2009 Jetta 1.4TSI CAVD Low oil pressure

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Crasher

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Yes the same as this one. On a rebuilt engine I get annoyed if I don't see 5 Bar at 2K when cold and 1.5 Bar at hot idle. The VAG spec of 2 Bar @ 2K to me is WAY TOO low and I want to see at the very least 3 Bar but I am not seeing even 1 Bar!!! I have the whole engine in bits and can find nothing wrong so I have sent the oil pump to be tested.
 
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naushad2982

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I've tried 4 different pumps so far. 2 new, and 2 used genuine ones. Same symptoms.... I've split my engine apart again. Want to smoke test the block and all the oil paths upto the oil pressure switch
 
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Same here, used genuine and new, no difference and low to no pressure, I need to do the smoke test as well. Good luck.
 
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I plugged all the oil gallery points and put a vacuum gauge and pump on the main oil gallery and it pulled 28 inches which held for hours. I bought a new engineers straight edge as my old one is getting rough and I can measure 0.08mm sinkage in liners 2 and 3 longitudinally across the block
 
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naushad2982

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Have you noticed any wear on the valve cover journals for the camshafts?

I think the oil is bleeding off there before it gets to the pressure sensor
 
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naushad2982

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Confirmed! my fault is now fixed. just come off a long road test, and no oil pressure warnings anymore. as suspected the oil pressure was haemmoragging off the camshaft journals before it got to the Oil pressure switch at the end of the oil circuit.

that explains why my Main bearings and Conrod Bearings werent showing signs of oil starvation and were only blackened and had the coating worn down.

may also explain why your oil pressure on the lower half was higher @crasher.
 
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It is a used replacement but is still s suspect. I made up a tube with heat shrink on an aerosol degreaser can and sprayed it into the journals, on the inlet cam it will barely pss blowing back out at you but on the exhaust it just sprays out sideways. One interesting point I have come across is that if the oil pump or pickup are replaced for the revised version then the turbo oil feed pipe should also be replaced. This is stated in ELSA but in ETKA only mentioned for the pickup but not the pump, I am trying to find out more. The block is built back up now but I am stuck waiting for the tool to fit the crank oil seal so I can put the block on the build frame.
 
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naushad2982

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Which tool do you mean? If its the rear crankshaft tool to position the impulse ring then thats easy to install without the tool. Just make sure cylinder 1 is on tdc, the install the ring with hole facing 12'O' Clock. Also make sure the ring is flush with the crankshaft face all round. Been doing it like that for years without issues
 
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I have the early tool but not the late one, I usually borrow it from a friend and he borrows mine but I want my own, I have seen too many cases of people not fitting it correctly and I am building this engine surgically, right down to plastigauge checking all nine crank journals; I am leaving nothing to chance.
 
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Confirmed! my fault is now fixed. just come off a long road test, and no oil pressure warnings anymore. as suspected the oil pressure was haemmoragging off the camshaft journals before it got to the Oil pressure switch at the end of the oil circuit.

that explains why my Main bearings and Conrod Bearings werent showing signs of oil starvation and were only blackened and had the coating worn down.

may also explain why your oil pressure on the lower half was higher @crasher.
Hi, how did you resolve this? I have a similar problem with the same engine code?

Many thanks

James
 
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I have come down to the cam carrier, i did a smoke test though the oil pump, nothing came past the exhaust cam but smoke plumed out of the inlet cam end journals, new cam carrier on its way.
 
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New cam carrier fitted a smoke test showed little difference in the flow past the inlet cam end journal. I put the engine in anyway but only installed it enough to crank it over on the starter with a fully charged battery and STILL only have 1 Bar at 280rpm (measuring blocks) which is not anywhere near enough, two other engines I have recently built showed 3 Bar under non start cranking when I tested them as a reference. The only parts not replaced are the inlet cam (journals checked and to spec), crank (journals checked and to spec), rods (pin bores checked and journal bores checked, block and the chain cover, all of which have been minutely inspected and cleaned obsessively. I built the bottom end up with Plastigauge checking of each of the nine crank journals, all were to as new spec 0.050mm>0.063mm. I don't understand...:confused: The engine is now built with these parts using Red Line assembly lube and the correct genuine selanats on the cam carrier, chain cover gasket and sump.

Everything spotlessly clean, block hot tanked, honed (absolutely no bore wear, still to OE spec) and top skimmed (it had a 0.08mm distortion), all galleries rodded through with cleaning rods.

Nüral pistons (revised design with thicker ring lands), rod pin bores checked, virtually 0 rock, the pins are pressure fed from the crank.

