Golf MK5 BKD cranking but doesn't start

[RZimcenco]

Hi all, new user here (long time reader).
I have owned my 2007 MK5 golf bkd engine for about 13 years and done most of the repairs myself, apart from the clutch. The car has 260k.
As the title is saying, and apologies if I posted in the wrong section, I'm not familiar with using forums, my car is cranking but doesn't start. I came home the night before, no issues, parked up and to my surprise in the morning the engine didn't start. Cranking but nothing.
So far, I've checked :
Sanned (I use a Delphy) , no fault codes.
The in tank pump brings fuel to the fuel canister.
There is fuel going to the tandem pump wjen cranking, aslo some fuel returning from the tandem pump when cranking. These were tested with the pipes removed and put in a plastig bottle, so no pressure test as I don't have a gauge (yet).
Tandem pump was replaced and 100k ago, but didn't give any signs of failure so far.
Checked visually the timming, nothing seems wrong.
Checked voltage to the cam sensor, all good. - if I disconnect and crank , it throws code.
Checked voltage to crank sensor, all good on all 3 pins, also replaced the crank sensor just in case.
If I measure the cranking RPM, i read 186-210rmp when using my battery, and 230rpm if I try to jumpstart from another car.
I tried some easystart, the engine would fire but only for as long as I spray easystart.
I'm looking into a new starter as I understand the RPM should be min 280 when cranking in order for the ecu to run the injectors, however when running on easystart the engine reaches 800-1000 rpms, should this not tell the ecu to open the injectors ?
Please if you have any other sugge I'm more than happy to test.
I know it is also possible the injectors, but would they fail over the night ? Would they mot give some signs of failure ?
Many thanks!

 

[stefdds]

Sanned (I use a Delphy) , no fault codes.

A genuine / Legitimate VCDS (RT product) is required here for support.

Ross-Tech: Support Policy

 

[Viking]

If you're using Delphi diagnostic equipment you should ask the manufacturer for technical support with their tool. This forum is owned and run by Ross Tech to provide technical support for their customers using VCDS.

 

[RZimcenco]

If you're using Delphi diagnostic equipment you should ask the manufacturer for technical support with their tool. This forum is owned and run by Ross Tech to provide technical support for their customers using VCDS.

Ok, I didn't realise I can't get any support here if not using the VCDS.
Should I delete the thread in order not to receive such replies like yours ?

 

[PetrolDave]

Should I delete the thread in order not to receive such replies like yours ?

You can't delete the thread! Policy is that all threads are left in place, maybe @Uwe will lock it?

 

[RZimcenco]

---

You can't delete the thread! Policy is that all threads are left in place, maybe @Uwe will lock it?

Thank you for the reply Dave!
Anyway, to me it doesn't matter what will happen with the thread as long as I won't get any help here...

 

[Dr Sheldon]

Sanned (I use a Delphy) , no fault codes.

I would hazard a guess that your Delphy Delphi is a counterfeit too !!

The genuine product is ££ Thousands with a monthly subscription.

 

[RZimcenco]

I would hazard a guess that your Delphy Delphi is a counterfeit too !!

The genuine product is ££ Thousands with a monthly subscription.

I would hazard a guess that your Delphy Delphi is a counterfeit too !!

The genuine product is ££ Thousands with a monthly subscription.

I can ensure you it is a copy not a genuine one.
However, I wasn't here to debate the diagnostic tool I use, but to find help.
My mistake I didn't read the rules properly, I guess it is specified somewhere there that you don't get any help if you don't own a VCDS.
If I also need to publicly apologise, I will do it, not problem

 

[Dr Sheldon]

I can ensure you it is a copy not a genuine one.

 

[smithjohnson]

