2.7t O2 and misfire DTC

   #21  

topest_rex

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Fuel PSI and volume tests can be observed in RTFB

yeah, i know..:banghead:... i ended up going to a site that someone (likely you) mentioned a while back and paid $35 or something for 24hr access and basically pulled down the whole repo, but while going through the repair manual i didn't notice any testing stuff. i should get the bentley though.
 
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   #23  

topest_rex

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howdy yall. had to take a sabbatical due to work et. al., but i've gotten back to testing.

- injector spray pattern is good and produces a pretty cloud.
- all new plugs
- replaced #1 coil and no change
- compression test == #1 ~ 155psi ; #2 ~ 165 ; #3 ~ 160 ; #4 ~ 130 ; #5 ~ 165 ; #6 ~ 95

Corollary:

can i do a wet compression test on #4 & #6 to see if rings are bad?

I also need to still test the leads and grounds
 
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   #24  

topest_rex

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also, i was wondering if you could direct me to the D22 (over fuse 234), in wiring harness, front. i have discovered a burnt heater wire on B1S1 which goes to that lead and i would like to replace with 18ga wire from advanced. so, i was figuring to just wire it in after the fuse.

besides that, all the leads to the OXS's are good down to the sensors themselves.
 
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   #25  

Jack@European_Parts

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Change OXS sensors and post the WD for request aforementioned.
 
   #26  

topest_rex

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will do. i was wondering, may i still take you up for the offer on the components?

also, what is your opinion on the compression values? should/could i do a wet test with a little bit of oil to see if it seals the rings to either implicate them or not for the low pressure?
 
   #27  

Larry Manton

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howdy yall. had to take a sabbatical due to work et. al., but i've gotten back to testing.

- injector spray pattern is good and produces a pretty cloud.
- all new plugs
- replaced #1 coil and no change
- compression test == #1 ~ 155psi ; #2 ~ 165 ; #3 ~ 160 ; #4 ~ 130 ; #5 ~ 165 ; #6 ~ 95

Corollary:

can i do a wet compression test on #4 & #6 to see if rings are bad?

I also need to still test the leads and grounds


topest_rex Regardless of wash down or what ever, #6 does not technically have enough for a fire event, IMO. Could oil it some and see if it looks like rings or not.
 
   #28  

Jack@European_Parts

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will do. i was wondering, may i still take you up for the offer on the components?

also, what is your opinion on the compression values? should/could i do a wet test with a little bit of oil to see if it seals the rings to either implicate them or not for the low pressure?


YES to both and fuel from misfire has probably washed the rings, so yeah coat them with oil and see if you can get them back.
 
   #29  

topest_rex

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i've just did a wet test on the #6 cylinder and have gained another 20psi. so, i would assume that the ring has washed out leading to low pressure

SE6bE3T


the D22 connector over fuse 234 is what i'm looking to tap into with a new wire.
 
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   #30  

Jack@European_Parts

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Soak the zylinder with KANO "kreen" then light oil like marvel mystery oil.

Get a handle on the wiring and let me know if I can help
cc9ae8d4-87e0-41b1-9409-9a15ea26e369_1.dfa740bdee79629b435da16507aa07af.jpeg



5Udli.jpg
 
   #31  

topest_rex

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would you happen to know where one could buy the kano? i've called the big box part stores and the local ma & pa and no go.

i suppose that ordering it from the manufacturer is the only recourse?
 
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   #32  

topest_rex

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also, i was still wondering where i might find the junction point for the (at least the) B1 & B2 sensor 1 for the lead coming from the D22 hot to test continuity?
 
   #34  

topest_rex

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Ok that's what I figured. Also, I found the grün/gelb wire by doing exploratory surgery on the harness and found the single junction wire running to a clip behind the ECU. I have continuity there also. Just putting that up for completeness sake. I'll be getting the OXS's out and will be sending them in soon.

The one question that I have about that is the mention on a fuse 234, in the harness I think.

I believe that I posted the WD a couple posts ago but didn't see it up. I'll look again and if not I'll try to repost it
 
   #35  

Jack@European_Parts

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Make sure you ref all locations for yourself on OXS sensors!

What is your specific question on this fuse?
 
   #36  

topest_rex

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My specific question about the fuse 234 is that, is it in the harness and if not where might I locate it, just to check its viability?
 
   #37  

Jack@European_Parts

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Show me this alleged fuse in a picture of WD you have posted here please & not via a link.
 
   #38  

topest_rex

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never mind about the WD. i sort of misread it and it was giving me the location of the connector. over fuse 234. i was working ahead of a storm and got discombobulated. lol

btw, i've taken out the OSX's and am getting them boxed up with the ECU and MAF to send in. i believe that those three things were it, right?
 
   #39  

Jack@European_Parts

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never mind about the WD. i sort of misread it and it was giving me the location of the connector. over fuse 234. i was working ahead of a storm and got discombobulated. lol

btw, i've taken out the OSX's and am getting them boxed up with the ECU and MAF to send in. i believe that those three things were it, right?

Yup!

One thing!


OXS = Oxygen sensor ( A very old Bosch Acronym showing my age ) Here is a picture for the ones that doubt me >

10-24_OXS_1_Lighton.jpg
 
   #40  

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Yup!
One thing!
OXS = Oxygen sensor ( A very old Bosch Acronym showing my age ) Here is a picture for the ones that doubt me >
Haha! Do you remember the very first VWs that had Oxygen Sensors? The also had a mechanical "counter" box in-line with the speedometer drive cable that would turn that light on every 30,000 miles, to tell you to change the sensor. Instead of buying a sensor every 30,000 miles, I built a monitor for it (LM3914 and 10 segment LED bar graph) so I could tell whether (and when) the sensor was working. It took several minutes for those old single-wire, non-heated sensors to begin to work after a cold-start. But they lasted a great deal longer than 30,000 miles!

-Uwe-
 
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