2002 Jetta TDI Cluster K Line Short to Ground mystery abs controller

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kennyd880

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Heres what I know, after talking with Jeff from rosstech over the phone several times Ive determined I have a K line short in my cluster. I wish it had been that easy to diagnose to begin with!

To start with I would plug in my hex cable and it would say no response from controller on every controller. I started unplugging and removing controllers and when I got to the abs controller the VCDS said I had a short to ground. After several more attempts I found this to be constant, my test would show everything good but would not communicate with any controller. However when the Abs controller was unplugged I would get a K 1 short to ground. This happens 100 percent of the time. Any one else had this happen? Is my abs controller bad as well or just my cluster?

I removed cluster and ran the jumper wire from pin 5 to pin 25 and I could communicate with everything, even the abs controller. I don't really have a clue what to do as I have no experience working on these cars. From what I understand I have a cluster that has a shorted K line in it. Everything visual on the cluster works well, I split it in half and I don't see any burn marks or heat indications or other flaws on the circuit board. I am no professional keep in mind. From what I gather I need someone to fix my cluster or I need to buy a new one and then send the new one and my ecu to someone that has the ability to pair the codes. Please help me, if anyone on here can fix my old cluster or pair the new one with my ecu I would be very thankful and am obviously willing to pay. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
 
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Uwe

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Bosch ABS modules used in Passats and Audis of that vintage are known for shorting the K-line to ground when they fail, but the Teves ABS used in Golf/Jetta cars, not so much. If it were mine, I would probably replace the cluster before worrying about a possible ABS module failure.

-Uwe-
 
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kennyd880

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Thanks for the help!!

Do I just find the power pin and the ground pin in the cluster harness and test those or is there another way Im not thinking about?

Where do I buy a new cluster? I can't read the code out of my old cluster so if I buy a new cluster it will be useless to me unless I can find someone who has the appropriate tool to do it. Can you point me in the direction of an individual or a company that would be able to either fix my old cluster or sell me a new one that is coded to my ecu. I understand I will have to pull my ecu and send it in. I can't seem to find any one on the internet or local that knows how to do this. So again, if anyone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Post scan data after jumper of K line and all controller block 125 values for local W-CAN reports?

What happens if you simulate a termination resistor on Local W-CAN?


The dealership?

Me? New cluster in stock!

Testing for inputs, power/ground/ K line at the cluster connection first using WD in RTFB?


Stabiliant 22A?

Read this yet?

 
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kennyd880

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Thanks again for your help. I apologize in advance but Im a complete newb to all of these things and it can be a lot for me to grasp at times. Thank you for the videos and help I really do appreciate it.

I will try to watch some videos and get the scan for the w can reports today, I have honestly never had any luck getting the VCDS to scan my car, I've always had to just go to the measuring block screen. I will try harder this time tho and report back!

Do you think stabiliant will fix my problems, which connectors would you apply it to?

I called my vw dealership, 600 for a cluster and 240 for a key and they are 125 an hour for a shop rate to code the stuff. Im looking at 1000 bucks if I go there. Im not super exited about that, I think I'm better to buy a used cluster off eBay and aftermarket key and then have them code it. Any thoughts on this?

The vw service guy is sure it's not my cluster, he stated that if the K 1 line is shorted in the cluster, the car would not start or run. He thinks its a bad fuse box or that the terminals on my obd aren't connecting right. Does he have any validity to what he is thinking?

Thanks again!
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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The vw service guy is sure it's not my cluster, he stated that if the K 1 line is shorted in the cluster, the car would not start or run. He thinks its a bad fuse box or that the terminals on my obd aren't connecting right. Does he have any validity to what he is thinking?



Nope.... K line in your car is for diagnostic BUS.

If what your alledged service guy said was true it wouldn't run or the ECU immobilizer would have to be defeated, no?

Additionally the MIL would not illuminate if were the case since is on network message W-CAN right?

I can do data transfer of all data preserving all keys submitted + mileage.

The car is running because the cluster is still speaking on W-CAN to ECU but K line is blocked due to a connection or gateway issue in cluster or elsewhere.

In your car, the cluster is immobilizer/cluster/gateway in unilateral function.

Just look at the WD in RTFB!

Don't you think you should try observation of harness for connectivity, corrosion, air bag controller for being grounded in it's track and for water ingress causing a bridge?

Did you isolate all modules on K line yet to see by unplugging everything but cluster or did you measure each termination resistor yet as per RTFB?

Did you verify the ground to cluster vicariously?
 
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kennyd880

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I just wanted to follow up on this thread and post what I was able to figure out. I was able to put a jumper wire in my wiring harnesses that connect to the cluster. There are a couple in depth posts on this forum that go into depth on this and have a layout of each wire and what it does in each of the two harnesses that connect to your cluster. I won't go into depth because I'm not that smart but if you needs the details just search it on this site. Anyways, when I ran the jumper wire, I want to clarify I removed old cluster to do this. Well once this was done my VCDS read and erased all of my codes. (couldn't start car or it would have activated immobilizer) ....I think at least..... Anyways from this I was able to determine that most likely it was my cluster. Bought a used one off eBay (had to make sure the part numbers were the exact same) and my local dealer put it in and made me some new keys and off I went. Thank you for all of your help on this forum I couldn't have done it without you.
 
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HMC

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" I couldn't have done it without you. " I guess posts will turn up forever showing how much we miss Jack!
Regards HMC
 
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