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A6/A7 (2012-Current) Active Lane Assist Retrofit.
This retrofit originally started on the AudiWorld Forums by the member IKnowHuhA6. He approached me and asked for help in attempting this retrofit. After successful completion and with his permission, I have put together this DIY for the benefit of others. This retrofit is based on A6/A7 chassis vehicles that are already factory fitted with Adaptive Cruise Control and have the 85-On Board Camera and 8E-Image Processing control modules installed. It can be fitted if Adaptive Cruise Control is not already fitted, but it will require changing of the windscreen, installation of the 85-On Board Camera, installation of the Image Processing Control Module, all necessary connectors and wiring, and then most likely will require dealer calibration. Additionally any retrofits you perform by following this guide you do so at your own risk. I assume no liability.
The system can be set in the MMI for “early” or “late” intervention. Within either setting, there is a buffer that the system sets between lane markings at which the system will not intervene. Choosing “early” just decreases the size of this buffer, but will not decrease it so much that it will keep the vehicle perfectly centered. WARNING - This system is considered a driving aide and is not advanced enough to simulate autonomous driving. If given the opportunity, the vehicle will inevitably bounce back and forth within the lane, or disable itself until your hands are placed back on the steering wheel which seems like a pretty smart driving habit to have.
Background:
In the 4G chassis, adaptive cruise control utilizes distance regulation sensors in the front grill of the vehicle as well as an on board camera in the top of the windscreen. This camera is different than the Lane Assist camera found in the A4/A5/Q5 chassis and in conjunction with the image processing control module, serves more than one purpose (Adaptive Cruise, Lane Assist, Traffic Sign Recognition - NOT USA). If the vehicle in question was factory fitted with Adaptive Cruise Control, then the camera and image processing control module which controls the Active Lane Assist is already present. Below is a picture of the on board camera needed.
Prior to 2012 the system was only a Lane Departure Warning. This previous system was not “active” and would not provide steering recommendations or interventions. It would only vibrate the steering wheel (by means of a vibration motor in the steering wheel itself) when the vehicle drifted out of its lane.
Active Lane Assist requires electromechanical power steering for the steering adjustments and steering wheel vibration. Unlike the previous generation that used a vibration motor in the steering wheel, this newer generation uses a harmonic whatchamacallit (I don’t know what its called) in the steering system to generate the vibration warning.
Parts Needed:
New Steering Column Lever Assembly - 4G8-953-502-P (Sedan with ACC and ALA)
New Steering Column Lever Assembly - 4G8-953-502-S (Avant with ACC and ALA)
Section 1 – Changing of the Steering wheel levers.
Your new steering column switches if purchased from the dealer will not come with the steering column clock spring control module (4H0 953 568). If you purchased a set of switches that came with one (ie eBay), I STRONGLY recommend you switch it out for the one on your existing turn level assembly so you can avoid recoding it or having several errors pop up onto your dash for stability control faults and steering angle faults. Trust me, this will be much easier for you in the long run and will save you a world of headaches!
Step 1 – Park vehicle on a flat surface and center your wheels and steering wheel.
Step 2 – Turn the car on only to the point of accessory power.
Step 3 – Disconnect the battery ground terminal while the vehicle is on in order to ensure a full power discharge from the airbag system.
Step 4 – Remove the Airbag from the steering wheel.
Step 5 – Remove the center bolt using a 12mm 12-point star (not torx) bit and remove the steering wheel. (Make sure you take note of the exact position of the steering wheel on the teeth of the steering column.
Step 6 – Remove the upper steering column cover.
Step 7 – Remove the lower steering column cover.
Step 8 – Disconnect the electrical connectors from the back of the switches and loosen the bolt, which holds the steering switches to the column itself.
Step 9 – Remove the steering column multi-switch assembly.
Reinstall the new steering column multi-switch with the Active Lane Assist button on the end of the turn signal lever. Installation is reverse of removal. The steering wheel bolt must be tightened to 30Nm + 90 degrees.
