2007 4.2L FSI MAF codes & trans harsh/flares

Uwe said:

No, it's some Immo-IV variant, using challenge/response from the servers at the mothership rather a simple PIN. The systems in it are very similar to those found in the C6/4F A6, including Component Protection.

-Uwe-

Click to expand...

Ahhh I see, so you need ODIS and the operation is basically performed blindly? as in they do their thing in the background with the challenge/response then it allows the operation?

DANG IT! lol

well thanks for letting me know Uwe

I wish that I worked on more VAG vehicles regularly to warrant the cost of the yearly subscription! I guess I could make an investment into my education by purchasing a pass-through and a week flat rate subscription to mess with it? If I could be approved for an Independent Shop thingy. IDK if I would. I wonder what the requirements are?


I was just curious because I may need to be prepared to reprogram the key(?) and/or just get a new key(?).

Just a note: the key fob has the following numbers on the key fob inside the groove where the key folds into:


0331412123
4F0837220AG
FCC ID YZ3314
315 Mhz
H01.1/S0.53

of course, that is just the shell, not sure if the insides have been swapped of course.

I am having trouble getting the panel off that covers the J518 under the steering column.

Not the one with the ODBII connector and the footwell light.....after you take that odd, there is another piece that covers the rest of the J518

I removed the two torx bits located approximately where those red dots are that I made on the image below

The upper part closer to the gauges and instrument cluster seems like it doesn't want to come off. Am I just supposed to pull really hard? Is it like a push to install pins type thing?



I just don't want to break it LOL

I got it off...you just gotta pull away from the dash like you're angry at it

I was able to unplug and plug in both the connectors on the J518/N360 to hopefully either reset something or cause friction on the contacts for a better connection(?)

and then I went and bought two CR2032 Energizer batteries (there was a CR2025 in there...thinner...same voltage but less capacity presumeably.(?) either way I inserted the key in the ignition over and over turning it on and off to see out of how many tries it would actually start. Before maybe 1/30

After jiggling wires and playing with the J518/N360, and the new key fob battery it seems to at least let it start every time you insert the key into the ignition and turn it to START.(then release the key to the RUN position.

Last like 20 in a row tries it started with the key. Letting the battery charge and the starter cool while I scan for faults and then clear them to see what happens now.

Engine Start button still does nothing and displays "No Key Identified" when pressed. Doors still do not unlock upon approach like they should. Have to press lock/unlock on the remote to lock/unlock(or use the key itself)

Well it is back to having to press and hold either the lock or unlock button on the fob while inserting the key/fob and turning the ignition to START then release the key to spring back to the RUN position. Car starts and runs like that every single time if I follow that procedure exactly... but couldnt get it to do anything at all without pressing and holding the Lock or Unlock button during key insertion and turning. No MMI no cluster boot..nothing.

Can still lock/unlock the vehicle using the Lock or Unlock button on the key fob. I must be standing near the driver door though. Not passenger side....doesnt seem to "reach" Doesnt lock/unlock if I am on pass. side. I havent tested if it locks/unlocks near the rear.

Engine Start button press still results in no response except after a few seconds the instrument cluster center display says "No key identified".

Not really that worried about this ..this week anyways..

Tomorrow we do a trans fluid flush, AT filter/o-ring replacement, and trans pan gasket replacement, cleaning the trans pan & magnets, removal of valve body and install Trans Go SK09D Shift Kit while also checking wiring and sensors in there. Gonna also check the resistance on the solenoids. Will be opening them up to unstick any of them that are sticking or dagging. I have 9 Qts of ATF and two 1 oz bottles of U.V. dye to put in after everything is buttoned up. To potentially locate any ATF leak(s).