Hi and welcome from the USA, I would post a unedited Auto-scan to start your journey here on the forum; that way any future questions can be analyzed in a accurate manor. There are links here on the forum or you can search Ross-Tech on Youtube. Once again, welcome!
Or, just click
HERE !
Also, for greater understanding and insight to review YT videos
HERE !
Hi stefdds,
Just a quick question really. Did you get to feell at home with realtively quickly from your first intro to it? Are you from a garage background or an Audi enthusiast more than anything? I just had an interesting experience with the software. A while scratching my head until I put it in DOS mode and appreciate the software as rather raw power than anything highly consumable by ordinary citizens. Several times I tried to get my to regenerate both by driving using 12233 and also idling using 27971 and got nowhere with either. The software didn't confirm I was carrying out the commands issued. I am also unaware on this next point whether there is a sequence to this command which can easily get cancelled without any warning if one perhaps uses functions like log or graph after requesting regen. I am imagining a top down sequential approach but when I noticed that other functions still appear accessible after issuing those commands I wondered whether they are functions that ought to be activated first.
Anyway, you might have read above my experience of the suddenly coming back to life. I cannot think what I did differently when requesting 12233 to regen whilst driving than the several times I had tried exactly the same thing before. All that took place was a seemingly failed chemical job at a national chain of garages that say DPFs don't need to be scrapped as long as the ash they contain can be moved and didn't turn into something resembling concrete! Well, I didn't see any clouds of ash whilst this hydrogen and chemical process was being done; just a little greyish white smoke. The garage put a litre of some chemical inside the with a kind of spray gun. Then they generated hydrogen and fed it to the engine for about 20 minutes. At the end of that I understood the would come back over the next few miles, but that didn't happen. That's where ROSS-TECH came in. So frustrated and not inclined to just believe everything written about the necessity to junk blocked DPFs, I felt I had to get closer to understanding rather than just accepting, especially as I was reading more about the role of chemicals in restoring DPFs. I watched several excellent and highy informative YouTube videos by Steven B Tuner!
https://www.youtube.com/c/StevenBTuner.
Anyway, over 200 miles after the failed Hydrogen clean, I had lost all hope of an easy and obvious solution. After getting my head round just enough to perform something useful with it, there was a big change.
@Uwe asked me to get some information about differential pressure, and it was whilst I was out driving at an enforced snai-like pace, that everything changed. Uwe must have suspected things were not all as they appeared to be. I managed to get my car to drive along the motorway and maintain >4K rpm, then pulled in for fuel. It was on the next start that everything changed; not just back to normal but feels more powerful than it was before any trouble started. Funny thing is after I had serviced my head gasket (which was a rather involved job due to the way the engine is designed), I had cleaned the whole engine bay with a power wash having blocked up oil and water channels and put tissue in the cylinders, when, after I got everything back together, a friend asked was I sure I didn't get water in the !. A bit late by that time, but needless to say the engine started without too much complaining. Maybe there was water inside. It wasn't obvious there was. I had done a lot on this service. I called it a major, includng change the plastic manifold because it had worn out. Not sure if you know the plastic manifold design? Its a design for failure because the intake flaps rotate on a metal that runs directly through the plastic without any bearings or bushes. That is essentially negligent omission by VAG. To change the manifold is not much work short of checking the head and changing the head gasket, so I decided to do that because I could service the valves and ports. I got the head polished up and cleaned, removed and cleaned the valves and refitted with new stem seals. I opened and cleaned the throttle body and the and looked inside the electronics where gears and electronics combine and cleaned all of that too. But I made a mistake there too. I think the turned off its functions for the and the throttle body didn't work either! I think there's a dark side to how engine mangement is done. Its very clever, but if you're not alert to the possibility of msyterious happenings you can spend a long time looking for something that doesn't exist. I think there's something to be said for disconnecting the battery when doing any kind of work like this and shorting the ground and positive leads together for a few minutes. Some say one only needs to turn on an electrical consumer and residual energy in capacitors is discharged and so too is the memory.
Everything was reassembled using ZX1 nano-particle oil and the daft manifold had special grease on flap rotation plus I also installed the special over-rotation limiter I discovered from watching Humble Mechanic. So when everything back together it was very deflating to find the computer had faults in almost every moduie. It appears to know when parts have been disconnected and records the failure to respond to calls from the as a component failure, despite reconnecting all the modules. Of course, I had made a mistake of letting the see the parts had been removed. Cutting down a long story I got all the codes sorted out using consumer grade tools except the codes I still had when I invested in the ROSS-TECH device. Now my has inexplicably cleared I have only one code on the engine module (which relates to implausible signal from oil sensor - and doesn't set a check engine light) and five mysterious codes that occurred after I removed my headlight with the battery and ignition still on. Silly fool me. But now I know VAG is watching our every move!
Just got these two puzzles to solve now and I feel lighter in my mind knowing I now have no fault that precludes the car passing it's annual MOT. If I had not got a result with the it would have been an automatic fail and the cost of the dealer estimate was more than the value of the car. How anyone can think there might be nearly £5K of work and parts involved is shocking. I believe this is how the manufacturer puts pressure into funding dealers and instigating sales of replacement vehicle. When one is without knowledge one is fully stuffed; there is no other authority that can inform you. Worse than that, any hunt you might go on with independent workshops is very suject to their knowledge being up to scratch, before one starts funding them. And this is how I came to invest a not insignificant sum of money in the ROSS-TECH . In the longer term, to avoid stealers and be in sufficient knowledge about faults, it seemed to be a no brainer. Even on first use and solving the problem of the has made it worth while. Now the tool can only pay me back the longer I own it and put it to good use. I am hoping to learn more useful codes to enhance my Octavia VRS but it seems there are secret codes that one must discover. In my at least, not a lot of enhancing codes are there, in spite of the car essentially being a Golf RS / Audi A4.
I find it all very curious and interesting. Now I have had some success I feel energised and more enthusiastic about . Not only the , but it appears to me there is a Company founder here who seems to have a depth of knowledge how to follow a trail and what to instigate.
Wanted to make sure I replied most fully to yours, so hope this suffices!
