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Ok So I also looked into the fuse coils. The green one is the compressor relay. Bad coils?
Tire Change Mode greyed out Audi S7 C7
- Thread starter JasonX
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That's not the relay or "coils", that's just the socket that the relay sits in. I don't see anything wrong there.
Fix the suspension height issue - your "lowered" aftermarket change is likely why the system refuses to calibrate. Stop trying to deflect from the known issue.
I know you really don't want your "lowered" car to be the issue, because I know you really want to keep it "lowered", but you need to understand that these cars are highly engineered with complex software running in the background to make everything work. The suspension controller is refusing to calibrate because all necessary parameters are NOT reporting what it wants to see. VCDS cannot change this - it's not VCDS that's refusing to calibrate, it's the control module in your car. VCDS is simply passing the bad news through to you where you can read and interpret it. That "lowered" mod you did is also likely why you were getting sporadic errors for the last year or two - you've been sitting right on the edge of the tolerances built into the software.
Put the car back to its correct/stock ride height and you'll probably be able to calibrate it. After that, if you absolutely insist on messing up your suspension geometry again, feel free - it's your car; but when you get more errors, you now know why they keep coming back.
Fix the suspension height issue - your "lowered" aftermarket change is likely why the system refuses to calibrate. Stop trying to deflect from the known issue.
I know you really don't want your "lowered" car to be the issue, because I know you really want to keep it "lowered", but you need to understand that these cars are highly engineered with complex software running in the background to make everything work. The suspension controller is refusing to calibrate because all necessary parameters are NOT reporting what it wants to see. VCDS cannot change this - it's not VCDS that's refusing to calibrate, it's the control module in your car. VCDS is simply passing the bad news through to you where you can read and interpret it. That "lowered" mod you did is also likely why you were getting sporadic errors for the last year or two - you've been sitting right on the edge of the tolerances built into the software.
Put the car back to its correct/stock ride height and you'll probably be able to calibrate it. After that, if you absolutely insist on messing up your suspension geometry again, feel free - it's your car; but when you get more errors, you now know why they keep coming back.
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A full calibration also requires the car to be lifted with all 4 wheels off the ground at certain points. The guided procedure with ODIS requires input a few times. I’m not sure if the car also needs to be raised for only calibrating the ride height. Anyway, the acceptable values for the normal ride height are in the running gear, axles, steering section of the repair manual, and the topic @Uwe quoted is the most relevant piece of information for you.
From what I remember doing the full calibration, the engine needs to be off, power supply connected to the battery. Not entirely sure but since it is usually needed when doing vehicle geometry related things, I’d put money on the fact the parking brake needs to be disengaged and the gearbox in neutral, but feel free to try a combination of these last two to get the control unit to stop aborting the basic setting (after reading the topic that Uwe posted before and the aforementioned section of the repair manual of course).
From what I remember doing the full calibration, the engine needs to be off, power supply connected to the battery. Not entirely sure but since it is usually needed when doing vehicle geometry related things, I’d put money on the fact the parking brake needs to be disengaged and the gearbox in neutral, but feel free to try a combination of these last two to get the control unit to stop aborting the basic setting (after reading the topic that Uwe posted before and the aforementioned section of the repair manual of course).
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So I finally got the all 4 sensors replaces with stock links. AND...still nothing changed. But a new code popped up. P178E00. I just replaced the air compressor also. Here a screenshot of some measuring values I took. The valve block voltages jumps all over. Any advices?
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Where'd you source your parts, and what brand are they?
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Sensors from 1aauto and compressor from Rebuild master tech
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All the best Chinesium, and you wonder why they aren't working?
European cars demand OE parts. If it has an electrical plug, then you either need the dealer, manufacturer-branded part, or you need to do your homework and find the ACTUAL OEM brand and buy that. Anything 3rd party is likely to cause issues.