2009 gti 2.0t ccta engine failure

   #1  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
So I got my ccta all back together after a failed timing chain tensioner. Ran flawlessly for 4-500 mile. Last night I pulled up to a stop sign, went to give it gas and it stalled. Went to restart and just got a click. Towed it home, disconnected the accessories belt ad tried to bar the engine over. No luck it seems stuck. Kind of bummed because I was meticulous in putting the engine back together. It gave no warning. No clunk or rattle, just stalled at 900 rpm. I'll check the chain tonight but I'm expecting the worst. If anyone has a spare ccta they would like to part with I'm interested. I have a good gen3 2.0t for trade I'd someone is interested.

I ran a vcds scan and the engine and trans came back clean. No errors.
 
   #2  

DrPeter

Ross-Tech Employee
Ross-Tech Employee
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
1,963
Reaction score
3,616
Location
16.4905° S, 151.7375° W
Hello,

Sorry to hear about that, I had bought a 2009 Passat that has the CCTA engine and it had a tensioner/chain/valve fail too.

I would suggest checking out one of these places, that is if you have them near by ... www.lkqpickyourpart.com

I was able to rebuild the engine even when all the intake valves were bent and the one of the #3 valves snapped and got stuck in the spark plug and locked the engine.

This was my 2009 Passat engine in the post and what inspired me to write up that post...
Audi Volkswagen - 2.0L Chain Drive - P0016 Cam/Crank correlation check



Hope that helps,

drpeter
 
   #3  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
So the end result was a seized Exhaust balance shaft. Luckily, it happened at idle. I pulled it out and the plastic sleeve was melted. Checked the intake balance shaft and it wasn't too far behind. I replaced both units with OEM german parts as well as all of the chains and guides again. I also replaced the cam bridge. Started right up and is much smoother. It was an expensive repair but that is all part of the Vw experience I suppose. Still getting used to the DSG. I've driven manual cars my whole life lol.
 
   #4  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
Somehow I keep deleting my post trying to edit it lol.

So basically I got a low oil pressure light. Checked the pressure
Hot 14 psi
Cold 30 psi

Running Castrol 5w30 synthetic

I added Lucas oil stabilizer as a test and the light stays out now with pressure running around 20psi at idle

I still have this funny noise if I feather the gas in park. From 1000 to2000 rpms the engine feels like it's missing and I can hear noise from the timing cover like the vvt is freaking out. If I mash it blio the throttle it revs right up.

Car has plenty of power as long as I don't gradually ease into it from a roll. I have to drive it a little more agressivly.

I was able to get it to throw a code for camshaft sensor code. I had to really try. Normal driving won't throw a code. Yet.

I'm not sure what's going on but it doesn't give me the best feeling in the world.
 
   #5  

Jack@European_Parts

Gone But Not Forgotten
Professional VCDS User
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
21,923
Reaction score
9,308
Location
Montgomery, NY, USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=57337
Tear down, inspect, measure...... Repair.
Verify no fuel in oil from miss EVAP or HPP/Injector failure.
 
   #6  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
How does the hpp cause low oil pressure and how do I check it?
I'm fairly certain I can diagnose the pcv so in the meantime I'll start there and report back.

I let the car cool for 20 min and restarted. The stutter was gone. The interesting thing is I watched the pressure guage and even at 25 psi the rattling sound kept on then suddenly stopped. The car sounds like a VR with bad guides.

I'll check what you mentioned first, saving the teardown for last.

Thanks for the help!
 
   #7  

Jack@European_Parts

Gone But Not Forgotten
Professional VCDS User
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
21,923
Reaction score
9,308
Location
Montgomery, NY, USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=57337
How does the hpp cause low oil pressure and how do I check it?

Fuel entering oil damages the PSI control or relief valve in oil pump and or thins oil and oil becomes a solvent loosing lubrication quality.

Basically destroys the motor entirely from within and very common on this POS engine design!

This is the main reason on race cars I bifurcate the oil/fuel system from turbo charger and sump and HPP is exclusive, while further re-meditating PCV gases to the air filter pre filter side of box.

I also run a separate gauge on the rail to observe the PSI in cockpit and EGT temp sensors of each exhaust port like on airplanes as this is to indicate a cylinder condition & so I can correct it before a catastrophic condition is permitted.
 
   #8  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
PCV working as far as I can tell.

No fuel in the oil. I have seen this problem before.

I removed the control valve actuator and replaced it, no change

The rattle is definitely coming from the vvt/intake cam. I poked at the control valve with the engine idling and reproduced the noise.

Regardless, the oil pressure issue is the first at hand. Maybe try swapping the pump out before yanking the engine? At least then I can take a look at the crank bearings and see if they are wiped out.
 
