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Thread: P1127 & P0172 - Too Rich codes

  1. #11
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    Thanks for getting back to me Uwe. I thought about those readings, too. A bit opposite to what I thought. I would say yes. It does feel like it’s driving at that HP. I must admit, I may be a bit of a novice at that rating. I’ve either owned cars that had little 4 poppers with 98-180 HP to the opposite, 400 plus HP. Definitely faster than my last Hyundai junk, no offense to anyone, with 180HP with a lot more torque, too.

  2. #12
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    Also, I just did put in fuel system cleaner and MMO like Jack suggested and filled the tank. Have to see how that turns out. I had used a can of BG44 when I first bought it. Figured it didn’t get driven much, so I’d throw a can in to help clean things out.

    Should I be checking LTFT numbers for awhile or wait a bit? After fixing the vacuum leak, I watched them, and they were starting to go negative again. I have watched a bunch of tutorials on that. It makes sense, but I still have questions about it. Anyway, thanks.

  3. #13
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    Hello, I wanted to ask another ? I was watching the videos here and others on Short and long term fuel trim. My Engine light hasn’t come back on as of yet. As I heard from the videos, the LTFT is a slow learner so to speak. It catches up with the rich, in my case, data from the STFT. For sake of discussion, if that unmetered air leak I found was the problem, once fixed, how long would one expect to wait until those LTFT came back to normal range? Just looking for some clarification. Thanks.

  4. #14
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    What air leak?
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    What air leak?
    Good morning Jack,

    I did a smoke test earlier and found smoke coming out of this hose after the MAF. I replaced the clamp and retested. No more smoke from there or anywhere. This link should work. Thanks


  6. #16
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    Try this link Sorry about that. Copied the wrong one. Thanks

    http://i64.tinypic.com/2vx25bs.jpg

    Last edited by Uwe; 04-25-2019 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Added image in-line

  7. #17
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Well that is indeed an air leak post MAF!
    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 04-25-2019 at 12:11 PM.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Well that is indeed an air leak post MAF!
    Yes Sir,

    I just finished taking the N80 purge valve out. It didn't allow air through it. It didn't smell like gas. The resistance was within spec per Bentley book, so I'm going with that is ok. I'm going to change out the engine coolant sensor since it is older and the part is cheap. I guess my last question still is in my mind. With all else being equal, when do you think I should start seeing those long term #'s come back in normal range. Or is there something else I should try and look for in your opinion. Thanks again for taking the time to help with this and others. Appreciate it. Take care,

  9. #19
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Trims change fast and id say within 10 minutes easy.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Trims change fast and id say within 10 minutes easy.
    Ok, I reset them after the hose clamp fix. they zero'd out but long terms went negative again?? No codes yet, though???

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