VW Amarok Timing belt problems

[Zander]

I've recently done a timing belt on a 2013 VW Amarok 2L Bi-turbo (CSHA) the water pump had collapsed and jammed the belt when it had been switched off. I managed to get it turned and all timed, it hadn't skipped a tooth. I replaced the belt and water pump, everything was timed and lined up fine. It took several attempts to start but it eventually did. Once running it ran perfectly and drove fine. Stopped it and topped up the coolant and it wouldn't run. It starts up and then cuts out a second later, sometimes the glow plug light will flash sometimes not. If you keep starting it it will eventually keep running. I scanned it and it came up with this fault code.

Monday,28,December,2020,21:19:54:55732



VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64



VCDS Version: 20.12.0.1 (x64) HEX-NET CB: 0.4529.4



Data version: 20201125 DS322.1



www.Ross-Tech.com











VIN: WV1ZZZ2HZDH017067 License Plate:















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Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CFC.clb



Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 012 AA HW: 03L 907 309 AB



Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H24 5937



Software Coding: 012A4012233601080000



Work Shop Code: WSC 02739 790 50316



ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20BTD01103L906012AA 001009 (VN81)



ROD: EV_ECM20BTD01103L906012AA_001.rod



VCID: 638648DC6A8C0C9C7F-8036



1 Fault Found:







4096 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)



P0016 00 [104] - Incorrect Correlation



Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear



Freeze Frame:



Fault Status: 00000001



Fault Priority: 2



Fault Frequency: 2



Mileage: 97169 km



Date: 2087.14.24



Time: 01:51:59







Engine RPM: 906.50 /min



Normed load value: 36.5 %



Vehicle speed: 0 km/h



Coolant temperature: 39 °C



Intake air temperature: 18 °C



Ambient air pressure: 970 mbar



Voltage terminal 30: 11.560 V



Unlearning counter according OBD: 40



Engine start: start synchronization: EPM_MODE_VERIFY



Engine start: start synchronization-Test_Program_Epm st Op Mode State t UBYTE: 33











Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1

I read on various forums that if the timing belt has been done recently it may not be set up correctly and can cause this code, so redo the timing belt. I redid the timing belt and it made no difference. I cleaned the cam sensor (It had metal stuck to it) but no change. So went out and got an aftermarket cam sensor, to replace it you have to remove the timing belt... So a third time I did the timing. New cam sensor, 3 times timed and still will not start every time!! Person said that there were no issues with starting or running before the water pump collapsed. The cam sensor is the only sensor in amongst the timing belt so it couldn't have knocked the crank sensor when it collapsed. This is the only fault code in the whole pickup. Do cam sensors on this engine have to be coded? Can you read the signal from the cam sensor while cranking?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Shade]

Hello to everyone,

I have experienced a similar issue on a 2014 VW Crafter (CKTB) 2.0 TDI, also after doing a timing job including a water pump. However my crafter set a code, but starts every time. If you have a scope, this is a good reference waveform, which you can use to check your timing. So yes you can check your cam and crank signal while cranking.

 

[golfi_vend]

Inspect and Replace lower sprocket for timing belt.

 

[Zander]

Hello to everyone,

I have experienced a similar issue on a 2014 VW Crafter (CKTB) 2.0 TDI, also after doing a timing job including a water pump. However my crafter set a code, but starts every time. If you have a scope, this is a good reference waveform, which you can use to check your timing. So yes you can check your cam and crank signal while cranking.

Thanks for this info unfortunately I don’t have a scope of any kind and just have the basic cable. Thanks for the info.

Inspect and Replace lower sprocket for timing belt.

Is this the crankshaft sprocket? It has a few small dings it if from the water pump when it collapsed but none of the teeth are deformed or have sharp edges to them.

 

[golfi_vend]

Remove and inspect. Diamond or whatever coating wears out and the cutout for positioning starts to wear.

 

[Zander]

I inspected pulleys and couldn’t see any sign of wear in the coating it pulley. The pickup has only done 60 000 miles. I came across this thread https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7889/page-2. I followed the steps except I couldn’t find ENG106252. I used IDE00182 instead which gave me a value of 4.09 degrees. I’m not sure what this means. Thanks
I also logged the cam and crank RPM when it’s cranking.
Time - 3.97 Crank RPM - 164.5 Cam RPM - 0
Time - 4.70 Crank RPM - 830 Cam RPM - 200
Time - 5.45 Crank RPM - 164.5 Cam RPM - 334.8
Time - 6.20 Crank RPM - 0 Cam RPM - 166.5
Time - 6.95 Crank RPM - 0 Cam RPM - 166.5

Hope these figures might help. Some times the Crank sensor wasn’t reading for a few seconds while the Cam sensor was.

The fault isn’t always appearing every time you crank it either you can crank it 7 or 8 times before it will store a fault. I’m hoping to get a hold of a scope sometime this week to see if a good wave pattern is being created

 

[Zander]

Okay so I’ve been looking through live data in VCDS and I’ve found that when the engine cuts out it the crank value drops to 0 RPM but the cam sensor still reads the last value it read, e,g 180 RPM or 135 RPM etc. The value for the cam does return to zero if you switch the ignition off then on again. Does it keep reading the rpm even though to engine has stopped because of CANBUS just retains the value until the ignition has been cycled? Or is this a fault with the cam sensor?