   #10  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
UPDATE:

Pulled the pan last night. The pan was clean as a whistle, no debris whatsoever.


Swapped in a newer revision (still used) Oil pump

Installed pressure gauge, noted pressure was sitting at 40 psi cold. Let the engine idle for 10 minutes, varying rpm occasionally.

Pressure dropped steadily, then finally settled on roughly 22-23 psi at idle which is a considerable improvement over 14 psi initially.

Took the car out for a test drive and no low pressure warning light any more.

My giddiness was short-lived however, as the dieseling rattle sound accompanied by the EPC light and hesitation/low speed bucking is still present off idle. If I gun it, its fine. If I keep the rpms up it also fine. In fact cruising at speed you would never know anything is wrong with the car.

It seems that in open loop the system is fine, as soon as it goes closed loop the Vvt starts freaking out ( but only from roughly 1100 rpm to 1900 rpm). I have already replaced the control valve actuator so my next attack will be to check out the actual valve itself and the cam bridge. Its acting like there is a restriction in the bridge. I did replace the bridge with a Bapmic aftermarket unit so perhaps the problem lies within it. I have a good used bridge that I can chop the stupid suicide screen out of and install and see where I end up. This car has been a pretty good learning experience.
 
   #11  

Jack@European_Parts

Gone But Not Forgotten
Professional VCDS User
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
21,923
Reaction score
9,308
Location
Montgomery, NY, USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=57337
FYI: Fuel cleans the inside of an engine very nice and damages plastic screen parts!

Screens in bridge should be discarded waste of time anyway..........cause versus effect!
 
   #12  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
I had a 90 golf that wouldn't start. I checked and checked and cranked and cranked for 2 days. Then it stopped turning over. I pulled a spark plug and could smell gas very strongly. Pulled the drain bolt and gas poured out of the crank case. It was literally so full the engine hydro-locked. This was my first go round with an ecm controlled Vw. I found the issue, burned trace on the ecm board caused injectors to just spray any time the ignition was on. Ended up replacing it and drove the car for 40k before I sold it.

The issue I have now is odd. its like the car has just given up with timing from 1100-1900 rpm. After that its fine. Plenty of power, no smoke, idles smoother than my mk6. I'm going to replace the bridge and cam adjuster today if I get time.
 
   #14  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
Changed out the cam bridge with a used on that was in good shape. Cut what was left of the screen out.
Started the car and let warm up for 15 min
No sign of the sputtering, its gone. Took the car for a test drive and driveabiity has vastly improved. There is no further hesitation. Put 45 miles on it, varying speed, putting along at 1500 rpm ( the worst symptoms occurred here) and its as smooth as a DSG can be.

The BAPMIC aftermarket bridge must simply be too restrictive until the engine build enough pressure to overcome whatever fault it has. Ill be promptly returning it.

In the beginning I incorrectly assumed that the low oil pressure was to blame for both the warning light and the cam/vvt intake problem. I had 2 separate issues that could in fact be caused by low oil pressure. I suppose in a way the cam bridge issue was due to insufficient flow however not at the fault of the pump.

Now the waiting game begins. It always does with a Vw. Your last repair is never your Last repair, especially with the gem of an engine the 2.0t is. Monetarily onlt e=second to gambling only the odds with a Vw are slightly better.

But for now she purrs like a kitten. Or a sewing machine. whichever.

Thanks for all of the help!

Jake
 
   #15  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
So far so good. I'm def feeling a difference between my apr stage 1 tsi and this stock one. It's zippy but kinda feels like a turd in comparison to the tuned car. I guess APR isn't all hype. I don't think I'll tune this one though. Need to hook up a boost guage to see if the turbo is spooling correctly. I hear zero boost let off unlike my mk6. Is this normal?
 
   #16  

Uwe

Benevolent Dictator
Administrator
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
48,925
Reaction score
33,652
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
HC100001
Need to hook up a boost guage to see if the turbo is spooling correctly.
Why not just log actual and requested pressure with VCDS?

-Uwe-
 
   #17  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
Why not just log actual and requested pressure with VCDS?


-Uwe-

Touche!


You know...I've been working without vcds for so many years I don't even think about stuff like that ha ha. I'm used to watching pressure differentials on mechanical guages. I keep forgetting this wonderful software makes the car it's b#tch.

Thanks!
 
   #18  

rabbitpower

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
22
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=310688
Sorry for the double post but for some reason on the mobile format edit post just deleted my entire post.

How do I find which measuring block the turbo uses. Does it monitor manifold pressure and wastegate operation?
 
   #19  

Uwe

Benevolent Dictator
Administrator
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
48,925
Reaction score
33,652
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
HC100001
Back
Top