- Joined
- Jul 9, 2024
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Mumbai, India
- VCDS Serial number
- C?ID=588950
Hello, I think this is the right subsection of the forum to ask this.
I have a VW Polo with the DSG7/DQ200 and Im planning on preemptively replacing the stock Accumulator with an upgrade kit before the housing inevitably cracks and fails and leaves me stranded somewhere. Is there a way to relieve the pressure from the accumulator via VCDS in order to safely remove it from its housing. Im not sure if disconnecting the battery and leaving it for half an hour or so will do the trick as I have received mixed feedback on whether or not this would work and I would prefer to minimize the risk if I can simply do it via VCDS because Im getting the work done at an independent garage since the VAG dealers wont do it for me, most likely because they would rather sell me a new mechatronics unit for $$$ when it inevitably fails. It just makes sense to carry my laptop and VCDS cable with me in case whatever scanner the mechanic has isnt capable of doing the job.
I have changed the mech fluid at the 50k mark after leaving the battery disconnected and I did collect close to a liter of fluid so unless there isnt any fluid that enters the accumulator, MAYBE disconnecting the battery works ?
I do have a couple of related questions :
1) My kit came with Ravenol synthetic hydraulic fluid. Can I use this or should I stick with the mineral oil that VW switched to after their original synthetic fluid which had a high sulphur content started shorting out the TCUs on the DSG ? Im assumuing that newer supposedly compatible synthetic fluids would probably have taken this into account. I cant find an MSDS for VWs original fluid to get an idea of what a high sulphur content may look like.
2) Most of the videos I have seen of people upgrading their accumulators dont seem to use a torque wrench for either the three screws that hold the base plate or the accumulator itself. I checked with the manufacturer and they said that hand tightening is fine as long as it isnt over tightened otherwise it is 15 NM for the screws and 70NM for the housing so Im unsure how anal I should be with the torque specs.
Thanks !
I have a VW Polo with the DSG7/DQ200 and Im planning on preemptively replacing the stock Accumulator with an upgrade kit before the housing inevitably cracks and fails and leaves me stranded somewhere. Is there a way to relieve the pressure from the accumulator via VCDS in order to safely remove it from its housing. Im not sure if disconnecting the battery and leaving it for half an hour or so will do the trick as I have received mixed feedback on whether or not this would work and I would prefer to minimize the risk if I can simply do it via VCDS because Im getting the work done at an independent garage since the VAG dealers wont do it for me, most likely because they would rather sell me a new mechatronics unit for $$$ when it inevitably fails. It just makes sense to carry my laptop and VCDS cable with me in case whatever scanner the mechanic has isnt capable of doing the job.
I have changed the mech fluid at the 50k mark after leaving the battery disconnected and I did collect close to a liter of fluid so unless there isnt any fluid that enters the accumulator, MAYBE disconnecting the battery works ?
I do have a couple of related questions :
1) My kit came with Ravenol synthetic hydraulic fluid. Can I use this or should I stick with the mineral oil that VW switched to after their original synthetic fluid which had a high sulphur content started shorting out the TCUs on the DSG ? Im assumuing that newer supposedly compatible synthetic fluids would probably have taken this into account. I cant find an MSDS for VWs original fluid to get an idea of what a high sulphur content may look like.
2) Most of the videos I have seen of people upgrading their accumulators dont seem to use a torque wrench for either the three screws that hold the base plate or the accumulator itself. I checked with the manufacturer and they said that hand tightening is fine as long as it isnt over tightened otherwise it is 15 NM for the screws and 70NM for the housing so Im unsure how anal I should be with the torque specs.
Thanks !
