone. The car got left. Three months have now last and because we were quite at work the boss asked me to remove the transmission and change the sensor. I advised him that while it is now such an involved job, maybe we should also change the MRE reluctor ring while we have the car dismantled. VW charge around 100 for a crank seal kit, however the boss bought another brand through the after market for around 50. When I opened the box and read the instructions, because they instructions are multi-language I didn't properly understand what the instructions were saying. I saw the illustration that told me to position the MRE ring arrow at about 11.00 O clock position, but the instructions did not say arrow, they just showed like a pointer, which was very confusing because the MRE ring has different marks on it and an arrow. I can see that at 180 degrees apart the MRE ring has missing magnets to advise of a crank position, which I assume is to represent about 90 degrees before TDC, but it is an assumption.

    Now while I have no problem with buying the proper technical information from VW online, my boss won't pay for anything and I'm damn sure I'm not paying for it out my very poor minimum wage salary from him. May I ask please, would anybody be willing to share some data or knowledge about how the MRE rings are correctly positioned when fitted, and what actually keeps the ring in its fitted position when the crank turns as it appears only to be a friction fit around the crank boss that locates the flywheel. Unless I'm seriously missing something here, I've no idea how this MRE ring stays in its fitted position?

    Thanks for reading.
    Every job is important, even the lowliest, and peoples lives very much depend on us all, so with this in mind, let no man delude himself that his work is more important than that of his colleagues.

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  3. #2
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to fire your boss!

    -Uwe-
    Last edited by Uwe; 06-07-2019 at 02:06 PM.
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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  5. #3
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    If you don't have the tools or the correct information you cannot do the job and your boss needs to be told that. There is a technician skill shortage building up in the UK, if you have the qualifications, walk away and get a job with a company that appreciates you, certainly on more than the minimum wage. Where are you in the UK?
    Regards HMC

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  7. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trade Member View Post
    Hello,

    I'm kind of hoping that somebody with VW experience can help me out with a crankshaft sensor and MRE ring. A long story short;

    Our boss diagnosed the crank sensor faulty because the Passat would not start once the engine warmed up. The crank sensor on this model is not easy to access and requires a long Allen key to reach it after the oil filter housing has been removed. I asked the boss, when the engine was cranking was the rev counter needle moving at all, he said yes, so I said forget the crank sensor and move on...

    Some weeks later the boss says to me, change the crank sensor it is faulty according to his scanner (Bosch KTS) latest platform. I have no problem with Bosch, just the man operating it!

    Anyway after removing the oil filter housing I had not got my long reach Allen keys at work, so I said wait until I return to work Thursday (two days later) and I'll bring the keys and remove the sensor. The boss did not wait and got one of the other lads to try and remove it, and in doing so made a hash of the Allen key head. After numerous attempts at trying to remove it Thursday I gave up, the head of the bolt was too far gone. The car got left. Three months have now last and because we were quite at work the boss asked me to remove the transmission and change the sensor. I advised him that while it is now such an involved job, maybe we should also change the MRE reluctor ring while we have the car dismantled. VW charge around 100 for a crank seal kit, however the boss bought another brand through the after market for around 50. When I opened the box and read the instructions, because they instructions are multi-language I didn't properly understand what the instructions were saying. I saw the illustration that told me to position the MRE ring arrow at about 11.00 O clock position, but the instructions did not say arrow, they just showed like a pointer, which was very confusing because the MRE ring has different marks on it and an arrow. I can see that at 180 degrees apart the MRE ring has missing magnets to advise of a crank position, which I assume is to represent about 90 degrees before TDC, but it is an assumption.

    Now while I have no problem with buying the proper technical information from VW online, my boss won't pay for anything and I'm damn sure I'm not paying for it out my very poor minimum wage salary from him. May I ask please, would anybody be willing to share some data or knowledge about how the MRE rings are correctly positioned when fitted, and what actually keeps the ring in its fitted position when the crank turns as it appears only to be a friction fit around the crank boss that locates the flywheel. Unless I'm seriously missing something here, I've no idea how this MRE ring stays in its fitted position?

    Thanks for reading.
    This is what VAG repair literature says: Pressing in sealing flange with sender wheel

    Note
    * the sealing flange with a PTFE seal is equipped with a sealing lip support ring.This support ring serves as a fitting sleeve and must not be removed prior to installation

    *Sealing flange and sender wheel must not be separated or turned after removal from packaging

    *the sender wheel is held in its installation position on the assembly device- T10134 by a locating pin.

    *sealing flange and seal are one unit and must be replaced together with the sender wheel only

    *the assembly device-T10134-is held in its position relative to the crankshaft by a guide pin inserted into a hole in the crankshaft

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  9. #5
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    Thank you to all who have replied. The tool named above I have been searching the internet this afternoon at work and managed to find one or two. the tool was knocking out around 250 average and I thought well I won't be buying that, however I have done well in that I have managed to find a new one for 89, but I am not sure why there is such a major difference in price between the sellers, maybe I have got lucky and bought one from a seller that did not know the true cost of the tool!

    I still have some confusion regarding the fitment of the reluctor ring. I have read on the internet with pictures showing a technician who has fitted these reluctor rings with the tool I have now been forced to buy. The reluctor ring has a hole manufactured in it circumference that locates on the tool. The description I have seen so far advises that the hole in the reluctor ring points to TDC, and looking on my original reluctor ring the magnets have missing magnets at about 90 BTDC with reference to the reluctor ring hole. There is also missing magnets on the reluctor ring 90 degrees around the reluctor in the opposite direction also, thus the ring has missing magnets at 180 degrees apart, which I have not a problem with as it is normal.

    My concern is this, When I use the tool to fit the reluctor ring to the crankshaft, will the tool only fit the crankshaft web in one position! If this is not the case then I must assume that I have to set the engine up on cylinders 1 and 4 being at TDC before I install the reluctor ring using the tool above, and then at this time I've still got an element of doubt about the correctly fitted position of the ring, unless the tool accounts for this!

    I hope I have made sense above, sorry if its confusing!
    Every job is important, even the lowliest, and peoples lives very much depend on us all, so with this in mind, let no man delude himself that his work is more important than that of his colleagues.

  10. #6
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    Just an update on this thread now I've managed to log back in after a computer change. The crankshaft seal installer I purchased and have found that it does not allow fitment of all 2.0 TDI crank seals and their housings, however I was able to use it to locate and position the speed sensor ring. Having now understood how the ring is positioned and fitted, the tool actually is not required and can be fitted using a sleeve, ruler and a depth gauge (DTi) that most workshops have available. Understanding the tool design now I believe it is seriously over engineered for what the job involves, and is not really necessary.
    Every job is important, even the lowliest, and peoples lives very much depend on us all, so with this in mind, let no man delude himself that his work is more important than that of his colleagues.

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