Skc pin how to find it

[Rick81]

Nothing of the above worked out

 

[Crasher]

Quelle surprise, why would it? One cannot reinvent the wheel.

 

[Rick81]

Cheers for your lovely comment

 

[Crasher]

The truth can hurt

 

[Rick81]

It doesn't hurt lad just surprised by your stupid comment considering your a professional business. It's a small world kidda

 

[Ziddywerks]

Nothing of the above worked out

Please explain what you did and how you did it. Making statements like this is not helpful.

 

[Rick81]

The codes I got that I thought were pin codes were not the case. It was retrieving information like shown in VCDS such as soft coding. I'm looking into the soic 8 reader or a pin code reader of some sort that will do most of cars for the future. I did my kids Golf last year . I'm not on VCDS enough though this may change in the future as pulling codes from the ECU is a problem

(Edit) to update this post i remembered i had a Ch341a programmer that ive never been successful with . Because my old ecu is bricked ive nothing to lose. i tried putting it in bootmode so many times i gave up. i was then told there was a resistor on the back of the Me7.1.1 ecu so i removed that and tried boot mode again with no success. Anyway just now i put the ch341a programmer on the back and it appears ive been successful with an eeprom read. The file just reads ff all the way through which i think means blank

 

[Ziddywerks]

FF FF means no read at all. Note Unless you modified the CH341A programmer you will not get a good read as that programmer is setup for 5v logic out of the box. Some have a jumper pin to switch between 3.3v logic and 5v logic. Note most automotive eeproms uses 3.3v logic. Also note majority of those cheap china programmers have a fatal flaw and a nasty bug where voltage levels on data lines remain at 5V despite the programmer being set to 3.3V. Usually a physical modification of the board is necessary. No need to remove any resistor, I read these on the bench without the need to open them, then again my tools are much different than what you have as I do this type of work on the daily.

 

[Rick81]

Hi yes it's modified for 3.3v

 

[Ziddywerks]

In some cases eeprom must be removed from the board to get a good read. It's good practice to always pull eeprom from board. However again I do this type or work via obd cable on the bench with specialized tools.

 

[Rick81]

I do have a bench set up. What program do you use if you don't mind me asking.

 

[Ziddywerks]

I use a Im508 to pull immobilizer data It's a dedicated tool similar to otofix im1.

 

[Crasher]

It doesn't hurt lad just surprised by your stupid comment considering your a professional business. It's a small world kidda

Don’t take notice of anything I say after around 7pm…

 

[1SVK1]

FF FF means no read at all. Note Unless you modified the CH341A programmer you will not get a good read as that programmer is setup for 5v logic out of the box. Some have a jumper pin to switch between 3.3v logic and 5v logic. Note most automotive eeproms uses 3.3v logic. Also note majority of those cheap china programmers have a fatal flaw and a nasty bug where voltage levels on data lines remain at 5V despite the programmer being set to 3.3V. Usually a physical modification of the board is necessary. No need to remove any resistor, I read these on the bench without the need to open them, then again my tools are much different than what you have as I do this type of work on the daily.

sometimes you have to try connecting, disconnecting, connecting and reading. not always the correct contact is made with the eeprom pins

 

[Ziddywerks]

sometimes you have to try connecting, disconnecting, connecting and reading. not always the correct contact is made with the eeprom pins

I am well aware yes, but this is also the reason why it's best practice to alway remove eeprom from the board.