2003 A6 BEL 2.7tt - extended cranking on warm restart NO CODES, not the CTS

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TJC5s

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I've been casually battling this for a year now, occasionally throwing parts at it to no avail.
Wife's '03 A6 2.7t 6MT
Car starts fine/right away when cold/ambient. Drive it long enough to warm up fully, park it, shop 15+min, go to restart and will not start on 1st try. I'll qualify this statement with - if you crank the starter the "normal" muscle memory amount of time it will not start. Try again and it probably will, sometimes 3rd time is a charm.
We have learned over the months that you can expect this behavior and to just hold the key in the cranking position for 3-4 seconds and it will start.
NO CODES. Car runs perfect otherwise. We've had this car 12 years, minimal drama considering...
It is not the Coolant Temp. Sensor. I have monitored/logged that and Intake Air Temp at length. It is not the Crank Position Sensor. I replaced that 1st thing last Oct. I kept the old one, which wasn't that old and have since swapped it back in, same behavior.

I have suspected a loss of fuel pressure and the fuel is just not there on restart, but that doesn't add up given that 100% of the time it's perfect on a cold start. Add to this, sometimes the car sits for days. I have swapped fuel injectors, suspecting leaky injectors that wet the cylinder enough to be too rich on warm restart - that opened a whole other side quest of bad parts that isn't worth talking about, but I'm back to exactly the way it was 11 months ago. On the bright side, I'm a fuel injector swap expert now. I have not 100% ruled them out. I'd like to unfasten and lift the rail up enough so when I cycle the fuel pump (I wired up a momentary button inspired by the test in the Bentley) I can see if any are dripping under pressure. Nice of the engineers to add those injector retaining clips ;)

Because the car is "old" and has a bit over 200k on it, I have slowly been hitting it with normal "tune up" items - spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, primary o2's...that devolved into the aforementioned fuel injectors and also changing the fuel pump.

Monitoring/logging various channels in VAG COM and all appears normal. I have watched o2's, cylinder misfires, I have had a fuel pressure gauge temporarily plumbed in - all appears normal while running. Prior to fuel pump swap, the pressure did drop off sharply on shutdown, so I added an external check valve. No change in behavior, despite meeting the Service Manual spec of holding something like 36psi after 15 min (don't quote me on the spec., the Bentley isn't in front of me). Fuel pressure gauge/check valve came out at the same time the new pump went in because the temp. fuel line I had rigged up with (hello China!) began to balloon and looked like a fire waiting to happen.

Can anyone suggest any oddball measuring blocks to monitor on warm restart or theories that might reveal the core issue? Recently another enthusiast suggested a cam position sensor, but I would think this would trigger the fault code. I literally have none unless I intentionally unplug something.

I attached a log file from a couple weeks ago where I monitored G70, G62, G42 and others I found (and probably don't apply?) in the 078-907-551-AZA.lbl file. I thought those "Start Adaptation Values" in block 104 might tell me something, but I don't know what's normal or what they are for. In the event some of my numbers seem odd, do know that I live at 9200 feet. Also, to reiterate, the car starts quickly 100% of the time from cold, runs perfect/strong always (even after hard restart).

Happy to hear anyone's theory.
Thanks!
-TJ
 
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Uwe

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I know you say you've checked it, but your description sure sounds like vapor lock caused by a rapid loss of pressure after shut-down to me. When you shut down hot, the heat from the engine will boil the fuel if pressure isn't maintained, and you'll have to crank the engine until those vapor pockets/bubbles are gone. It won't happen if you shout down cold, or even if you shut down hot and wait long enough for everything to cool before attempting to re-start. Oh, and being at 9200 feet of elevation makes it worse.

What happens if you shut down hot, wait the 15 minutes that normally causes the problem, and the cycle the key a few times without trying to start the engine? Every time you cycle the key, the fuel pump should run a for a couple of seconds.

-Uwe-
 
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davisev5225

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Definitely fuel pressure. Replace the pressure regulator (it's easy to get to on the top of the engine), then verify that your fuel pump works properly. Might need to change out the fuel pump relay while you're at it.
 
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TJC5s

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I know you say you've checked it, but your description sure sounds like vapor lock caused by a rapid loss of pressure after shut-down to me. When you shut down hot, the heat from the engine will boil the fuel if pressure isn't maintained, and you'll have to crank the engine until those vapor pockets/bubbles are gone. It won't happen if you shout down cold, or even if you shut down hot and wait long enough for everything to cool before attempting to re-start. Oh, and being at 9200 feet of elevation makes it worse.

What happens if you shut down hot, wait the 15 minutes that normally causes the problem, and the cycle the key a few times without trying to start the engine? Every time you cycle the key, the fuel pump should run a for a couple of seconds.

-Uwe-
Thanks guys -
When the car is shut down hot, it seems the longer we wait before restart the more cranking (up to 3-4 seconds) to get it to restart. So, anywhere between restart right away and 3 minutes, it'll start right back up. If it has sat 15-20min + no amount of cycling the key to re-prime the fuel will change the long cranking. I even wired in a momentary switch between the fuel pump fuse and 30 terminal so I could run the fuel pump manually before starting. This didn't change the long cranking either.

