VW POLO 1.4 16v AFH engine stalling

Hi all

I want to aks for any advice or idea for VW polo 1.4 16v AFH engine and the problems are/was:

1. i got unstable RPM too low around 400 rpms and if i removed the foot from the gas pedal it was immediately shut off but if i keep it 1000 rpms till reaches 90 degrees temp then the idle was jumping between 1000 and 1300 rpms then the car shuts off on the traffic lite. (solved this my stepper motor on the Throttle body was dead so i replaced with new TB and now the idle is perfect 900 rpms) - Solved

2. After the idle is fixed the car cuts out randomly.. its working 5 to 15 mins and cuts out. Unable to start up again until 30 or 40 min pass ..engine cranks but no start. Cause of this symptoms i replace following items ( spark plugs, rotor arm, dizzy cap and checked the cables with ohm meter (they are ok all 4)). The problem still persists and now i noticed one more symptom like my engine works on 3 cyl instead on all 4. Smell of petrol can be felt in the car and outside... at the end under the end of exhaust there is wet stain which smells like petrol. - could be the hall sensor is messing with me? or its the crankshaft sensor? ( solved it was the hall sensor in distributor)

3. Today i replaced the distributor with brand new one (clean out clean in) but after the replacement my cat got 1100 rpm idle after 30 sec idling it went up to 3000 rpms and the rpms are going up and down around 400 or 500 rpms.
-went to repair shop they run diagnostics and there was too much errors with the code "Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent" i dindnt make it to write them on paper nor to take photo with my phone. The guy clear the codes but nothing changed still high rpms .

Any ideas or advice's are welcomed in this enigma

Thanks to all

Cheers

Try and get an AutoScan done and post it here please.

not sure will he give me the log ...and im not sure did he clear the codes but will go to repair shop tomorrow and find out

Gosh, I wonder why the shop was reluctant to give you the data?

-Uwe-

dont know i have to pay 5 eur to give me the log.. its because its idiotic country. I find out by my self that i have short circuit with test light conecting the plus terminal from the battery on one side and the wire with connector on the other ... the test light is on .. i start pull out fuse by fuse when i pull the fuse 12 test light went off and that fuse is for the "Fuel heather automatic carb choke" according to the diagram on the back..so i suppose they are on same cord with the injectors and thats the wires i got short circuit somewhere.