2013 Passat TDI engine stopped working while driving, fuel rail, system pressure, camshaft position, turbocharger position sensor

[Rossatron]

So belt is no longer trying to turn the cam, but the lobes rotate on the shaft? Just because of something to do?

No, when the belt snaps the timing goes out of sync. In the few seconds the bottom end is still spinning the valves get forced back shut - but the lobes are stationary.

The lobes are cold pressed onto the cam - no mechanical lock etc so with enough pressure they get moved out of the correct position.We are only talking as little as 1-2mm. So for example if you put a new belt on it, it wont run because although the timing marks are aligned etc the lobes aren't opening/shutting the valves at the correct time.

 

[Rossatron]

A lot of bogus about valves not needed to be replaced. In this situation you definitely need: both cams with the chasis in wich those are mounted, probably all the rocher arms, a few valves, all the sealing elements, head off and inspect the pistons. The lobes rotate after the valves meet the pistons. Easily 2 or 3 times more expensive that an used engine. Wish you luck!

I've been repairing VW diesels for 18 years.

CKRA engine (which is fitted to the OP's vehicle) uses same cam design as CAYC etc the valves will have touched the piston lightly no doubt, but it rarely bends them. The cams are sacrificial that's why the lobes are pressed on so they can get knocked around, smash the rockers and save the engine. Been like that since around 2010

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

the valves will have touched the piston lightly no doubt, but it rarely bends them.

You have no way of knowing what position the valves were in when they met the pistons. Your theory of the lobes getting knocked out of position is feasible under certain collision positions, but if for example. a valve was fully open and therefore right on the lobe nose centerline, it cannot possibly exert rotational force onto the lobe or cam... so the valve or rocker must give (it would be the rocker that snaps first due to the valves being vertical).

If all the stars were perfectly aligned, and the user is super lucky, there is a possibility that this thing could be fixed without the head coming off like you're suggesting..... however, the cost of said labor and parts would make this approach both risky, and very unfeasible financially.... so I repeat

you need a new engine!

 

[Uwe]

so I repeat

you need a new engine!

That's certainly possible, but the extent of the damage should to be evaluated before reaching such a conclusion.

-Uwe-

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

That's certainly possible, but the extent of the damage should to be evaluated before reaching such a conclusion.

-Uwe-

100% onboard with that. If this was my engine, I would NOT fix it without pulling the head.... but that's just me.

 

[oligny]

I'm finally spending time to check what was wrong with it.
I first tried to put a timing belt with everything in sync and rotate the crankshaft and it would jam at 180 degree.
There is at least one rocker and lifter broken.

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

I'm not trying to be that guy, but I did try telling you a few times.....

 

[Ziddywerks]

Proper maintenance is key on these cars. It was time for the timing belt to leave the chat. Chance of this engine being ok are slim. At the very least you would need to look inside the bores to see how bad the damage is. Because the norm is this, the more engine speed the more better damage is. If the bore walls or pistons are not damaged cylinder head pull and new valves and guides and other valve train component may get you by however. It's still a ton of work on this vehicle.d So either open up your heart and your wallet to fix or drink a bottle of vodka say a prayer and get to work.

 

[Dr Sheldon]

That's certainly possible, but the extent of the damage should to be evaluated before reaching such a conclusion.

No one thought of doing a Cylinder Leakage test ?

 

[oligny]

What's the easiest way to remove the head? I have the intake manifold removed and the vacuum pump on the side.

Is removing the 8 bolts of the exhaust manifold possible and then I just lift the head? Or is it easier to disconnect the turbo and remove both exhaust manifold and turbo still attached to the head?

No one thought of doing a Cylinder Leakage test ?

That's like doing a cylinder pressure test on a chainsaw? I would need some glow plug adapter I guess. I found this:

VEVOR Diesel Engine Compression Tester, 18 pcs Cylinder Pressure Test Tool Kit, with 0-1000 psi Gauge and Adapters

 

[Dr Sheldon]

That's like doing a cylinder pressure test on a chainsaw? I would need some glow plug adapter I guess. I found this:

Not sure why you are rattling on about chainsaws ?

VEVOR Diesel Engine Compression Tester, 18 pcs Cylinder Pressure Test Tool Kit, with 0-1000 psi Gauge and Adapters

Nope !

I suggested a Cylinder Leakage Test

No one thought of doing a Cylinder Leakage test ?

Not a Compression Test !!

You would be a technical wizard to achieve a compression test with a snapped belt. It wouldn't work.