Resolved 2015 Golf AC not working, condenser fan works when radiator commands it but not when AC commands it.

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   #61  

NZDubNurd

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also

Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 5Q0-907-530-V1.clb
1 Fault Found:
66304 - Databus
U1124 00 [009] - Additional Installations Detected
[Mehrverbau CAN]
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 168
Mileage: 155343 km
Date: 2023.09.21
Time: 06:44:33

Terminal 30 power supply: 13.7 V
Terminal 15: On
That's the fault I mentioned, where you can tick it as being installed in the CAN gateway installation list, Module 5F. It shouldn't affect your fans or AC issues, but might be worth tidying up. There is a small chance it's seeing an aftermarket module somewhere on the CAN too, that could be affecting your AC/Fan issues, but that's probably extremely unlikely.

I wonder if the first body shop ended up doing something dumb, like putting a new AC panel in and it's the wrong one?
 
   #62  

MrNomad105

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Thx for the ideas. Sorry for my tardy reply. The 2015 Golf model S includes manual AC known as the J301 module. If I were to guess, the ECM won't allow me to "run in" the compressor because the BAR is too low. However, I can manually activate the compressor via VCDS and it works. Questions: Does the VW ECM have a "registry" like Windows? If so, where are those values stored? If I can "tell it" that run in was performed, perhaps the compressor will work.

As a temp work around, I went to Plan B. The condensor fan relies upon a PWM signal to set the fan speed. I cut the fan signal wire and connected a small 3-30v signal generator to the fan signal wire. At 100hz, 50% duty cycle, with KOER or engine not running, as soon as the ECM wakes up, the fan runs. If I vary the duty cycle on the signal generator, I can vary the fan speed. I replaced the AC valve connector with a connector that has ground and 12v+ power. AC works.

Not an eloquent solution but it gives me time to figure out the right answer.

Ross Tech offers a "one repair fix" for $40 that lasts 5 days. Do you have any experience with that option?
 
   #63  

MrNomad105

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FIXED as of 3/26/24! The culprit turned out to be sloppy welding. When the G805 port on the liquid line leaked at the base, I removed the liquid line and paid a local welder to "fix it". He reattached the port but also mistakenly filled the orifice with weld so no pressure was available at the G805 pressure sensor. He never checked his work, just reinstalled the G805 sensor w a new O-ring, and told me it was ready to go. My mistake was not removing the G805 and doublechecking his work.

Based on 8 months of working on this, the AC system functions as follows. The J301 HVAC manual module (located in the dash) controls the AC by reading the high side pressure at the G805 sensor. The G805 is a "transducer??" which converts pressure into a digital number. When the J301 reads a BAR (BAR = high pressure/14.7 corrected for altitude) of more than 9 (approx), the J301 sends a request (using the CAN network) to the ECM asking the ECM to turn on the condenser fan. Because my G805 was cut off from high side pressure by excess weld, BAR remained at 2.2 no matter how high/low the high side pressure was.

The one task I chose to outsource, welding the line, wasted months chasing phantoms. The blocked orifice was truly a needle in a haystack. When I finally removed the G805 from the orifice, I noticed the Schrader valve pin was bent. That led me to the problem.

IMO, it's better charge to the AC on a VW using weight versus R134 gauges. I evacuated the system for 3-4 hours and waited 3 more hours for any leakage. Although I had R134 gauges attached and observed low & high side pressures, placing the R134 cannister on a gram scale and waiting until 500 grams went in, is the most efficient procedure. For the next hour after I completed the charge, my wife drove the car so I could observe Refrigerant Pressure, Compressor Load, Coolant Fan Activation, actual and specified, using VCDS on my laptop. System works great. Fan goes on and off depending upon the load.

Other items... amongst my many investigations I removed the compressor and tried to drain the PAG oil into a can so I could measure it. Nothing came out which suggests the oil escaped at the liquid line when the fitting leaked. I removed the condensor and flushed it. No oil came out. I blew out the open lines and evap but no oil came out. I added two oz of PAG thru the low side port on the open compressor. I rotated the compressor by hand after applying 12vdc to the compressor control solenoid so that the swash plate activated but only 1 ounce drained out. I replaced that 1 oz before reinstalling the compressor.

Comments and corrections are welcome especially how to get all of the oil out of the compressor.
 
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