Key not communicating with ODIS or VCDS - 2011 Audi A4 2.0L

[bobbyhtike]

Hello,

I have recently replaced the TCM on my 2011 Audi A4 with a used TCM and required coding. Using GEKO/ODIS I tried to complete component protection removal and immobilizer programming but could not succeed due to the software not communicating/detecting the key. I do not think it is an ODIS issue as I cannot detect it with any scanner or VCDS. Now I am trying to resolve this key issue, I have already purchased another OEM key from a locksmith, and they told me that even my initial key was OEM. I suspect the issue to have to do something with the Gateway module or Battery control module, but I wanted to see if you guys could provide any insight to help me out. Attached I have the log below.

Thanks in advanced!

VCDS LOG

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

Focus on the DLC until you get the tools to communicate with something.

 

[bobbyhtike]

Focus on the DLC until you get the tools to communicate with something.

DLC works fine because i can pull vin and pull codes. I just can't communicate with the Key. ODIS shows "?" over the key icon and does not let me go through immobilizer programming. I have already communicated the car with the software though.

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

This isn't the ODIS forum, so no clue as to why you're asking about ODIS issues.
If DLC works, where's the VCDS autoscan?

 

[Uwe]

Key not communicating with ODIS or VCDS - 2011 Audi A4 2.0L

A key doesn't communicate with ODIS or VCDS. A key communicates with the car. The scan tool just queries the car for the status of that communication.

-Uwe-

 

[Uwe]

where's the VCDS autoscan?

Looks like he hosted it at Google Drive, but did not share it publicly.

-Uwe-

 

[NEtech]

OP is maybe/probably talking about key icon on the top right screen, just there is no Ignition signal on pin 1 in OBD connector.

 

[Uwe]

OP is maybe/probably talking about key icon on the top right screen, just there is no Ignition signal on pin 1 in OBD connector.

If we could see his Auto-Scan, we would know more, right?

-Uwe-

 

[bobbyhtike]

OP is maybe/probably talking about key icon on the top right screen, just there is no Ignition signal on pin 1 in OBD connector.

Yes that is correct, I'm talking about the key icon on the top right of the screen. Do you happen to know what potential causes could create this issue?

From my own understanding it could be a result of a few things:

ODIS/interface issue (I use CarDAQ plus for odis, it should work as I program transmissions for Ford/GM with it everyday)
Battery Control / Gateway Modules (not sure on these but they are pretty cheap used from a junkyard so I can replace them to see)
Key not being OEM (Not 100% certain if mine aren't, but the locksmith told me both the keys I have were OEM based on the circuit board having serial numbers?)
OBD connector pins (I checked voltage of all pins when engine is on and off and they are all good)

I'm just wondering if anyone else have had a similar experience or can shed some additional insight on this. Thanks

 

[bobbyhtike]

If we could see his Auto-Scan, we would know more, right?

-Uwe-

Sorry, updated the sharing permissions of the Drive link.

 

[bobbyhtike]

This isn't the ODIS forum, so no clue as to why you're asking about ODIS issues.
If DLC works, where's the VCDS autoscan?

This isn't the smart*ss forum but here you are Lol

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

This isn't the smart*ss forum but here you are Lol

Also true... you'll find me on a few others as well.

 

[Uwe]

OP is maybe/probably talking about key icon on the top right screen, just there is no Ignition signal on pin 1 in OBD connector.

I don't think that's the problem. The scan (accessible at the link in post #1 shows all modules powered up and:

(Elapsed Time: 01:55, VBatt start/end: 13.0V/13.1V)

Since Vign isn't shown, it's good (I think the threshold for it to be shown is under 12.0V).

-Uwe-

 

[EuroX]

I see nothing in that log that would indicate an issue with a key. The question were the keys previously adapted to the vehicle? or are these new keys you are trying to adapt? Does this vehicle have keyless entry and push to start or does it have a slot in the dash? I highly doubt any key you purchase from a locksmith is a OEM key. Only Audi dealerships, wholesale audi website, can supply OEM keys AFAIK. In most cases Audi will not sell a uncut key. This is how it is in USA I would think this may be world wide. Normally factory keys are cut to the vin at the warehouse prior to shipping and have the vehicles CS written into them. If you are using Aftermarket keys that have never been adapted to the vehicle. First you need to read the immo data with a non factory tool. Use that data to generate a "dealer key" once that is done ODIS should see the key. Note this only applies to aftermarket keys, and factory used keys that were unlocked so they could be reused and adapted to a different vehicle. I have a strange feeling you did not get OEM factory keys but rather some good or decent looking copies.

 

[bobbyhtike]

I see nothing in that log that would indicate an issue with a key. The question were the keys previously adapted to the vehicle? or are these new keys you are trying to adapt? Does this vehicle have keyless entry and push to start or does it have a slot in the dash? I highly doubt any key you purchase from a locksmith is a OEM key. Only Audi dealerships, wholesale audi website, can supply OEM keys AFAIK. In most cases Audi will not sell a uncut key. This is how it is in USA I would think this may be world wide. Normally factory keys are cut to the vin at the warehouse prior to shipping and have the vehicles CS written into them. If you are using Aftermarket keys that have never been adapted to the vehicle. First you need to read the immo data with a non factory tool. Use that data to generate a "dealer key" once that is done ODIS should see the key. Note this only applies to aftermarket keys, and factory used keys that were unlocked so they could be reused and adapted to a different vehicle. I have a strange feeling you did not get OEM factory keys but rather some good or decent looking copies.