Section 2 – Coding the vehicle using VCDS.
Perform a scan of the vehicle and make sure modules 10, 16, 17, 44, 85 and 8E are present. 85 will not need to be coded but it does need to be present.
Step 1 – Access 10-Park/Steer Assist>07Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 1 Bit 5 "Lane Maintenance Assist(PR-7Y4/7Y5) installed".
Step 2 – Access 16-Steering Wheel>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Byte 2 Bits 6&7 change to "C0 Lane Assist with Heading Control installed".
Step 3 – Access 44-Steering Assist>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 2 Bit 0 "Lane Assist installed"
Step 4 – Access 8E-Image Processing>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Byte 1 Bits 5&6 change to "40 Lane Assist and Lane Change Assist installed (PR-7Y5)"
Step 5 – Access 17-Instruments>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 4 Bit 6 "Lane Assist Installed". After reviewing numerous scans, some vehicles have this enabled and some do not. I would test functionality in the vehicle before enabling this bit.
Step 6 – Enter the hidden (green)menu on the MMI to activate the menu system for Active Lane Assist
Step 7 – Car>Cardevicelist>Check “Lane Departure Warning”
Step 8 – Car>Carmenuoperation>Lane Departure Warning – Change from 0 to 5
Step 9 – Clear all faults and refresh the system. No errors should be present.
Section 7 – Calibrating
The really awesome thing that we found after activating the system was that calibration was not necessary. This may not be the case for everyone. My best guess is it was already completed during the end of line programming at the factory. When a vehicle is finished being assembled, all of its driver assistance system are calibrated at the same time. The system used to calibrate Adaptive Cruise Control is also part of the same system that calibrates Active Lane Assist. It would appear that because the image processing camera in the windscreen also serves purpose to the Adaptive Cruise Control feature, it must have also captured the calibration data for the Active Lane Assist system at the same time while the calibration board was in front of the car. The data had just been sitting dormant. If after retrofitting, there is a stored fault code under 8E-Image Processing that calibration is required, then a trip to the dealer will be necessary.
This retrofit originally started on the AudiWorld Forums by the member IKnowHuhA6. He approached me and asked for help in attempting this retrofit. After successful completion and with his permission, I have put together this DIY for the benefit of others. This retrofit is based on A6/A7 chassis vehicles that are already factory fitted with Adaptive Cruise Control and have the 85-On Board Camera and 8E-Image Processing control modules installed. It can be fitted if Adaptive Cruise Control is not already fitted, but it will require changing of the windscreen, installation of the 85-On Board Camera, installation of the Image Processing Control Module, all necessary connectors and wiring, and then most likely will require dealer calibration. Additionally any retrofits you perform by following this guide you do so at your own risk. I assume no liability.
The system can be set in the MMI for “early” or “late” intervention. Within either setting, there is a buffer that the system sets between lane markings at which the system will not intervene. Choosing “early” just decreases the size of this buffer, but will not decrease it so much that it will keep the vehicle perfectly centered. WARNING - This system is considered a driving aide and is not advanced enough to simulate autonomous driving. If given the opportunity, the vehicle will inevitably bounce back and forth within the lane, or disable itself until your hands are placed back on the steering wheel which seems like a pretty smart driving habit to have.
Background:
In the 4G chassis, adaptive cruise control utilizes distance regulation sensors in the front grill of the vehicle as well as an on board camera in the top of the windscreen. This camera is different than the Lane Assist camera found in the A4/A5/Q5 chassis and in conjunction with the image processing control module, serves more than one purpose (Adaptive Cruise, Lane Assist, Traffic Sign Recognition - NOT USA). If the vehicle in question was factory fitted with Adaptive Cruise Control, then the camera and image processing control module which controls the Active Lane Assist is already present. Below is a picture of the on board camera needed.
Prior to 2012 the system was only a Lane Departure Warning. This previous system was not “active” and would not provide steering recommendations or interventions. It would only vibrate the steering wheel (by means of a vibration motor in the steering wheel itself) when the vehicle drifted out of its lane.