Hi all, new user here (long time reader).
I have owned my 2007 MK5 golf bkd engine for about 13 years and done most of the repairs myself, apart from the clutch. The car has 260k.
As the title is saying, and apologies if I posted in the wrong section, I'm not familiar with using forums, my car is cranking but doesn't start. I came home the night before, no issues, parked up and to my surprise in the morning the engine didn't start. Cranking but nothing.
So far, I've checked :
Sanned (I use a Delphy) , no fault codes.
The in tank pump brings fuel to the fuel canister.
There is fuel going to the tandem pump wjen cranking, aslo some fuel returning from the tandem pump when cranking. These were tested with the pipes removed and put in a plastig bottle, so no pressure test as I don't have a gauge (yet).
Tandem pump was replaced and 100k ago, but didn't give any signs of failure so far.
Checked visually the timming, nothing seems wrong.
Checked voltage to the cam sensor, all good. - if I disconnect and crank , it throws code.
Checked voltage to crank sensor, all good on all 3 pins, also replaced the crank sensor just in case.
If I measure the cranking RPM, i read 186-210rmp when using my battery, and 230rpm if I try to jumpstart from another car.
I tried some easystart, the engine would fire but only for as long as I spray easystart.
I'm looking into a new starter as I understand the RPM should be min 280 when cranking in order for the ecu to run the injectors, however when running on easystart the engine reaches 800-1000 rpms, should this not tell the ecu to open the injectors ?
Please if you have any other sugge I'm more than happy to test.
I know it is also possible the injectors, but would they fail over the night ? Would they mot give some signs of failure ?
Many thanks!

Hey mate, sounds like you've done a solid bit of troubleshooting already. Cranking RPM does seem a bit low you're right, ECU usually needs around 280+ to fire the injectors. Even though it fires on easystart, that doesn’t mean the ECU is injecting fuel, just that the engine is spinning faster from combustion. Could still be a fuel delivery issue or injectors not triggering. Maybe check the injector loom under the rocker cover, they can go dodgy. Also, if you haven’t already, try doing a leak-off test on the injectors. One stuck open can cause a no-start. Keep us posted!

 

[RZimcenco]

Hey mate, sounds like you've done a solid bit of troubleshooting already. Cranking RPM does seem a bit low you're right, ECU usually needs around 280+ to fire the injectors. Even though it fires on easystart, that doesn’t mean the ECU is injecting fuel, just that the engine is spinning faster from combustion. Could still be a fuel delivery issue or injectors not triggering. Maybe check the injector loom under the rocker cover, they can go dodgy. Also, if you haven’t already, try doing a leak-off test on the injectors. One stuck open can cause a no-start. Keep us posted!

Thank you very much for your suggestion, I will try and figure out how the injector leak test is done.
I have just fitted a new starter an hour ago, the cranking RPM went 320+, but no luck in starting the engine. At least I have a new healthy starter
I'm planning to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check how much pressure the tandem pump pushes -this tandem pump is quite expensive, so initially I thought I start with the cheapest parts first,hence I replaced the crak sensor and starter which didn't help. (At 260k miles they would have needed replacing anyway).

 

[JMR]

Unplug your camshaft sensor and give it longer crank. Also your egr could be stuck and not allowing fresh air into intake. That s all the support i can offer so far ..

 

[RZimcenco]

Unplug your camshaft sensor and give it longer crank. Also your egr could be stuck and not allowing fresh air into intake. That s all the support i can offer so far ..

Thank you for the suggestion!
I've done the cam sensor unplug, I forgot to mention this in ky initial post. Doesn't start, instead it throws a code if cranking with it unplugged, so I assume it works.

 

[JMR]

Ok...plug the sensor back in , go to MVB and check your EGR numbers with it static and then crank the engine , post pictures ( it should be about 240 /250 specified ) tell us what is in the next box ( actual ) , see if the actual value flops up / down

 

[RZimcenco]

Ok...plug the sensor back in , go to MVB and check your EGR numbers with it static and then crank the engine , post pictures ( it should be about 240 /250 specified ) tell us what is in the next box ( actual ) , see if the actual value flops up / down

Apologies, this is another aspect I forgot to mention.
My car runs with the EGR valve blanked for the kast 120k miles . Also a genuine MANN HUMMEL Filter fitted on the CCV at the same time, about 120k mikes agao. Ever since the butterfly on tbe intake is perfect clean, checked it as well the other day and it is fully open, so not stuck.
I start to believe the tandem pump failed, even though no leaks outside. Perhaps it doesn't make pressure anymore. I am planning to fit some clear hose instead of the fuel line first to check if any air bubbles are going towards the pump or on the return to exclude a crack in the inlet hose between the filter and the tandem pump.
Basically my theory now is if a little split or something occured before the inlet of the tandem, the pump would have lost pressure overnight and also can't make pressure anymore to fire up the injectors and to prine itself. . Sucking air in other words. This would explain the sudden death over the night.
We'll see tomorrow when I get some clear hose. Or the pump itself failed.

 

[JMR]

You keep forgetting aspects !