Thank you for the insight. I am in the US, I bought the car recently. It came with one key which I assumed was OEM. Since ODIS was not recognizing it I called a locksmith to get an OEM key, he said it was a refurbished OEM, programmed immobilizer to the car using Autel. I then asked him to show me what the difference between an OEM key and aftermarket key was, he opened the key up and showed me the circuit board of the key he sold me and another aftermarket one he had. He said the Aftermarket keys didn't have serial numbers on the board/components but the OEM ones do. I asked him to check the other key I had and he said it was OEM too.

It is the Slot-in-dash key style. My goal is to remove CP from the used TCM I put in the car and program immobilizer so I can use the gearbox. I had initially brought it to an Audi dealer and they told me that they weren't successful with programming and initially tried quoting me a new TCM, but eventually said that they could also try a new key. At that point though I was fed up and decided to swing at it myself, and I've now come across the same issue so I assume for it to be related to the key. Do you even need an OEM key or key recognition to remove CP in the first place?

 

[EuroX]

Thank you for the insight. I am in the US, I bought the car recently. It came with one key which I assumed was OEM. Since ODIS was not recognizing it I called a locksmith to get an OEM key, he said it was a refurbished OEM, programmed immobilizer to the car using Autel. I then asked him to show me what the difference between an OEM key and aftermarket key was, he opened the key up and showed me the circuit board of the key he sold me and another aftermarket one he had. He said the Aftermarket keys didn't have serial numbers on the board/components but the OEM ones do. I asked him to check the other key I had and he said it was OEM too.

It is the Slot-in-dash key style. My goal is to remove CP from the used TCM I put in the car and program immobilizer so I can use the gearbox. I had initially brought it to an Audi dealer and they told me that they weren't successful with programming and initially tried quoting me a new TCM, but eventually said that they could also try a new key. At that point though I was fed up and decided to swing at it myself, and I've now come across the same issue so I assume for it to be related to the key. Do you even need an OEM key or key recognition to remove CP in the first place?

I don't want to point fingers without having evidence. I think I need to see this pcb in order to determine if its a legit board or not. In some cases when doing AKL with autel the autel will scramble the data in the bcm essentially changing some software within the bcm where a OEM key can no longer be programmed. This is in rare cases. There is no such thing a refurbished oem. There is used keys that are unlocked that can be reused thats it. If you have please post pictures of both key and internals if possible. Good working key is needed to remove CP usually especially when replacing a part of the immobilizer system. In this vehicle its immo5 so therefore the key, bcm, ecm, tcm, and cluster are all part of the immobilizer system in the vehicle. I have adapted aftermarket keys using autel and then also used ODIS with the same keys just to check if ODIS would recognize it and readapt if needed, so if its a good working key for the vehicle that matches the FCC ID and so on it should see it. Im sure you can view this in the bcm to see if the bcm sees the key or not and so on.

 

[bobbyhtike]

I don't want to point fingers without having evidence. I think I need to see this pcb in order to determine if its a legit board or not. In some cases when doing AKL with autel the autel will scramble the data in the bcm essentially changing some software within the bcm where a OEM key can no longer be programmed. This is in rare cases. There is no such thing a refurbished oem. There is used keys that are unlocked that can be reused thats it. If you have please post pictures of both key and internals if possible. Good working key is needed to remove CP usually especially when replacing a part of the immobilizer system. In this vehicle its immo5 so therefore the key, bcm, ecm, tcm, and cluster are all part of the immobilizer system in the vehicle. I have adapted aftermarket keys using autel and then also used ODIS with the same keys just to check if ODIS would recognize it and readapt if needed, so if its a good working key for the vehicle that matches the FCC ID and so on it should see it. Im sure you can view this in the bcm to see if the bcm sees the key or not and so on.

Thank you so much for your reply, it is greatly insightful. Attached I have the boards for each key.


GOOGLE DRIVE LINK TO PCB PICTURES

 

[EuroX]

Ok In deed factory boards. However you can clearly see that they have a proximity coil on the pcb meaning most likely came out of a vehicle that had poximity push to start. Meaning if unlocked their function may or may not be compromised in terms of what dash is available. These style keys were used in a4 a5 a6 a7 a8 and q5. So the key that you have could have come from any of those vehicles. If unlocked incorrectly their function may be shit.

 

[bobbyhtike]

Ok In deed factory boards. However you can clearly see that they have a proximity coil on the pcb meaning most likely came out of a vehicle that had poximity push to start. Meaning if unlocked their function may or may not be compromised in terms of what dash is available. These style keys were used in a4 a5 a6 a7 a8 and q5. So the key that you have could have come from any of those vehicles. If unlocked incorrectly their function may be shit.

Can I still adapt these keys using ODIS?

 

[EuroX]

Can I still adapt these keys using ODIS?

If its the correct key for the vehicle by part number then yes if it was unlocked correctly. Having said that the pcb does not have a part number on it only the remote case does. But I will assume you purchased the keys with cheap china plastic housing that does not have a part number on it therefore it will be almost impossible to determine if they are correct or not. You can try but I have my doubts.