Passat B7 estate guide on how to remove electric rear hatch

Status
Not open for further replies.
   #1  

siLc

Verified VCDS User
Verified
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
2,420
Reaction score
2,027
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
VCDS Serial number
C?ID=330192
I put this under Car Repair Support as it may offer a "repair" solution to someone. If mods feel it's more appropriate under Retrofits, then feel free to move it.

On the Passat B6 and B7 estate/wagon there's the factory option of eletrically actuated rear hatch. This system is known for slamming the hatch rather harshly on closing. Also in hot weather, upon initial opening it slams back shut a bit too often. Then second attempt at opening is always successful. At least in my experience.

In my case after some 6,5 years of use after retrofitting it, the right motor containing the main control module J605 failed internally - comms to module 6D was lost, though the fuses were intact. This left me with a hatch that was slightly open because the softclose striker was left in the "open" position and closing/opening the hatch required force. Winters are quite wet here and getting water in the car isn't desireable, among other things...

If you don't fancy spending money on replacing the electric motors, the electric hatch can be removed reasonably easily. The lowdown:
  1. Remove C and D pillar upper trims. For that, removing both luggage compartment side trims is necessary. If there are net partition holders in the headliner, remove them also.
  2. Remove D pillar center trim, above the hatch opening.
  3. When pillar trims are removed, the headliner can be bent down at the back to get access to the rear lid motors. The right side motor has a red locking tab, which needs to be pulled out and then pressed in to remove the connector. The left side motor's connector has only a side tab which needs to be pressed to remove it.
  4. Remove one bolt from underneath each motor, those bolts are slightly visible.
  5. Loosen the inner nut (in relation to vehicle centerline) of both hatch hinges. Those are not visible but can be felt by the protruding studs of the hinges. The inner nuts secure the hatch motors to the hatch hinges.
  6. Now the motors can be pulled inwards (towards the vehicle centerline) and out of the vehicle. If they won't budge, pull the hatch down slightly with one hand. Not much force required. This can be done alone.
  7. Remove the luggage compartment sill cover, covering the hatch striker pin.
  8. Replace electric hatch's motorized softclose striker with regular fixed striker from a B6/B7 estate/wagon, part number 3C9827507. The striker will probably need adjustment, opening/closing the lid many times to get it right. Pay attention that the MFD actually displays the rear lid as closed - the lid may physically close but if the adjustment's off, the striker will not touch the closing sensor and MFD will say the lid's open.
  9. Reinstall luggage compartment trims in reverse order.
  10. Replace the hatch struts with ones from a regular hatch. Electric hatch struts are weaker at 460N. Regular hatch struts are stronger at 580N. 3AF827550B is a suitable original part number. As a temporary measure, the weaker struts can be used but you will have to help the hatch to open.
  11. The trunk closing button on the bottom the hatch trim can be removed and the hole covered up with a matching blank, part number 3C9867140 9B9 (black) or 3G4 (brown).
That is the mechanical part taken care of. On to the electrical part with VCDS.
  1. Remove 30A fuses for both hatch motors. The position of fuses are different between B6, B7 and LHD/RHD.
  2. Use VCDS to make the following changes:
    1. Remove address 6D from the CAN gateway installation list.
    2. Change address 46 coding. B6 and B7 codings may be different. This is an example for B7.
      1. Byte 1 - hex 90 -> 91 (bit0 0 -> 1)
      2. Byte 2 - hex 0A -> 02 (bit3 1 -> 0)
      3. On B7, if you have and want to turn off Easy Open, Byte 21 - hex 24 -> 34
My old thread on kessy retrofit can be used as a coding reference for B7 -> https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/15362/
 
  • Like
Reactions: Uwe
   #2  

Uwe

Benevolent Dictator
Administrator
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
61,060
Reaction score
41,660
Location
USA
VCDS Serial number
HC100001
I put this under Car Repair Support as it may offer a "repair" solution to someone. If mods feel it's more appropriate under Retrofits, then feel free to move it.
Moved to How-To's and Tips: where you could not have put it originally.

-Uwe-
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top