Definitely fuel pressure. Replace the pressure regulator (it's easy to get to on the top of the engine), then verify that your fuel pump works properly. Might need to change out the fuel pump relay while you're at it.
We also have a C5 S6, so I have attempted swapping fuel pump relays to eliminate that. I think the pressure regulator is the only thing I have not changed.
 
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TJC5s

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UPDATE - which is really not an update, but another item eliminated...I spent some lunch money on a new Bosch Fuel Pressure Regulator. I can check that off the list of "didn't fix the problem".
At least it was without a doubt, the easiest service item on this car I have touched, and I've been into it quite deep over the years.
 
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davisev5225

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Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Also, where did you source your "Bosch" pressure regulator? Bosch is one of the brands that gets counterfeited the most, and the counterfeits can leak into legitimate supply chains...
 
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TJC5s

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Yes, fuel filter was changed last year (2k miles ago). Pressure regulator came from local auto parts store.
 
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Dr Sheldon

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Happy to hear anyone's theory.

You have not fixed this because so far, from your own writing, you have not made one single measurement or in fact tested a component before replacing it.

Every time you touch that car, replace a component, you muddy the waters and make it harder to fix !

Why would you do that ?


Is it Petrol or Diesel ? Gdi or Manifold Injection ?
 
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davisev5225

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Is it Petrol or Diesel ? Gdi or Manifold Injection ?
If you knew anything, you'd know that the BEL 2.7L engine is a petrol gas vehicle with manifold injection. It's also infamous for its "reliability".
 
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TJC5s

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You have not fixed this because so far, from your own writing, you have not made one single measurement or in fact tested a component before replacing it.

Every time you touch that car, replace a component, you muddy the waters and make it harder to fix !

Why would you do that ?


Is it Petrol or Diesel ? Gdi or Manifold Injection ?
If you don't have anything meaningful to contribute, move on.

How sure are you that it's a genuine part not a Chinese Replacement Auto Part?
It was in a Bosch box, nothing about it appeared shoddy. The car runs no better and no worse than before.
 
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davisev5225

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Put the original pressure regulator back in place and get a fuel pressure tester. Connect it to your fuel rail and check operating pressures while you're at normal operating temperature, then shut the engine off and monitor for at least 15 minutes. Does the pressure hold or does it drop? How quickly does it drop? Does it increase at any point?
 
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Dr Sheldon

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If you don't have anything meaningful to contribute, move on.
There you go again !! I made a valid point and asked a pertinent question ?

Meaningful contribution ?
 
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TJC5s

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There you go again !! I made a valid point and asked a pertinent question ?

Meaningful contribution ?
Your "valid point" is total conjecture. I've measured and tested plenty. I've replaced common wear parts that were either very old (12+ years & 60k miles I've owned it), or showing out of spec in VAG COM. The only hail mary I sent up was the injectors. I learned that a seemingly reputable remanufacturing company out of California is a garbage reseller. DO NOT BUY FROM https://www.gbreman.com/. I went round & round with them consistently receiving units that leaked right out the side of the plastic top connector housing or units that immediately sent the cylinder misfire count to the moon. After months of the shipping-receiving-installing-failing-RMA return game, they finally relented and refunded. Unfortunately, they had my originals for the core $ from the beginning. I went elsewhere and got some injectors that worked and found myself back at square one.
A meaningful contribution would be "out of the box thinking", perhaps a suggestion based in experience with the issue at hand. Maybe you've got some intimate knowledge of the Motrionic system where some combination of components and sensors on startup behave differently once at operating temperature, "have you checked the value of MVB xxx? It could be that..."
Your pertinent question? "Is it Petrol or Diesel ? Gdi or Manifold Injection ?" You've done nothing but stroll in and kick the hornets nest. Kindly F off. After a year of dealing with this I've come here for some advanced diagnostic help not some insults from an ivory tower, gate-keeping enthusiast forum Dr.


UPDATE - Fuel pressure gauge is installed again between the hard line at the firewall and the fuel rail. Running pressure is just shy of 50psi, and when shut down pressure is held as per in the Bentley. Prior to the fuel pump replacement pressure went immediately to zero, so at least there is an improvement there. However, the issue remains.

To re-cap, none of the following have made an impact on the issue of extended cranking to restart warm engine. This behavior started in September 2024 before I replaced anything - some of these items I had in inventory as normal maintenance spares. Now it appears I've got a bunch of used-good spares.
  • spark plugs NGK 6458 PFR6Q
  • Air Filter Wix42295
  • Coolant Temp Sensor - 059919501A
  • crank sensor – 06A906433C
  • Fuel Filter Mann WK 725
  • upstream o2 sensor 058906265C
  • Seimens Fuel Injectors - 078133551BL
  • x2 new coil packs chasing misfires that were rooted in bad reman injectors.
  • Fuel Pump - 4B0906087P
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator 0280160575

Also, I neglected to include a complete autoscan from the beginning - no codes, nothing to see here.
BTW, my KEY-COM interface still works serving me well for 21 years now.

