2013 Passat TDI Low Fuel Pressure

   #21  

SaVAGeSoot

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Riddle me this.....
If HPFP went\was damaged (the original, or the eBay one, etc), where did its shrapnel go? :confused:
 
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passdattdi

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You are saying there HAS TO BE shrapnel for an HPFP pump to go? No other possible reasons, components on the pump that can make pump fail that is not related to pump's internal metal parts breaking down and sending metal parts into fuel system?
 
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What kind of failures can exist when the HPFP fails?
 
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passdattdi

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What kind of failures can exist when the HPFP fails?
Well, thought you might answer that. Before i mentioned the different used pump, you suggested my pump likely failed. But i never mentioned finding any metals, yet you implied to get new HPFP since it was the only thing left. Others who have experience similar have shared that replacmeent of pump fixed their issue, though no metals and all else was tried. In conversations with dealer and other shops, have heard the same. Given the pump is mechanical, and there is no indication of visible metals, maybe lobe, roller has, after over 130k miles and 11 years, worn to a point it is not pumping like it should; I don't know.
 
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SaVAGeSoot

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maybe lobe, roller has, after over 130k miles and 11 years, worn to a point it is not pumping like it should;
So you're suggesting that METAL parts can WEAR to have their PROFILE change as a result of MATERIAL BEING REMOVED, yet, said material simply vanishes? :confused:
 
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Which is probably why the FSM says to replace the whole system (lines, pumps, injectors, etc) when such a failure occurs. It also talks about doing flushes in the even of just simple misfuelling, etc. The pumps will grenade just from insufficient clean fuel lubricity.... do you think if there was a chance that your system was contaminated, you took sufficient steps to ensure that whatever components you replaced are not recirculating any debris through the system?
 
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I looked back really quickly.... TL;DR.... did you check pump current draw?
 
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passdattdi

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The wiring at lift pump was checked , not getting hot, no signs heating up at the plug.
 
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It would appear that you're not interested in diag at all..... I've wasted too much time already trying to lead you to water
Fuel Metering Valve - N290- , Checking
• IGNITION: OFF.
• DISCONNECT: Fuel Metering Valve - N290- harness connector.
• CHECK: Fuel Metering Valve - N290- component connector terminals 1 to 2 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 1.5 – 11 Ω (+/- 0.5 Ω @ approx. 20° C).
---------------------
• IGNITION: ON.
• CHECK: Fuel Metering Valve - N290- harness connector terminal 2 to ground for voltage.
• IGNITION: OFF.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: Battery voltage.
---------------------
REMOVE: Engine Control Module - J623 - Refer to appropriate repair manual.
• CHECK: Fuel Metering Valve - N290- harness connector terminal 1 to the Engine Control Module - J623- harness connector T60 / 60 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω).
---------------------

Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve - N276- Checking
• IGNITION: OFF.
• DISCONNECT: Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve - N276- harness connector.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve - N276- component connector terminals 1 to 2 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 1.5 – 11 Ω (+/- 0.5 Ω @ approx. 20° C).
---------------------
• IGNITION: ON.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve - N276- harness connector terminal 2 to ground for voltage.
• IGNITION: OFF.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: Battery voltage
---------------------
• REMOVE: Engine Control Module - J623- Refer to appropriate repair manual.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve - N276- harness connector terminal 1 to the Engine Control Module - J623- harness connector T60 / 45 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω).

Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247- , Checking
• IGNITION: OFF.
• DISCONNECT: Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247-harness connector.
• IGNITION: ON.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247- harness connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: About 5.0 V.
• IGNITION: OFF
---------------------
• REMOVE: Engine Control Module - J623- Refer to appropriate repair manual.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247- harness connector terminal 2 to the Engine Control Module - J623- harness connector T60 / 55 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω).
---------------------
• REMOVE: Engine Control Module - J623- Refer to appropriate repair manual.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247- harness connector terminal 1 to the Engine Control Module - J623- harness connector T60 / 56 for resistance.
• CHECK: Fuel Pressure Sensor - G247- harness connector terminal 3 to the Engine Control Module - J623- harness connector T60 / 54 for resistance.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω).
 
   #36  

passdattdi

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Yes, thank you! This I can understand. I still don't know what TL;DR means, a relay or something?
I have done all those checks, EXCEPT: when it says to remove Eng Control Module. The ECU is rivetted shut. But the n276, n290, and g247 all have the specified voltage/ohms.

Now if possible solution was to replace the ECU because its faulty, wouldn't there be other symptoms besides low fuel pressure?
 
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Apparently, I did not copy\paste this part
Test requirements
• Fuses OK.
• Battery voltage OK.
• Switch OFF all electrical and electronic accessories.
• Vehicles with automatic transmission, ensure the selector lev‐
er position is in “P”.
• Vehicles with manual transmission, ensure the shifter lever
position is in “N” with the parking brake applied.
• Coolant temperature: ≥ 80° C.
 
   #40  

passdattdi

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It doesn't say to get inside the ECU... need to unplug its connector.
The connector/s are secured with metal "lock" rivetted in place. I mean, the lock can be removed with a grinder ...
 
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