2004 Audi A8 Air Suspension help please

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BostonSlaya

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So I tried using all the settings in the passenger seat for the basic settings and holding them in each direction for 10 seconds. Unfortunately nothing changed still getting the same basic settings error. Any other ideas? Thanks
 
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BostonSlaya

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You are correct!! I decided to try again with the basic settings on the seat. I noticed the seat wasn't going as far back as my driver seat. I clicked the button again and then tried relearning it and it worked!! Thanks so much.
Could a license plate DTC keep the car from going to sleep? Or the rear footwell heater? I just ordered the footwell heater so that should be here in a few days. I replaced the led lights that where in the orate bulbs and put in the stock ones and they still work fine but I'm still getting the same DTC, any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
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Nice one on the seats, the plate light shouldn't keep the car awake as far as i am aware nor should the heater. Something will be keeping the can bus active. There was someone else that had similar issues with an 8 and it was traced back to a dodgy instrument cluster.

Try pulling its fuse after you have shut the car off then lock it up for the night and see if the lights around the gear selector go out.
 
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I will do that but the lights go out and zero battery drain when I pull the 30 amp fuse to the radio. I also have already threw a loop on the amp and radio and still won't go to sleep, yes I even pulled the fuse and recoded the car saying it didn't have them. This thing is crazy lol.
 
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I will do that but the lights go out and zero battery drain when I pull the 30 amp fuse to the radio. I also have already threw a loop on the amp and radio and still won't go to sleep, yes I even pulled the fuse and recoded the car saying it didn't have them. This thing is crazy lol.
Now that I think of it though the gas gage is very funky most times, like tonight I filled the tank and it stays at 3 quarts of a tank for awhile. Sometimes never goes to the fill marker.
 
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So if the battery drain goes away with the radio powered down thats where I would focus my attention.
 
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BostonSlaya

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So if the battery drain goes away with the radio powered down thats where I would focus my attention.
Yeah that's what I have been doing! I have been going crazy I have done the following..
I coded out the navigation and pulled the 5 amp fuse out, and the navigation and put a loop/lollipop on it. I did this because I was getting a DTC on the navigation antenna. I have also tried steps with the lollipop by coding and pulling the fuse to the satellite,amp, CD player and the fm receiver and car still doesn't go to sleep and the lights on the hazard button and by the shifter never go out.. When I pull the whole 30amp for the whole system it goes to sleep in minutes! Also I updated the MMI system to the newest they had available for my car.. Any other ideas? Only other thing I can think of is it is more then one module in the radio itself... Thanks so much for all your help btw.
 
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delboy

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You talking about fuse 5 next to the media rack that feeds the bose amp?
 
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BostonSlaya

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You talking about fuse 5 next to the media rack that feeds the bose amp?
no the 5 amp fuse for the navigation is out because it's coded out of the car. I always pull the 30amp fuse when I'm leaving the car by itself for a few hours so it doesn't drain the battery. The 30amp fuse is sound system.
 
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BostonSlaya

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You talking about fuse 5 next to the media rack that feeds the bose amp?
Ok I have an update!, I just did what you asked previous, I pulled the 5amp fuse from the instrument cluster and locked the car and with in minutes the light in the dash and shifter went to sleep.... So it seams like it is the instrument cluster problem.. My question is why would the car go to sleep with the radio fuse unplugged? Is it maybe the car really isn't going to sleep but the battery isn't drawing because the whole sound system cannot pull from it? Maybe the sound system is after th instrument cluster in the sequences? Thanks your very helpful I must say.
Also can the cluster just get repaired instead of replaced?
 
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Well if it is indeed the cluster keeping the can bus active it may indeed keep the amp switched on and it's draining the battery,

Monitor it for a week or so with pulling the cluster fuse each time and leaving the amp fuse in and see if it is indeed the cluster that's keeping it awake and causing the drain.

If it is you are looking at replacement or doing as Jack had said in another thread about wiring in a relay that when terminal 15 is off it deactivates the relay that you would wire into to power to the cluster, so it's basically turned off by the relay so the cluster can't keep the can bus active
 
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BostonSlaya

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Well if it is indeed the cluster keeping the can bus active it may indeed keep the amp switched on and it's draining the battery,

Monitor it for a week or so with pulling the cluster fuse each time and leaving the amp fuse in and see if it is indeed the cluster that's keeping it awake and causing the drain.

If it is you me looking at replacement or doing as Jack had said in another thread about wiring in a relay that when terminal 15 is off it deactivates the relay the you wiring into to power to the cluster, so it's basically turned off by the relay so the cluster can't keep the can bus active
I agree the only problem is by wiring a relay I would possibly get DTCs all over? When I did pull the cluster fuse I got DTCs for a tone of things?
 
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delboy

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The reason you got tonnes of errors is because the fuse you pulled also powers the gateway, so to be sure you actually looking at a fault with the cluster you need to unplug it leaving the gateway still active, you will get errors for the cluster being missing but everything else should behave better.
 
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BostonSlaya

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The reason you got tonnes of errors is because the fuse you pulled also powers the gateway, so to be sure you actually looking at a fault with the cluster you need to unplug it leaving the gateway still active, you will get errors for the cluster being missing but everything else should behave better.
So how do I keep it active after I pull it? Don't lock the car?
 
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delboy

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If you leave the fuse in situ but unplug the instrument cluster from the back that should tell you if its the cluster or something else on the can bus thats keeping it awake
 
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BostonSlaya

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If you leave the fuse in situ but unplug the instrument cluster from the back that should tell you if its the cluster or something else on the can bus thats keeping it awake
Oh ok lol will do
 
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BostonSlaya

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If you leave the fuse in situ but unplug the instrument cluster from the back that should tell you if its the cluster or something else on the can bus thats keeping it awake
OK I have an update I unplugged the cluster and the Car doesn't go to sleep when I pull the 5Amp fuse the car goes to sleep but battery still seams to drain.. I then decided to try something else I left the cluster plugged and 5amp fuse to cluster plugged in. I also left the 30Amp sound system fuse in and unplugged the satellite radio power plug and car went to sleep, i also pulled the 5Amp fuse for satellite radio out and car went to sleep, i then plugged all back in and unplugged the fm radio and car fell asleep lol.. my next steep was to code the car to not have the satellite radio but I'm having troubling doing so.. in the can19 install list they have digital radio, analog radio, I tried unchecking both and nothing codes it out, there is a listing for satellite tuner but thats unchecked, when i check it i then get a DTC saying that module is incorrectly coded? please help maybe tell me the best way to code the satellite radio not of can so I can trouble shot it... thanks for all the help...
 
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