P0299 for the TSI engines, great video by Humble Mechanic

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Jef

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A very good video on a "common" issue with the 2.0T TSI turbo engines.


Also has excellent cameo appearance by VCDS-Mobile in there as well.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Nice video, however, doesn't address the heart of the matter & which is a stupid design flaw!

Turbo chargers changed due to P0299 code.......... is lack of experience in correcting an issue, verse just changing it with the same shit part!

My favorite fail in the repair industry!

FACE PALM! :facepalm:

If you run into a turbo charger that exhibits this stupid condition, do the following in the car first!
Do not change the turbo charger further being a moron wasting money!

Cut the waste-gate rod close to the actuator air motor, than leaving about 13MM of rod.
Remove air motor and bench....

Now the rod swings down limp and can be threaded with a socket die in the car carefully.
Now thread the other side on bench.

Now that you have threaded both, cut the rod in the car about 10 MM with a straight air saw or manually & with a nut already on the threads to guide you and used as a reverse chase to clean the threads.

Now install a nut on the air motor and in the car with actuator air motor unsecured still & install a coupling nut and tighten it, further shorting the distance by 2 MM approximately or until spring pull tension is achieved to seal the WG valve.

Now tighten the jam nuts against the coupling nut.

Takes about 15 minutes for a pro and about an hour for a guy that never did it.
Parts add up to the hardware store or Wurth supplier + tools you should already have in your box or will soon add.

The whole issue is really just a weak spring due to being in a high heat transition location for induced wear!

If you don't do this with a new turbo charger & while it's still on the bench, you have my permission to consider yourself an idiot!

I should add that the same can be achieved by slotting the mounting holes of the WG actuator air motor and pulling it back to make a tighter basic setting position. ( Works like 90% of the time )

Amendment with walk on water action

Now a cheap ass fix at a total of "30 seconds" is to add an external spring, from lever at charger; to a bracket of your choice & to stiffen the hold of the WG valve that is currently weak!

A quick link to what a couplings nut is.....
https://www.google.com/search?q=cou...VJYyYKHU9GDJwQ_AUIBygC&biw=1200&bih=646#spf=1


Just look at any old 1.8T had a threaded setting on the WG air motor .......just add one!

Tried and true for over 100 repairs tested for saved turbo chargers and an enhancement for the guy who is into real mods at the race track!

See now if I posted this in the "Whoretex" It would of been vacated because it would interfere with selling new parts for advertisers..........screw that!

NostraJackAss Has Spoken!

A quick review of sponsors .........?



 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Still my favorite part of that video aforementioned, is the fact the wrong fault code is referenced in the beginning of it.
When watching the other MK7 video he describes, the WG in that type turbo as a means of controlling boost lag instantly & when it isn't a VNT.

Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taAF30GaVMk

Otherwise for NON VNT WG :::::::
FACT : A WG is used to control boost at peak boost being made first & by using boost in order to do it electronically switched ..........so I guess I am wondering where he got that from. :cool:

Again see the sponsors.........
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Don't buy a new turbo for this condition and consider a universal WG air motor such as this as an example not endorsed seller.



Drill two holes in old bracket once benched and set the tension.

These springs are much stronger too, for guys that want to run higher boost levels for the race track competition or valid stock setups.

Can be found for under 50 USD on the cheap........
 
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troystg

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Hi,

You don’t mention what size coupler is needed. May I assume that it is different sizes on different turbos? Any way to find out what size is needed without removing the turbo?
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Measure the rod, thread it & install coupler for size threaded. Usually 5 or 6mm but some use American stuff so whatever you want.
 
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hackman162

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Hello Jack,

It is a little difficult to understand what you are saying. Once you get the P0299, the error can be "Fixed" by doing what you recommend? There is a LOT of play in my wastegate. How will shortening the rod get rid of this play? Doesn't it have to do with a worn bushing? Forgive my ignorance. I am close to oredering up a new turbo and replacing it. Would love to get away with a cheap fix, if it is indeed a "FIX".
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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You can do a few quick things, add a new external WG spring, literally a spring by drilling two small holes or a coupling as aforementioned, but if air motor is indeed still good only, most of time it is just weak or rod too long.
The tension of the spring is the real problem not the bushing. Unless you feel or see an exhaust leak trace?
FYI

Bushing for loose appearing point is there cold but as the cast expands due to heat becomes tight.

