Really need some help, throttle body and tuning issues!

   #81  

SaVAGeSoot

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There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing a TBA:

  • No DTC's in the Engine Controller
  • Battery voltage at least 11.5 V
  • Throttle must be at idling position (keep your foot off the gas pedal)
  • Throttle body part must not be dirty (carbonized).
  • Coolant temperature must be between 5 and 95C
  • If fault codes were cleared cycle the ignition off and back on prior to running Basic Settings.
There's also the less known......
  • wiring must not be butchered
 
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Dr Sheldon

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lmao, ive done what 034 tells me, nothing more. Butchered is a strong word
I need something strong ! You have messed with my Mental Health

 
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lakoe

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I need something strong ! You have messed with my Mental Health

What else have i "butchered" then. And did you see EuroX comment.. its what ive been explaining. I need to solve all 5 codes to run a TBA, 3 of the codes have been in my priority more because they are older and have always been here, the other 2 come off and on depending on where the wires are, etc.
 
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And i was thinking why not sell my whole APR intake and TB upgrade and just buy a 034 motorsports one, but idk if thatd even work because i still wouldnt be able to do the TBA on the 034 TB
 
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6536 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 00 [00100101] - Adaptation Not Started
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
this code (J338) is a clutch sensor unit with a 6 pin connector and i tested 2 of the fuses that are supposed to be getting 12v and they read anywhere from 00.2 - 00.4 ohms on my multimeter set to the 200 setting. so this is info from audizine with the same question so i messaged him this and ill see what he thinks of it.
 
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EuroX

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I need something strong ! You have messed with my Mental Health

I'll take your mental instability and raise you:


J338 is the throttle body itself not a clutch unit end of story.
 
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I'll take your mental instability and raise you:


J338 is the throttle body itself not a clutch unit end of story.
oh.. not sure what that guy is talking about then. this is all he said trying to help

So NAR MY13 S5 3.0T 6MT.

Date: 2024.03.19
Is the date set wrong in your car? Go to the CAR menu then SETUP then date/time. If it's wrong, fix that, because it makes the log misleading.

VBatt start/end: 11.9V/11.8V. VIgn 11.9V
That's not good. Battery is sub 12V, which always makes for questionable events. If the car sits for extended duration (I drive mine every day as it's my daily), you might need to look to have a trickle charger to keep the battery from going low while the car sits unused.

Voltage terminal 30: 11.882 V
The DTCs are showing that low voltage level as well. In one of your earlier ones, the voltage was as low as 11.2V. That's too low. But I do find it curious that the DTCs sometimes report different values for terminal voltage 30 and for battery voltage.

Comms errors all over the place. You could have voltage issues causing modules to not function correctly. You could have wiring issues. You could have a bad module trashing the comms lines. They seem intermittent or flaky, as VCDS there could interact with every module. So more likely voltage or wiring.


6516 - Throttle Valve Controller
P1545 00 [01100101] - Malfunction

6519 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
P0122 00 [10100101] - Signal too Low

6522 - Throttle Body (J338)
P1559 00 [01100000] - Fault in basic settings

6536 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 00 [00100101] - Adaptation Not Started


10935 - Neutral Gear Sensor
P15A0 00 [00100101] - Electrical Malfunction

13827 - Gear Reconition Sensor
P181B 00 [00100101] - Electrical Malfunction

16719 - Gear Reconition Sensor
P181C 00 [00100101] - Implausbile Signal


So your ECM errors are all centered around two objects, the J338 throttle valve and F36/F194/G476 clutch related sensor and switches (I assume that's what the other three are referencing, since this is a 6MT).


The J338 is a simple closed system. It has a 6-pin connector:

1 - violet/white - G187 angle sensor 1
2 - gray/yellow - 5V to angle sensors
3 - white/green - G186 motor connection 1
4 - gray/brown - G188 angle sensor 2
5 - brown/black - G186 motor connection 2
6 - brown - ground to angle sensors

So the angle sensors are basic potentiometers, reporting a voltage level between the voltages presented at 2 and 6. The sensors are inverted, so one changes from near 0 to near 5 while the other changes from near 5 to near 0, as the throttle plate is moved.

Could be the J338 is toast, or the ECM circuits for it are toast, or the wiring is toast. The J338 is a very basic electrical config; should be simple enough to test. VCDS has output tests; it could be the ECM is not able to actuate the motor.


The clutch sensor unit is also a 6-pin connector:

1 - brown - ground to chassis
2 - green/gray - F194 signal to J623 ECM
3 - blue/gray - G476 signal to J623 ECM
4 - black/blue - 12v from fuse 10 in column black on driver's end of dash
5 - violet/gray - F36 signal to J540 EPB
6 - black/red - 12v from fuse 4 in column brown on driver's end of dash

So checking both fuses would be relevant. Those fuses will only be powered with ignition on.
 
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   #89  

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And did you see EuroX comment.. its what ive been explaining. I need to solve all 5 codes to run a TBA,
I am not so sure EuroX is saying that !!

Regardless of what anyone else is saying !!

I am saying that you tackle the 2 "Throttle Body" Codes first !!

I am not so sure the Gear Recognition codes will stop the TBA ?
 
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Date: 2024.03.19
Is the date set wrong in your car? Go to the CAR menu then SETUP then date/time. If it's wrong, fix that, because it makes the log misleading.
I'm almost certain that controllers don't get their date from there.... but I've been wrong before.
 
