( ) "G85" or Steering angle sensor
XMAS EVE GIFT BY amendment!
Okay.........I am sick of this G85 convoluted problem I keep seeing and it is indeed pervasive!
Often a /G85 sensor is changed and is not needed!
Before you change an alleged bad G85, with the MIL lights lit on dash and codes for out of calibration etc.
STOP THE VERIFY MECHANICALS!
With vehicle in lifted position.
Loosen up subframe bolts & be prepared to change them, they are stretch bolts, OKAY?
Break free tie jam nuts and ball joints spraying with proper penetrating fluids with intent to relax or adjust everything, OKAY?
Lower car to work height & battery charger connected as per connect the famous scan tool to DLC.
Turn ignition ON, make a backup auto-scan & not running since when running the /G85 is used for well known nefarious documented activity by legacy issues at Jokeswagen!
Save scan and all codes.....
Verify codes if a fuse, power/ground short/open or wiring issue etc. using & correct them.
Still access measuring blocks to observe /G85 in if possible before wasting time on aforementioned because it takes seconds!
Turn steering wheel and see if you can see readings left/right and or achieve a "zeroing" of zero degrees!
If you can zero out on scanner and see left and right ranges, lock steering wheel with tool to seat or improvise with tool like below & even if you dont have a rack, get one of these for your shop, dont be a schmuck!
Verify the sensor counts too in blocks by spinning wheels and logging them!
Now that /G85 is at zero degrees and steering wheel locked by aforementioned type tool, turn ignition OFF and go observe the subframe + rack points, tie rods, control arms, ball joints and uprights hanging, OKAY?
That means remove wheel hub caps and look for damage on rims too inside and out + spin wheels, look for being out of round too, OKAY?
Are you listening & reading this, invision me looking at you over the top of my glasses with laser beams , I said look at the aforementioned you idiot & observe all?
Often the entire subframe is shifted when car takes a shot to the unibody in addition to something being bent!
In many cases the subframe can be shifted or relaxed in direction to center it to /G85 using inserted bars.......do this first!
Lock down subframe with old bolts at new compensated position or centered first.
Now make compensations to ball joints and tie rods as specified in or replace obviously damaged parts using good engineering judgment.
NOTE: Before a test drive or unlocking steering wheel tool, hook up again and verify you didn't bump the zero line of /G85!
If you did you may need to start over. I check the zero line after each compensation in really screwy changes!
Go road test and perform the /G85 in parking area.
Now change one stretch bolt at a time to subframe to maintain the new learned position and torque as per ?
It should be noted that I have now saved several hundred /G85 sensors from falsely requiring replacement and indeed were diagnosed as bad at a dealer or private shop & not being needed!