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Thread: 2007 4.2L FSI w/ rough idle P0102 P010C Low MAF

  1. #11
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Hello OP and welcome to the VCDS forum.

    Please get verified and post a complete auto-scan with a complete JPPSG
    Given his question, "Would a VCDS HEX-V2 Enthusiast USB Interface be sufficient to diagnose and repair something like this?" I gather he does not have VCDS at this time.

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

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  3. #12
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Given his question, "Would a VCDS HEX-V2 Enthusiast USB Interface be sufficient to diagnose and repair something like this?" I gather he does not have VCDS at this time.

    -Uwe-

    See that OP /\ so maybe you need this link.....?

    I recommend all the bells and whistles myself two thumbs up.........

    https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS

    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

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  5. #13
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Hello OP and welcome to the VCDS forum.

    Please get verified and post a complete auto-scan with a complete JPPSG

    It will help us help you....... you have a ton of faults and posts.

    I would recommend you get a RTFB to search components or perform tests.


    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ir_Information


    https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthr...uot-JPPSG-quot


    Thanks for the reply

    OK after I get out of work today I will get a 1 day Erwin subscription and print everything on my vehicle to PDF, and then I will check all fuses and relays. I have a little experience checking continuity and resistance using a Digital Multimeter...you're right I should check all the basics first! I need to get the proper Torx bit to flip the driver's seat back to check everything under there. I had a T55 which was too big, so today I will also get the proper size Torx bit socket to remove the driver's seat.

    Get verified? D0nt I have to have VCDS for that?

    As far as VCDS..I do not have it yet. I wish that I did, but right now I cannot afford it...hopefully later on this week I can order VCDS and a cable from Ross-tech! Cant wait to play with it lol. This generic scanner is a hit or miss on imports.

    THanks again for the reply

    I was wondering where I could get access to the wiring diagrams, searched a lot but found limited info. The Erwin thing costs money, but has valuable info I am sure. Cant wait to get out of work and print those diagrams to PDF.

    I will update after I have identified and checked all the appropriate fuses and relays I can think of. Already checked the ones under the hood near the cowl on the driver's side of the engine bay.

  6. #14
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply

    OK after I get out of work today I will get a 1 day Erwin subscription and print everything on my vehicle to PDF, and then I will check all fuses and relays. I have a little experience checking continuity and resistance using a Digital Multimeter...you're right I should check all the basics first! I need to get the proper Torx bit to flip the driver's seat back to check everything under there. I had a T55 which was too big, so today I will also get the proper size Torx bit socket to remove the driver's seat.

    Get verified? D0nt I have to have VCDS for that?

    As far as VCDS..I do not have it yet. I wish that I did, but right now I cannot afford it...hopefully later on this week I can order VCDS and a cable from Ross-tech! Cant wait to play with it lol. This generic scanner is a hit or miss on imports.

    THanks again for the reply

    I was wondering where I could get access to the wiring diagrams, searched a lot but found limited info. The Erwin thing costs money, but has valuable info I am sure. Cant wait to get out of work and print those diagrams to PDF.

    I will update after I have identified and checked all the appropriate fuses and relays I can think of. Already checked the ones under the hood near the cowl on the driver's side of the engine bay.



    Great when you get your unit and post your scan I look forward to trying to help as well as the rest of the collective.

    Post your VIN so I can do a config pull for you, it helps you when looking up repair information or options explained a bit.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

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  8. #15
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Great when you get your unit and post your scan I look forward to trying to help as well as the rest of the collective.

    Post your VIN so I can do a config pull for you, it helps you when looking up repair information or options explained a bit.
    Thanks Jack I appreciate it. And everyone. I've always found online forums to be valuable resources when trying to diagnose problems.

    By the way, the VIN number for the vehicle is WA1AV74L17D02612.

    I get out of work in 2 hours, I look forward to checking everything underneath the driver seat! :-)

  9. #16
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    See that OP /\ so maybe you need this link.....?

    I recommend all the bells and whistles myself two thumbs up.........

    https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS

    Yes I plan to get the one that is $199.. with the three vehicle license. If I need more than that I can always upgrade :-)

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  11. #17
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    OK guys...update...

    I found that fuse #13 on the fuse box under the cowl on driver's side of engine bay was blown!

    I dont know how I missed it before, as I had checked every one the fuses there many times. At first glance it looks good, but if you look verrry closely, you can tell that it is blown. I replaced it and it blew again immediately.

    I noticed all this stuff ran off that fuse, which drew my attention specifically to it first:

    Air mass meter -G70-1)
    Air mass meter 2 -G246-1)
    Activated charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 -N80-1) 2)
    Secondary air inlet valve -N112-1) 3)
    Fuel metering valve -N290-1) 2)
    Intake manifold flap valve -N316-2) 3)
    Secondary air inlet valve 2 -N320-1) 3)
    Fuel metering valve 2 -N402-1)
    Oil pressure control valve -N428-3)
    Continued coolant circulation pump -V51-3)
    Fuel system diagnostic pump -V144-1) 2) 3)
    Crankcase breather system shut-off valve -N548-3) only

    So to go back to the idea I had found before in another thread..I unplugged N276 (driver's side HPFR) and cleared all the codes. So far it has not blown again, and most of the codes have not immediately popped back up as they had before I found that blown fuse and replaced it.