   #91  

EuroX

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As mentioned previously all hard faults need to be resolved:

There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing a TBA:

  • No DTC's in the Engine Controller
  • Battery voltage at least 11.5 V
  • Throttle must be at idling position (keep your foot off the gas pedal)
  • Throttle body part must not be dirty (carbonized).
  • Coolant temperature must be between 5 and 95C
  • If fault codes were cleared cycle the ignition off and back on prior to running Basic Settings.
 
   #92  

Dr Sheldon

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I'm almost certain that controllers don't get their date from there.... but I've been wrong before.
Me too - I've seen dodgy dates in controllers many times yet the clock is set correct

On the other hand some have the time and date spot on in FF Data - That can only come from the Cluster, RDS Radio or GPS ??
 
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   #93  

SaVAGeSoot

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That can only come from the Cluster, RDS Radio or GPS ??
giphy.gif
 
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lakoe

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it is from my date in the car, im pretty sure. I tried running the TBA before those TB codes came up and it was solely the 3 gear sensor codes and it failed.
 
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Dr Sheldon

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I tried running the TBA before those TB codes came up and it was solely the 3 gear sensor codes and it failed.
Perhaps I have it wrong then !!

Now go fix the 3 gear sensor codes !!
 
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Perhaps I have it wrong then !!

Now go fix the 3 gear sensor codes !!
Trying haha. This message is from the other guy trying to help with those 3 codes again.


In your case, you have the CGXC engine, so if we look at the wiring diagram document for that, the B8.5 3.0T engine section, https://cardiagn.com/audi-a5-8t-wiri...cchmbcmuactub/ , we eventually come to realize the G604 is going to be our item of interest.

Another set of documents of usefulness are the SSPs, which are kind of an overview of product design as they come out. SSP 392 on the B8 A5 introduction, http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/SSP/VWU...92_Audi_A5.pdf , talked about the F4 reversing light switch, which is what your error codes sounded like. The F4 in the SSP ended up being the F208 in the wiring diagrams, and we see the F208 is connected to the J519 in the wiring diagrams. So figured it wasn't that. But then went through the correct wiring diagram for the CGXC and "oh, G604, that change they made for the facelift". So then it clicked.

The G604 is discussed on pages 32-33 of the SSP 486 on the C7 A6 release, https://www.vag-technique.fr/ext_fil...i_A6_C7_EN.pdf . Looks like I've been down this G604 thing before: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ndicator-Issue

As your error codes are about electrical malfunction and implausible signal, confirming the 5V at the plug (5V and ground are from the ECM, so ignition probably has to be on for it to be powered) and then confirming the output signal on 2 would be the things to do. The output signal is a PWM signal of varying duty cycle depending on selected gear or neutral. But don't know the base PWM frequency. Maybe a fancy meter might be able to read the duty cycle, maybe not. It's the kind of thing you'd normally test using a scope. It could be debris on the inside of the sensor, as the TSB talked about (the TSB I did find by just google searching audi and your various P codes).
 
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Trying haha. This message is from the other guy trying to help with those 3 codes again.


In your case, you have the CGXC engine, so if we look at the wiring diagram document for that, the B8.5 3.0T engine section, https://cardiagn.com/audi-a5-8t-wiri...cchmbcmuactub/ , we eventually come to realize the G604 is going to be our item of interest.

Another set of documents of usefulness are the SSPs, which are kind of an overview of product design as they come out. SSP 392 on the B8 A5 introduction, http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/SSP/VWU...92_Audi_A5.pdf , talked about the F4 reversing light switch, which is what your error codes sounded like. The F4 in the SSP ended up being the F208 in the wiring diagrams, and we see the F208 is connected to the J519 in the wiring diagrams. So figured it wasn't that. But then went through the correct wiring diagram for the CGXC and "oh, G604, that change they made for the facelift". So then it clicked.

The G604 is discussed on pages 32-33 of the SSP 486 on the C7 A6 release, https://www.vag-technique.fr/ext_fil...i_A6_C7_EN.pdf . Looks like I've been down this G604 thing before: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ndicator-Issue

As your error codes are about electrical malfunction and implausible signal, confirming the 5V at the plug (5V and ground are from the ECM, so ignition probably has to be on for it to be powered) and then confirming the output signal on 2 would be the things to do. The output signal is a PWM signal of varying duty cycle depending on selected gear or neutral. But don't know the base PWM frequency. Maybe a fancy meter might be able to read the duty cycle, maybe not. It's the kind of thing you'd normally test using a scope. It could be debris on the inside of the sensor, as the TSB talked about (the TSB I did find by just google searching audi and your various P codes).

The output signal is a PWM signal of varying duty cycle depending on selected gear or neutral. But don't know the base PWM frequency. Maybe a fancy meter might be able to read the duty cycle, maybe not. It's the kind of thing you'd normally test using a scope.
That I agree with !!

Other than that I really dont need to see what the world and his uncle have to say about your car issues.

I actually know how it works and how to fix it !!

Some of us here would have that buttoned up, fixed and out the door in a less than half a day - couple hours be fair !!
 
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That I agree with !!

Other than that I really dont need to see what the world and his uncle have to say about your car issues.

I actually know how it works and how to fix it !!

Some of us here would have that buttoned up, fixed and out the door in a less than half a day - couple hours be fair !!
You know how to fix it? Also he hasnt replied yet but i asked him if i can test the 5v and ground, etc of that plug without dropping the trans.
 
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Dr Sheldon

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You know how to fix it?
Yes !! by contrast all 5 faults you have are easily tested & diagnosed - Most of the work can be done at the Engine ECU should Component access be an issue - Of course at some point access will have to be gained - That is the reason coffee machines & apprentices were invented :facepalm::facepalm:
 
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are you able to describe how to diagnose any of these problems? Only been working on cars for a year or so..
 
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