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Thread: Passat B5 starts and idles but no throttle until warm

  1. #91
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    Pictures successfully posted.
    this morning I will recheck part numbers for idler, tensioner, water pump, and belt.
    The keys are from Metalnerd. The last pic shows key in place and the first pic with key removed showing orientation of mark on crank sprocket.
    The pin fro the cam sprocket is definitely seated all the way in.
    I'm tensioning the belt by turning cam sprocket counter-clockwise, ie tensioning the water pump side.

  2. #92
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Nothing in those pictures indicates a key-way inspection.
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  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack@European_Parts View Post
    Nothing in those pictures indicates a key-way inspection.
    Please enlighten me, what is, and how does one do a "key-way" inspection?

    I just checked all the part numbers and everything is correct. The timing belt has the correct number of teeth.
    The complete timing belt kit and tools were bought from Dieselgeek.

  4. #94
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    What he's trying to say is you need to remove the crank gear and check behind it there's a key way over there that holds the crank gear in the correct position, has that been damaged. I don't know if you have a crank holder from that picture but you definitely need a crank holder to get that bolt on and off unless you use a impact gun, which isn't the right way to put it back on but you can take it off of with a impact gun.
    Last edited by ivagp; 06-29-2017 at 07:00 PM.

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  6. #95
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    if you're careful and you have some experience you could do it another way is to remove either number one or number four glow plug whichever one comes out easier. And turn the crank to top dead center, watch the height of the gadget that you put into the hole you need to find the highest point and that should be TDC

  7. #96
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    If you do it that alternate way be careful not to break anything inside the chamber or else you'll be in deep smelly stuff.

  8. #97
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    Because I don't have the proper tools to remove the crankshaft sprocket I checked the key-way per ivagp's suggestion through the cylinder one glow plug hole. it's very clearly TDC when the crank sprocket is locked into position with my metalnerd tool.

    I called Dieselgeek yesterday to inquire if they've had any problems with their timing belt kits and/or alignment tools. No problems.

    I replaced the timing belt this morning being super methodical and attentive, making sure to tension the water pump side of the belt. I then triple checked the alignment (rotated the crank two times around) then placed the cam and crank alignment tools, and they slid in easily and smoothly all three times. I tightened everything down to proper torque and started the car- same old thing, rough idling around 500rpm and no throttle response. Torsion was 0.5, timing very advanced, etc., etc.

    Then I decided to move the cam pulley to experiment with different Torsion values. I moved it to the position shown in the picture below, started the car and it fired right up, settled into a smooth idle at 903rpm, AND the throttle worked perfectly, revving smoothly to 3000rpm. The torsion value showed 4.4! WTF?

    Anybody? Should I move the cam pulley a whole tooth? If I move it one tooth the cam pulley bolts will be at the edge of their slots- is that OK?
    [IMG][/IMG]

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  10. #98
    Verified VCDS User Zenerdiode's Avatar
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    I think you have found your problem; and Jack (once again) was on the money all along. A few posts back, Jack asked you to check the keyways. Please read this. A key and keyway keep a sprocket in perfect alignment (or 'time') to a shaft.

    So in your case, the crankshaft sprocket and crank maybe in perfect alignment; (and pistons perfectly at TDC) the belt is in perfect time to the camshaft sprocket - however, if the camshaft/sprocket key is missing, misplaced or damaged, the camshaft will not be in time/alignment with the sprocket. Therefore not in time with the rest of the engine - even if the belt and sprockets look that way. This is why shifting a tooth is making it run much better.

    As well as the 'straw in the cylinder' to verify TDC; you need the cam cover off to verify the lobes of the camshaft are where they sould be for TDC too. Or check the keyway, as Jack said...

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  12. #99
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    Another issue I've seen in this vein that can cause problem here is damage to the signal ring on the back side of the cam hub.

    These can be damaged if you don't have the correct puller to pop the cam hub off the tapered nose of the cam.

    Might also be a good idea to verify that the cam hub is the correct one for the application. Should be part number 038109239

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  14. #100
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    their are no key ways on that cam

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