Active Lane Assist requires electromechanical power steering for the steering adjustments and steering wheel vibration. Unlike the previous generation that used a vibration motor in the steering wheel, this newer generation uses a harmonic whatchamacallit (I don’t know what its called) in the steering system to generate the vibration warning.
Parts Needed:
New Steering Column Lever Assembly - 4G8-953-502-P (Sedan with ACC and ALA)
New Steering Column Lever Assembly - 4G8-953-502-S (Avant with ACC and ALA)
Section 1 – Changing of the Steering wheel levers.
Your new steering column switches if purchased from the dealer will not come with the steering column clock spring control module (4H0 953 568). If you purchased a set of switches that came with one (ie eBay), I STRONGLY recommend you switch it out for the one on your existing turn level assembly so you can avoid recoding it or having several errors pop up onto your dash for stability control faults and steering angle faults. Trust me, this will be much easier for you in the long run and will save you a world of headaches!
Step 1 – Park vehicle on a flat surface and center your wheels and steering wheel.
Step 2 – Turn the car on only to the point of accessory power.
Step 3 – Disconnect the battery ground terminal while the vehicle is on in order to ensure a full power discharge from the airbag system.
Step 4 – Remove the Airbag from the steering wheel.
Step 5 – Remove the center bolt using a 12mm 12-point star (not torx) bit and remove the steering wheel. (Make sure you take note of the exact position of the steering wheel on the teeth of the steering column.
Step 6 – Remove the upper steering column cover.
Step 7 – Remove the lower steering column cover.
Step 8 – Disconnect the electrical connectors from the back of the switches and loosen the bolt, which holds the steering switches to the column itself.
Step 9 – Remove the steering column multi-switch assembly.
Reinstall the new steering column multi-switch with the Active Lane Assist button on the end of the turn signal lever. Installation is reverse of removal. The steering wheel bolt must be tightened to 30Nm + 90 degrees.
Section 2 – Coding the vehicle using VCDS.
Perform a scan of the vehicle and make sure modules 10, 16, 17, 44, 85 and 8E are present. 85 will not need to be coded but it does need to be present.
Step 1 – Access 10-Park/Steer Assist>07Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 1 Bit 5 "Lane Maintenance Assist(PR-7Y4/7Y5) installed".
Step 2 – Access 16-Steering Wheel>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Byte 2 Bits 6&7 change to "C0 Lane Assist with Heading Control installed".
Step 3 – Access 44-Steering Assist>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 2 Bit 0 "Lane Assist installed"
Step 4 – Access 8E-Image Processing>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Byte 1 Bits 5&6 change to "40 Lane Assist and Lane Change Assist installed (PR-7Y5)"
Step 5 – Access 17-Instruments>07 Coding>Long Coding Helper>Enable Byte 4 Bit 6 "Lane Assist Installed". After reviewing numerous scans, some vehicles have this enabled and some do not. I would test functionality in the vehicle before enabling this bit.
Step 6 – Enter the hidden (green)menu on the MMI to activate the menu system for Active Lane Assist
Step 7 – Car>Cardevicelist>Check “Lane Departure Warning”
Step 8 – Car>Carmenuoperation>Lane Departure Warning – Change from 0 to 5
Step 9 – Clear all faults and refresh the system. No errors should be present.
Section 7 – Calibrating
The really awesome thing that we found after activating the system was that calibration was not necessary. This may not be the case for everyone. My best guess is it was already completed during the end of line programming at the factory. When a vehicle is finished being assembled, all of its driver assistance system are calibrated at the same time. The system used to calibrate Adaptive Cruise Control is also part of the same system that calibrates Active Lane Assist. It would appear that because the image processing camera in the windscreen also serves purpose to the Adaptive Cruise Control feature, it must have also captured the calibration data for the Active Lane Assist system at the same time while the calibration board was in front of the car. The data had just been sitting dormant. If after retrofitting, there is a stored fault code under 8E-Image Processing that calibration is required, then a trip to the dealer will be necessary.
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