Code:
Wednesday,22,October,2025,17:30:11:19180
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.2.0
Data version: 20190930 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAULD64B63N023464   License Plate:


Chassis Type: 4B (4B - Audi A6/S6/RS6/allroad C5 (1998 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 06 08 15 16 17 18 22 34 35 36 37 45 55 56 57 65 67
          75 76 77
 
VIN: WAULD64B63N023464  
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
   Part No: 4Z7 907 551 R
   Component: U25AN34.hex LEV G  x     
   Coding: 07712
   Shop #: WSC 65728 
   VCID: D2B6C9531EA52DDFC1-515A
   WAULD64B63N023464     AUZ7Z0B2155761

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 614 517 R
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      2330 
   Coding: 06395
   Shop #: WSC 00000 
   VCID: B072A3DB70693FCF97-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 4B0-820-043-MY2.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 820 043 AQ
   Component: A6-Klimavollautomat 0208 
   VCID: E9C40EBF93338E0790-2598

No Faults Found
  or DTCs not supported by controller
  or a communication error occurred

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 4B0-959-655-AI84.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 959 655 Q
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        2001 
   Coding: 0000607
   Shop #: WSC 25167 444 00486
   VCID: BE6E8DE3EA3DD9BF15-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 4B0-920-xxx-17.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 920 981 P
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. VDO D11 
   Coding: 02264
   Shop #: WSC 00000 
   VCID: B378ACD7817F04D7EA-515A
   WAULD64B63N023464     AUZ7Z0B2155761

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks        Labels:. 4B0-962-258.clb
   Part No: 4B0 962 258 ÿ
   Component: Zentralverriegelung D37 
   Coding: 15977
   Shop #: WSC 25167 
   VCID: E5DC028F7F2BAA67B4-4F1E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr        Labels: None
   Part No: 4B0 959 760 B
   Component: Sitzmemory R1 F     0102 
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 00000 
   VCID: AC4AB7AB5C415B2FAB-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range        Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
   Part No: 4Z7 907 357
   Component: dynamische LWR       D07 
   Coding: 00050
   Shop #: WSC 02325 
   VCID: 841A3F0B9451736F03-4B64

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 035 195 J
   Component: symphony II NP2    0007  
   Coding: 00210
   Shop #: WSC 00000 
   VCID: A740488745A7787746-4EB0

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 06:19)--------------------------
 
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davisev5225

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OK, so you've basically eliminated the fueling system. Next things I would check are:
  • Do you get clean, consistent, strong spark from all of your coils/plugs? You'll have to pull the plugs and re-attach them to the coils touching a ground source, then crank the engine to check.
  • What kind of voltage are you getting from the battery during a warm crank? How about directly at the starter's terminals?
  • When the engine is running at operating temperature, what voltage are you getting from the alternator?
Also, what are your spark plug gaps set at?

There's really only (3) things you need to start/run an engine: fuel, spark, and air. You've pretty much eliminated the fuel variables, and you're obviously getting air, so the only thing left is spark or other electrical gremlins.



EDIT:

BTW, my KEY-COM interface still works serving me well for 21 years now.

😎
 
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Dr Sheldon

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I've come here for some advanced diagnostic help
In that case you have to now realise that your time with MVB's and Logging is now done. Either the MVB you need to nail is just not there or just to slow. That or you cannot see it.

You'll have to pull the plugs and re-attach them to the coils touching a ground source, then crank the engine to check.
Things like checking for a spark as below is not conclusive at ambient atmosphere. It is a half baked measure.


If I had that car I would have a 8 Channels of a Scope attached strategically making non intrusive measurements of vitals and find the fault. It is easy as that ! The engineers designers of that engine would do it that way too - there is no other way to gain a first time fix.


I've come here for some advanced diagnostic help
Yes indeed but that help is of no use to you if you do not have the tools to use that help ?

Certainly your Local Dealership will not have those tools, know what they are or know what to do with them !!



not some insults from an ivory tower, gate-keeping enthusiast forum Dr.
They are not insults - That is good valuable diagnostic direction. Your frustration is that you have no clue real clue about your engine and /or the fault you have.

Kindly F off. After a year of dealing
Perhaps you F Off - Go get some knowledge from a classroom and then spend some eye watering amounts of money on tools - More than the value of your car - And actually diagnose and fix the thing efficiently using test and measurement rather than a forum and a box of dubious spare parts.
 
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dafrazi

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I had a similar issue on an Oldsmobile I owned. It was the coolant temp sensor causing a long crank on warm starts...never had an issue on cold starts.
I had a similar issue on '01 A4 I had. I chased it for a while on the fuel side...never definitively found the cause. The issue did go away after I did some work on the intake side of the engine. I gave credit for the fix to the thorough throttle body cleaning I did while the intake manifold was off the car.
Have you checked the throttle body? Clean? TBA test good? Easy to check and "not horrible" to clean on the 2.7T.
 
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