So you have exhaust leak trace?

If you had aviation turbo prop experience at altitude changes for a WG bootstrapping, you would understand real fast since in planes we monitor temp in each cylinder and the turbo plus manually adjust a mixture for this.
 
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Jack, could you be as so kind to put together a video detailing this information... or at least a photo Step-By-Step guide.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Jack, could you be as so kind to put together a video detailing this information... or at least a photo Step-By-Step guide.
Yeah Nah, Why, what is so hard to understand in the aforementioned?

You do it Jef, I'm not so great at making videos, but you indeed are and further you have a great clear narration voice.

Maybe I will take some pictures of what can be done for the off road competition race track, otherwise if under useful life warranty, it should go to the dealer for free labor and all new parts.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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There are two other alternate things that can be done here & so I will just describe them.



One could weld a plate within the down-pipe to install a spring with guide bolt to hold the WG closed tighter and contained within it or drill a hole in down-pipe and weld a sleeve on it, then install a guide rod, so an external adjustable spring could be installed in same location aforementioned but can be dialed in easier from outside the down-pipe.


Please tell me this stuff makes sense?

There are many ways to make things work or do a repair but none of these are "qualified repairs" & should be considered for off road use only.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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There are three other alternate things that can be done here & so I will just describe them.



One could weld a plate within the down-pipe to install a spring with guide bolt to hold the WG closed tighter and contained within it or drill a hole in down-pipe and weld a sleeve on it, then install a guide rod, so an external adjustable spring could be installed in same location aforementioned but can be dialed in easier from outside the down-pipe.

or

One could remove the air motor bolts and install a plate with an adjustable pull setting & to make the WG motor be pulled more tight and then just refastened solving the same problem for tension loss.

Please tell me this stuff makes sense?

There are many ways to make things work or do a repair but none of these are "qualified repairs" & should be considered for off road use only.

People do realize this was done by design to make it anti tuned to a degree right?
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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There are three other alternate things that can be done here & so I will just describe them.



One could weld a plate within the down-pipe to install a spring with guide bolt to hold the WG closed tighter and contained within it or drill a hole in down-pipe and weld a sleeve on it, then install a guide rod, so an external adjustable spring could be installed in same location aforementioned but can be dialed in easier from outside the down-pipe.

or

One could remove the air motor bolts and install a plate with an adjustable pull setting & to make the WG motor be pulled more tight and then just refastened solving the same problem for tension loss.

Please tell me this stuff makes sense?

There are many ways to make things work or do a repair but none of these are "qualified repairs" & should be considered for off road use only.

People do realize this was done by design to make it anti tuned or cost savings to a degree right, It just back fired even stock?
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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I would like to further point out that the later TSI turbo's allow for a tilt in place to access the WG arm from above.

This means you remove the upper exhaust bolts in car and down-pipe flange etc and tilt turbo back to access a repair of the WG air motor.
 
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Jack, just curious: did you think that the amount of wastegate value play shown in the video is a significant issue? Or is that acceptable and the real problem typically the wastegate actuator?

Thanks,

Ben
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Jack, just curious: did you think that the amount of wastegate value play shown in the video is a significant issue? Or is that acceptable and the real problem typically the wastegate actuator?

Thanks,

Ben
Well if exhaust isn't leaking out of it and I have not seen one yet that couldn't be fixed unless the turbo was just plain bad from oil seals/impeller or MOD over boost damage FOD.

My opinion from statistics I have seen and reports back that I saved people a ton of money & they didn't have in letters emails and treats that I love, but certainly don't need showing here :rolleyes:.

I am right and the play is fine in bushing & as long as the hole seals and the spring is to correct hold tension.

Now the guy selling the turbos isn't going to like this thread, but fuck em...... :popcorn:

Plenty of real money to be made on real repairs & that need to be done elsewhere right and the humble dude had his heart in the right place in video, just his brain was elsewhere that day?
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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I would like to make it very clear, that people should not call the facility to discuss or chat me up or without written approval on the clock, I am not endorsing a product here, nor am I selling this and if you have a question out of curiosity use the forum or respective thread with aid of RTFB.

If you are a shop in Portland Oregon , you should already know what you are doing. 503-544-18XX


Thank you
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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