Audi S5 convertible 2012 transmission problem

[Attisgarage]

Compare to the original board. But I will assume there is not solenoid there as the board is probably used in a few different configurations. Do the boards have the rubber bumper installed between the board and solenoid pins? there should be some green colored rubber bumpers. Finally why dont you post a picture of the serial number from the unit so we can determine correct finger height. Also are the 2 metal pressure tubes for the mech in the transmission? Please take pictures of inside of transmission so I can see if pressure tubes are present or not.

I forgot to mention, the green rubber bumper is present between board and solenoids, at every electrical connection points. The boards are the same shape as the original, identical, only looks cheaper made, not being original Audi, or reputable brand, rather a no name. Is the serial number on the mech unit TCU surface or where should I look for ? The 2 tubes are inside in the transmission and some cases are metal, in this case is black plastic. Likely you missed my previous post, where I answered some of the questions regarding to the fluid used before, I have photos of the inside of the transmission, the container of the fluid, what was used and what I intend to use. Please check that, I try to find a way, if I can to bring your attention to that post. I take some photo of the seral number. I know the transmission was changed for this car around 3 years ago (112000 miles) the plates not sure if ever were changed or can be changed several times ?

 

[Attisgarage]

OK mech removed and post photos. Just to point out about the fluid, when I ve put into container, it became a bit more and it s between 3-4 quart, still little compered to 7ish. The photo, correct..... doesn t do justice to it s color. It s light yellow and looks clean, very flowing and smells close to hydraulic Febi fluid, what I used to use for convertible hydraulic pump. Matched with , what I ve found in the trunk some left over fluid, which says Febi gear oil, smells and looks the same. See link, left Febi gear oil found in trunk and right Liqui Moly dual clutch gear oil 8100

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cvhNhIOamPhS9k6B9rzDkIMLf7Q9p_Zc/view?usp=sharing

Also inside looks very clean, gears look good to my knowledge, I m not a specialist, just looking at it and haven t seen any metal shaving or small particles in the pan or on the magnet. Here, some photos

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sewo-m5ACBifcjF0TF_6Em8pXxsHKBks/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UTjNxYka2AgiVoFsYAB4lgH0J4xwa2BN/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O-DpdVr8rZpABg2_Suvs6JJx_sUuunqA/view?usp=sharing

To the attention of EuroX. The Febi gear oil is not even dual clutch trans oil, the Liqui Moly is dual clutch and I purchased recently for the transmission, after doing some research, also there were 2-3 more considerable brand names.

 

[Attisgarage]

I m looking for a good link to an original Audi mech unit repair kit, which includes parts, which responsible for the original problem, slipping at R,2,4,6. I think the electrical problems, codes were due to the cheap aftermarket plates and fluid level was very low as well 3-4 quarts, plus it was used, only a Febi gear oil instead of a dual clutch oil. Any observation, recommendation is welcome. Thank you

 

[EuroX]

Serial number is laser etched on the bottom of the mech unit the side that faces down towards the pan. please take a picture of that. Also note changing the board may or may fix your issue. Sometimes a new mech is needed. However in this case it seem like fluid level was low and possibly wrong fluid was used. These 2 factors could of caused premature wear and or damage only one way to find out.

Boards : 0B5398009D
Fluid :G 052529A2

Both parts checked per provided vin.

 

[Attisgarage]

Serial number is laser etched on the bottom of the mech unit the side that faces down towards the pan. please take a picture of that. Also note changing the board may or may fix your issue. Sometimes a new mech is needed. However in this case it seem like fluid level was low and possibly wrong fluid was used. These 2 factors could of caused premature wear and or damage only one way to find out.

Boards : 0B5398009D
Fluid :G 052529A2

Both parts checked per provided vin.

Ok. Go over to the shop a bit later and take a photo of it. Definitely wrong oil and not enough was in the transmission, put cheap plates. Only thing it couldn t be driven the car, so the car was sitting and only a few times was turned on for scanning purposes. I don t think that short 5 minutes few time start of the engine caused extra damage to the transmission. For sure changing the plates may work or may not. Some who has more experience with the transmission may know better. Yeah vin provided and scan is recent. If I have good chance knowing what was before (they put cheap plates as fix R, 2,4,6, slipping) and would fix the repair kit I would do that. If a good used mech unit TCU can be removed and mine can be transferred, that would be the second option. Worst case another used good transmission is the last option.

 

[EuroX]

Any sort of TCU swap will required programming at the dealer level with ODIS and online connection to unlock module and adapt to immobilizer. 0B5 trans is known for not being reliable.

 

[Attisgarage]

Any sort of TCU swap will required programming at the dealer level with ODIS and online connection to unlock module and adapt to immobilizer. 0B5 trans is known for not being reliable. Swap mine, so I don t have to use ODIS, since that is already coded to the car. In other words the donor mech unit s TCU to be replaced with mine, which is already coded to the car. In this case ODIS can be eliminated, only I would need to use VCDS.

