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Thread: Bleeding brakes advice

  1. #1
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    Bleeding brakes advice

    My car is an Audi A8 4E and recently I installed new pads and discs all round. While doing the work I noticed that the short brake line connected to the front caliper from the flexi line was corroded. Thinking it may be an inspection failure I decided to replace this short pipe on both fronts. They were that corroded they broke when I removed them. The flexi pipe was capped off with a bleeder screw so fluid did not escape. I don't have the tools to bend pipe so bought original from Audi, less then 9 for each so very reasonable. Then I had to wait as no UK stock. In the meantime I cleaned the calipers. Parts arrive, attach the front calipers, bleed them. And this is where I may have messed up... The brake fluid reservoir went just below the min and I may have air in the master cylinder, and I do have a spongy pedal. Reading the general internet most say to remove the MC and bench bleed. Reading VW/Audi forums about master cylinders people have just bleed on the car with no problems. The ABS is ESP 5.7 in the A8 4E. So should I just connect up my pressure bleeder and flush the system and few times with new fluid to remove the air?

    The only brake bleeding info from Elsa is below, and there's no mention of pre priming a new MC before installation.

    Unlike ESP 5.3, ESP 5.7 does not incorporate hydraulic pump -V156-. It is therefore not necessary to bleed the pre-charging pump with the diagnostic tester.
    Just to add for Uwe and RT, second time I've used VCDS for rear electronic brake work/pads on the 4E with no problems at all
    Last edited by mattylondon; 05-29-2018 at 05:05 AM.

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  3. #2
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattylondon View Post
    So should I just connect up my pressure bleeder and flush the system and few times with new fluid to remove the air?
    I would start there and if it call it good if it fixes the sponginess.

    If not, you could try running the pump via Output Tests (not 100% sure whether the module supports it though), and another tactic is to find a slipper surface such as a gravel road or wet grass, where you can force the ABS into full activity without tearing up your tires.

    -Uwe-
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    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Bleed brakes manual strategy & while the car is running at idle.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Thanks for the reply Uwe and Jack. I'll have time this coming weekend to get the system bled. As for the output test, I don't want to try that as the 4E gets that odd error code in the ABS module. Other A8 owners just can't clear it.

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00003

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    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Gravity bleed sometimes help things work out well........
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic! No Written record, AUTO-SCAN or Appointment = NO HELP!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email or call facility for free tech support...use the forum )
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    Pressure bleed the system at 2 bar.
    In this order.
    1. n/s/f
    2. o/s/f
    3. n/s/r
    4. o/s/r
    Then you will have a perfect pedal.

  12. #7
    Verified VCDS User a4bill's Avatar
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    Just something that came to mind while I was reading this thread.. does anyone think a pneumatic brake bleeder would work on these cars?
    I used to use mine on my older Porsches and it was a godsend.

    Thoughts?

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