Genuine oil pump tensioner set

Febi pump chain

Febi full cam chain kit with VVT hub (looks genuine, VAG number ground off!) and oil feed tube

Febi VVT actuator valve (twice)

Genuine injector Teflon seal kits, fitted with the correct tools

Elring gaskets right through inc metal head gasket and head bolts

All other fasteners new genuine such as crank and rods as required (BIG pile)

Genuine diamond crank washers, Oil seal sleeve and “O” ring

Genuine between block and head oil strainer

Genuine revised design oil filter

15w/40 mineral oil to VAG spec

Professionally rebuilt turbo (oil pressure tested with this out of circuit, made +0.1 Bar increase)

Genuine water pump

Plugs and coil packs

VDO manifold flap motor

Febi Fuel pump tappet

Genuine piston cooling jets, revised design

Febi oil cooler

Glyco rod bearings (Plastigauge checked)

KS main bearings (Plastigauge checked)

Genuine thrust washers, feeler gauge checked at 0.15mm thrust

Genuine revised cam carrier

FAI exhaust cam

INA roller fingers

Genuine FULL cylinder head with equaliser elements

Genuine oil pump, “O” ring and revised design pickup

Genuine turbo oil feed pipe

Febi crank flywheel oil seal pressed on with the genuine tool

Genuine oil gallery plug

Really this is getting silly!

 
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   #33  

siLc

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15w40 isn't too thick for this engine? Shouldn't 5W30 or 5W40 be used?

Otherwise good luck with your endeavour.
 
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We have tried 5w/40 Quantum Platinum, 5w/30 Platinum Plus and Longlife 3 5w/30 and 5/40 before we stripped it down AGAIN and it made no difference but with new pistons and honed bores I don't want bore glaze so initially I used Millers 10w/40 Competition Running Oil but had the same problem. The oil I am using is approved to VW 501.01 and 505.00. In theory 5w/30 should make it worse as it is thinner. It is empty again now with the sump off whilst I decide what to do next. Thank you for your input.
 
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To add to this I removed the block and box, stripped the block down to a bre unit with the rear oil galley core plug out and measured the top deck with a straight edge and found it was 0.08mm low in the middle. The block was decked, honed and hot tanked by the engineer and they are checked the crank and polished it stating the journals were to as new spec and check the rod bores for out of round... everything perfect. I rebuilt it with KS mains, glco rods and Plastigauge checked each of the nine journals, all were spot on 0.063mm on the manis and 0.05mm on the rods. I used a new genuine oil pump and pick up pipe as per ELSA (and the turbo feed pipe late) and built it back up with a genuine new full cylinder head and all Elring gaskets and new genuine followers and a new genuine cam carrier, smoke tested and vacuum tested the entire assembly and put it in the car. Not fully installed but at the point I could crank it over I got a full 2 BAr oil pressure at 270 rpm (VCDS measuring blocks).. excellent. Then I decided to just check the crank timing and found it was a little out of spec and I know these ECU's are fussy so I pulled it all down again and reset it and rebuilt it with yet another new gasket, diamond washers and rank bolt. This time the cam timing was perfect, blocking pi set, TDC number 1 and genuine locking plate straight in. However on cranking it up I had lost over half my oil pressure and that is where I am now. I am now at the point it is the chain cover as it acts as a manifold for the oil from the pump to the filter and back again into the block but a smoke test shows barely a whisp except from where you would expect.

 
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   #36  

naushad2982

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I replaced both cam carrier and Camshafts. mine were used but both off the same engine. I can see on yours only the cam carrier was replaced. Maybe line-bore is off? did you try to redo the smoke test with old shafts and new carrier? also maybe ask machine shop to check the line-bore on the carrier with the cams.

Had a mercedes once that had a new camshaft and didnt sit quite right.....
 
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New genuine revised cam carrier and FAI exhaust cam. I repeated the smoke test and the inlet cam still flowed about as much smoke out of the timing setting hole as before but I reasoned that must be normal and anyway there is the end cap to stop it going anywhere. I had also measured the inlet cam journals and found them to be perfect to new spec and actually 0.02mm bigger than the ones of the new FAI cam which passes barley any smoke. I looked into buying an internal micrometer but it was nearly £1k even for a cheap Chinese one. Both cams were very smooth to install.
 
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I have a set of those and it checked OK but I would have liked the accuracy of a proper digital deep reach (for the centre bore) vernier 3 point bore micrometer would give but they are daft money and with it being a new genuine carrier I assume (never assume, always check) that it is to spec. My gut feeling is it is something to do with the chain cover but a new one is £500 so it is an expensive gut feeling.
 
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