Swap my coded TCU to the donor mech, so no ODIS is needed, since mine is already coded to the car. In this way only I would need to use VCDS. Does it work in practice, anybody tried ? Since the valve body/solenoids etc are not protected, only the TCU of the mech as far as I understood. Checked the mech unit serial numbers and different, than what you pulled with the vin.

What are the correct finger height with the serial number being on mech unit ? And what height has to be adjusted ? I didn t get that. Thanks

OB5325025R
OB5325031M
M20R1194 R20.2
L124B073

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ph9JemS1N20OnP9yX3Up9i00R3jMEKn9/view?usp=sharing

 

[EuroX]

Correct finger height is 28mm.

 

[Attisgarage]

Correct finger height is 28mm.

Appreciate. That is quite big, almost 3 cm, which is 1.1 inch. What can be adjusted, when putting the mech unit back, and has to have the 28 mm measured from to what parts ? I checked on google couldn't t find anything related. Appreciate

 

[EuroX]

28mm is over an inch. 1 inch equals exactly 25.4mm. It needs to be exactly 28mm. There's a reason for such specs. I prefer the metric system over imperial, but that's probably because I am european. However in my honest opinion metric system is so much easier to use.

 

[Attisgarage]

28mm is over an inch. 1 inch equals exactly 25.4mm. It needs to be exactly 28mm. There's a reason for such specs. I prefer the metric system over imperial, but that's probably because I am european. However in my honest opinion metric system is so much easier to use.View attachment 2161

Now I have a better idea. My mech id number is L124B073. So, it s going to be 28 mm pulled out the top, 4th gear in center position 28 mm. What about the rest of them ? All 28 mm or the rest can be at any position ? This is not going to be easy, mech unit doesn t have to much play and the transmission side hook 4 th gear hook, how far has to be out to meet exactly with the 28 mm counterpart ? I like metric, very easy to use for myself, originally I m from Europe as well. Which country are you from ? Thanks again this info not easy to find, that s like paid membership for a shop or individual, I just like cars and do it for myself.

 

[EuroX]

28mm across all of them. I pay for access its not cheap but I have a need for it so it makes sense for me to have it. But I help others when I can.

 

[Attisgarage]

28mm across all of them. I pay for access its not cheap but I have a need for it so it makes sense for me to have it. But I help others when I can.

Ok we have transmission code scan and mech unit out. We know originally the problem was R, 2,4,6 was slipping. As a repair at a shop put some cheap aftermarket plates (2) and solenoids (3) not the right trans oil and amount either. Car could not be driven and was started only a few times for scanning.
Question, in this case what s the most affordable solution to fix the problem ?
1) New original mech unit repair kit (2 plates and 3 solenoids, with oil filters and gaskets) and dual clutch oil
2) New Mech unit
3) Used good transmission

Thanks

 

[EuroX]

Original mech unit repair kit is plates only no solenoids IIRC. Hard to say you would have to see what's the cheapest options if that's the way you want to go. It could be a pressure issue who knows or a sensor issue.

 

[Attisgarage]

Original mech unit repair kit is plates only no solenoids IIRC. Hard to say you would have to see what's the cheapest options if that's the way you want to go. It could be a pressure issue who knows or a sensor issue.

I think I go with the original repair kit, good dual clutch oil, plus gaskets and filters, fresh new adaptation and crossing fingers everything going to be well. Thanks for the help, it s not hard it doable only every new stuff takes longer making sure to take the right steps and choices.

 

[Attisgarage]

Original mech unit repair kit is plates only no solenoids IIRC. Hard to say you would have to see what's the cheapest options if that's the way you want to go. It could be a pressure issue who knows or a sensor issue.

In Europe they sell a repair kit with the 2 plates and 3 solenoids, mainly eBay members from Estonia/Latvia/ has them. Only thing is it surely compatible with the American models. Also I don t see why not, but nowadays everything is possible. Good to be sure. BTW repairing is going well. Only the finger hook 28mm seems, it dosn t really want to work to match up with the counterpart even though I have them in neutral position, but some of them has some play so, I know that 28 mm is for easer matching up the mech with the rest of the transmission. Only in practice seems not all the time works. I ve tried last night like 4 times and some hooks not positioned right. 3-4 mm is big there and hard to see inside. Just wanted to keep you posted with the porgress. Have a good day

 

[EuroX]

You could make some alignment pins from long screw to aid in the install. It crucial to get all the finger hooks in.

 

[Attisgarage]

I need to be able to check the temperature of the transmission fluid. I think I figured out one way a month ago, but didn t show or work. Is at least 2 different way to check with VCDS, so if one is not working the other does ? Also the steps of doing the adaptations with VCDS if there is a good video or step to step description, that can be helpful. Appreciate