    The DTC codes that have returned immediately are:

    (of course) P129B: Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve -N276, Bank 2 Open circuit

    This is to be expected, as I unplugged the connector on N276..so it is at least picking up on the fact that it is now an open circuit.

    and drumroll.....

    P0513: Immobilizer Incorrect Key (1299)
    P01C9: Fuel Rail/System Pressure Bank 2 Too High (457)
    P1479: Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure (5241)
    P08A6: Gear Lever Position Sensor System - Multiple Sensor Correlation (2214)

    That it....I hadnt seen the P1479 before...which is very odd.

    So either the MAFs and 02 heaters and AIR and EVAP stuff will take longer to set a DTC, or they arent coming back. We will see.

    Previously, all those dozens of DTCs would immediately set right after clearing all DTCs with my generic scanner.

    I am optimistic.

    on a side note, upon turning the key forward, or starting the car, the MMI screen used to come on for a couple seconds, maybe 15-20, and then turn off. It would repeat this a couple more times and then not come back on until I drove the car again. Sometimes while driving the MMI screen would randomly being this sequence again and then go blank for the rest of the trip.

    Previously the volume and source buttons wouldnt work on the steering wheel, now they do. Now sometimes the screen stays on the hwole time I am driving....BUT the whole stack of buttons in front of the armrest do not work. I cannot navigate menus and stuff.. MMI is stuck at the phone screen. Telling me I do not have a phone connected etc. So no music.

    Sometimes it stays onf or good..sometimes not.

    I am not really that focused on the MMI right now though...I need the surging at low speed and stops and near-stops to go away. The idle is much much better now...It still falls on it's face when you try and go wide open throttle or anything past like 50% throttle. It feels strong up until then. Like driving around even getting into the throttle a little bit to pass people it feels fine...but as soon as you want more than just "passing" power...it falls flat on its face.

    The auto parts store didnt have an M10 XZN socket I need to remove the driver's seat to access things, I can get that later.
    Last edited by stone4779; 03-06-2019 at 08:09 PM.

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  13. #18
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    Fuse # 13 below is the one that blew taking out the MAFs and stuff with it...



    and just to clarify..this fuse powers the following items according to my fuse box diagram:

    Air mass meter -G70-1)
    Air mass meter 2 -G246-1)
    Activated charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 -N80-1) 2)
    Secondary air inlet valve -N112-1) 3)
    Fuel metering valve -N290-1) 2)
    Intake manifold flap valve -N316-2) 3)
    Secondary air inlet valve 2 -N320-1) 3)
    Fuel metering valve 2 -N402-1)
    Oil pressure control valve -N428-3)
    Continued coolant circulation pump -V51-3)
    Fuel system diagnostic pump -V144-1) 2) 3)
    Crankcase breather system shut-off valve -N548-3) only

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    I am the last thing from an expert, but if you are having all those weird issues engine issues along with the radio/mmi/steering wheel that seems to be a pretty apparent wiring issues.

    With all those different systems, my first thought would be that the vehicle has been through a flood and has internal wiring damage or corruption.

    my second thought would be water damage/leakage from under windshield/cowl area, just based on affecting interior and engine systems.

    I don't know anything about this model or whether there are any known water leakage/damage areas to look at, but that might be a good place to start.

    but I'll repeat I would not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic at this point, so take all that with lots of salt.

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  16. #20
    Verified VCDS User stone4779's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D-Dub View Post
    I am the last thing from an expert, but if you are having all those weird issues engine issues along with the radio/mmi/steering wheel that seems to be a pretty apparent wiring issues.

    With all those different systems, my first thought would be that the vehicle has been through a flood and has internal wiring damage or corruption.

    my second thought would be water damage/leakage from under windshield/cowl area, just based on affecting interior and engine systems.

    I don't know anything about this model or whether there are any known water leakage/damage areas to look at, but that might be a good place to start.

    but I'll repeat I would not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic at this point, so take all that with lots of salt.
    I think that you may be right. I took the MMI controls out and took them apart, and the insides had dried coffee and/or soda inside everywhere...I tried cleaning everything with alcohol and cotton swabs/q-tips. The MMI screen comes on now and stays on most of the time. I am able to use none of the MMI controls though..they still do not work.

    We ordered a brand new circuit board for the MMI controls which gets here Saturday hopefully. I suspect that has a good chance of fixing the MMI controls.

    and yes I have checked the fuse boxes and the amplifier and the spare tire well..all the known places for water to cause problems...I have seen no signs of water intrusion into anything so far.

    Still unable to purchase the Hex V2 Enthusiast quite yet...but soon we will. Hopefully by the end of the month.

    I did replace the G62 coolant temp sensor which is at the back of the engine, in the coolant crossover tube that runs from one cylinder head to the other. Under the throttle body.

    It was/is throwing a P0522 code which indicates a short to ground on that sensor (G62). Replaced it and cleared the codes. The P0522 still returns after a while. So I guess that didnt cure that problem.

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